spudulike
-
Posts
14,810 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Calendar
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by spudulike
-
As I said Matty - the stronger man is one who knows his limitations:001_rolleyes: Give you £40 for it:001_tt2: Think I may be seeing you at the weekend - you can finish those cookies my wife was silly enough to give you last weekend - whilst I split the cases:lol:
-
Well in my workshop it is Absolute 80s full pelt and an extra vocal in the background - whilst cutting, my saws don't need accompaniment - they sing already:lol:
-
Just calculated the difference in thermal expansion of a 16mm hole steel to aluminium. From 20*C to 150*C, the aluminium expands 47 microns, the steel 30 microns giving a differential of 17 microns - a micron being 1/1000 of a mm or one millionth of a meter. A human hair in average is 100 microns so we are talking Gnats danglies here:lol: I think I based many of my earlier views on helicoiled spark plug holes were from a Yamaha FS1E that had been helicoiled that turned sparkplugs in to what looked like a lump of coal in 500 yards - the electrodes melted in no time at all - all because the helicoil was loose and couldn't wick the heat away! It was probably the same FS1E that was blazing past the earlier mentioned BSA 250:lol: A close fitting steel insert will, in theory, act as a larger base sparkplug so any expansion and heat transfer will be very similar to the original. It will be interesting to see how it goes:thumbup:
-
If you are looking for repairs on saws, PM me - You are around 5 miles away:thumbup:
-
Life is about learning and have since realised that the wall strength of thin aluminium inserts isn't strong enough. I now have some stainless copper coated smaller ones bit too late for this saw. Time will tell if it lasts but I had a machine in that another person had inserted but come loose, put it back with this loctite and it was still solid months later:thumbup: It was a thin wall steel one!
-
Ah...thats better, something we can all understand:lol: It's a bit like the bloke that lifts the car bonnet and looks at the engine like he may magically find the answer to why his engine won't start in the engine bay:lol: I think most guys wish they hadn't asked once I get in to full flow:blushing:
-
Got the 395XP back with the spark plug insert that had blown out - it was aluminium and looks like it had split:thumbdown: First operation was to ream out the hole - forget those cheap reamers - HSS hand reamer used here to prepare the hole for the tap. Taps - a taper and bottoming tap in the picture - you start with the taper and finish with the bottoming one but in this instance - the thread was good with using the taper only so just used this tap. No need to clean the thread and make the insert looser than is necessary. Taps HSS again! Picture of the finished thread - good, clean and deep - ready to receive the insert. The insert is carbon steel so is damn hard and is held in with thread lock - high temperature thread lock:thumbup: The cylinder was warmed four times with a plumbers lamp before refitting, running, cooling and checking the plug for tightness again. This time, the repair should be a good one:thumbup:
-
Got a 372XP in with a well buggered piston. The saw has been fitted with an aftermarket kit and looks generally low hours. From the damage, it looks like the ring broke and caught on the lower exhaust port on the downward stroke that smashed the top off the crown of the piston. The strange thing was the ports and bore have zero damage. I have flushed the lower crankcase to get rid of the aluminium bits - after a bit if a scare, the bearings feel fine - a big notch in one area cleared after a flush out. A new Meteor piston has been fitted on the aftermarket kit and the exhaust port has been re-beveled to ensure the ring doesn't snag again.
-
I always love the silence you get after explaining something that gets a little technical - think "glazed eyes" comes to mind:001_rolleyes:
-
In all my experiences it was circa 20% plus a fenner handling but the Amazon deal was just 20% if paid up front and would recommend you do it ths way!
-
I believe the outcome is.....purchase through Amazon and prepay the duty and the parcel will come straight to you with no duty to be paid - it worked for me.
-
Exactly:thumbup: or is that:thumbdown: flippin VAT!
