spudulike
-
Posts
14,810 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Calendar
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by spudulike
-
When you were young...did dinosaurs roam the earth:confused1:
-
I came home to a delivery tonight - strange I thought...small chainsaw in that box:confused1: Openend it up and was confronted by beer:thumbup: I really have no idea who sent it but thanks - I am hoping it isn't some sort of scam and is from someone I have helped on here! So.....who ws it? Before all of you say it was you:001_rolleyes: tell me the number of bottles and manufacturer:lol:
-
My 30 year old Suffolk Colt is OK on it - if the oil mix is a bit high, it needs a little choke all the time and you can get the air filter getting oily but it runs, it smokes, it cuts the grass:thumbup: Been doing it for 3-4 years now!
-
Good man:thumbup:
-
Bet you vote Liberal as well don't you Barrie:001_rolleyes: I guess if Peatff meant that then OK - will take it back, I would say people think of the metering diaphragm as "the diaphragm" but will find out later when he pops up again:lol: Just wanted to make sure people didn't believe the metering diaphragm did any pumping - easy mistake to make! The top part of the carb does the pumping acting like a mini fuel pump as the fuel is often lower than the carb, the bottom "Metering" section with the metering arm in it, meters out the fuel in to the carb choke/throat and in to the engine.
-
Funny that expansions are coming up - just picked up a race pipe for a KX85 - similar stroke and cc to my 066:001_rolleyes: There is an option to try it on the saw once I get it going - just need to "create" a manifold connection and supporting brackets etc.
-
The diaphragm doesn't pump, it allows the carb to hold a little fuel that is pulled in to the carb throat by the vacuum formed in the carb throat by the engine pulling air across the low speed jets and high speed check valve (venturi effect) The diaphragm also meters the correct amount of fuel to be held in this part of the carb by pushing on the metering arm and then having the fuel hold it off from letting more fuel in by breaking contact with the metering arm. It is the pumping membrane in the top of the carb that creates the pumping action and this acts against a closed needle valve that opens when the petrol is used in the metering section and the diaphragm rivet contacts the metering arm! Thought everyone knew this:001_tt2: No offence bud - just like facts to be accurate:thumbup:
-
Not converted to the dark side yet? You know you liked the 346XP - despite the inlet boot:thumbup:
-
Bet it isnt - my money is on 58cc:thumbdown:
-
Glad to hear it arrived OK, the other good bit of news is that if it goes again, I now have the 18mm inserts, taps and reamer so can do a follow if if necessary:thumbup:
-
The fact the saw fires and runs a bit on choke means that the rest of the saw is sort of OK. If the saw won't idle but will run if you give it a handful means you have issues with the low speed part of the carb, if the saw will idle but not run flat out means you have issues with the high speed part of the carb. If it won't run at all, then it is most likely fuel starvation. Has it got a separate impulse line - if so , check there isn't a hole in it. Is the gauze filter in the carb blocked? Have you popped the H&L screws out and passed some cleaner down the holes? It is always worth putting carbs that are misbehaving in an ultrasonic cleaner - it really does sort out many issues! You could just try turning the L&H screw out by 1/2 turn and try that - it may be the original setting was a tad lean and hardened diaphragm is now making it even leaner!
-
The one that came with mine was also made of cheese- the previous owner had managed to double up the width of the slot between the rails:001_rolleyes: See what the bar is like that comes with it - I can't remember what mount it uses and a new bar may cost more than the saw is worth! They are 58cc and a bit gutless.
-
Mmm:001_rolleyes: Never had it running long enough!
-
Don't try it with a 3' bar - it is the Chinese option - at least you didn't pay toomuch for it. I have had similar - the AV falls apart, the recoil pulley is made of cheese, it melts around the spark plug and the chainbrake is a bit iffy - apart from that, you have a bargain:001_rolleyes: If you want a real MS650 - got a nice one for £450:thumbup:
-
its not this one is it Chainsaw pro 650 | eBay
-
If it is a PROPER MS650 by Stihl it is an MS660 bottom end with a slightly down sleeved top end so spares are readily available. If it is a Chinese MS650 - it has been named to mislead and is poop and worth £40 against the MS650 being worth £450 - 500
-
I saw this post ages ago - always an interesting read:thumbup:
-
Theres always one:001_rolleyes: Beat me to it:001_tt2:
-
From maintanance side, they are not the easiest saw to work on if anything major needs doing. They are a bit heavy and not the fastast saw but are OKish!
-
The part you need is 503 90 12-01 if you look at this link Husqvarna New Ignition Module Coil 503901201 503 90 12 01 | eBay You will see it fits loads of machines - just look on ebay for one off a stripped machine that is original - you may have to fit a loger HT lead but who said life was easy:001_rolleyes: You do get what you pay for in life - the original Husqvarna SEM units will be of better quality than some Chinese toot.
-
You sound like me - always saying people are following what they