-
If you purchase from a US company, you pay their local duty in the US and then pay the VAT to the UK customs who return it to HMRC. I have just checked on their site and it does say if your UK company is VAT registered you can claim it back but if you import goods over a certain value and it is something like £20, you will be liable for import duty and handling fee - I also had this on a pair of Binocs I imported from the US. The Amazon scheme is faultless, I imported an X27 axe and paid the duty up front and it worked fine. Oh - I also had to pay the VAT on a Meteor kit that another ordered but was due to be delivered to my home address. Just speaking from experience Steve - got done once too often and is backed up by the HMRC website!
-
I thought you did pay VAT on imports from the US - EU imports are exempt! I brought a Tach in one and got his with 20% plus a tenner handling fee:thumbdown:
-
Carb accelerator pump, leaking welch plug, stuck check valve, resin in the low speed circuit, split fuel line, dirty fuel filter, bunged up gauze filter in the carb, airleak in the crank seals/manifold/impulse line.....take your pick - all will have similar symptoms!
-
Yup, damn annoying and really gets me down - shouldn't be so hard on ourselves but pride is at stake on these repairs. Just got to make sure it is 100% before it goes out again - failing twice would be REALLY bad:thumbdown:
-
You normally wind the cord on to the pulley so that on full extension, the pulley can still be rotated that little bit further clockwise - this is to ensure the spring isn't taking the impact of the starter and if done correctly, should pull the recoil rope in. A little light lubrication helps as well.
-
Thats all about kerf - thats how wide a chunk that bars take out of the wood - a narrow kerf bar and chain takes a narrower channel out so takes less power - it is however less forgiving on heavy logging and felling work. You can also get in to half skip and full skip chain where instead of having a full compliment of cutters on your chain, every other one or one in three is missing causing less drag and sapping less power - one way to get a lesser saw to pull a big bar. Not so common in the UK though!
-
I only wish I knew what I now know when I was 17 years old:001_rolleyes: The FS1E was bog apart from the baffles out and a funky glitter green paint job - think the little end was a bit rattly but it would do 50mph:thumbup: I was more four strokes in those days, had a :thumbup:400/4 which was gas flowed, high rise cams, K&Ns, clip ons and oversize pisons,,,,,oh, and an Alpha exhaust:thumbup:
-
It could be that the choke isn't sealing well or that the throttle isn't being opened enough on start up. A carb tune may help also - difficult to tell without seeing it.
-
It can be done by letting in new outlet to bypass the original one that has a deflection plate over the hole. PM me if you are interested but I am always busy!
-
It my be that the seal is Imperial and not metric?? Usually seals will be a tight fit on both the ID and OD. It is reasonable to force some of this down any cavity between the seal and the recess it fits in to - I am wondering if you have measured the crank recess and shaft diameter correctly. Some seals may be non standard sizing!
-
Semi hard - not like an epoxy - a bit like hot glue in hardness - goes off pretty quickly, fast solvents!
-
No not Time Sert - they use screw taps that are specific to their inserts - PITA in my opinion! The cheap stepped taps are pretty poor and brutal IMO - I will be using a HSS hand reamer for a much more accurate finish for the tap - the better the tapped hole, the stronger the bond. I also will use a decent high temp thread lock - it has worked damn well on a MS460 before:thumbup:
-
When the saw not running, the clutch drum should spin freely around the crankshaft, if the clutch drum binds on the crankshaft, the saw will struggle to idle and the chai will spin. Common faults will be broken clutch spring, Seized clutch bearing, twine or crap wrapped around the crankshaft end. I would pop the circlip off the end of the crankshaft, pull off the clutch, make sure the three springs are in place and complete, put a good coat of grease on the needle bearing, replace the clutch drum etc and ensure the thing spins freely. This will take you 15 mins and is pretty simple with a small screw driver and a pair of pliers. It is common for twine/string/line to get caught around the end of the crank with inbound clutches - much less common for a spring to go on a near new machine. Lets get to the bottomof the issue before condemning the machine:001_rolleyes:
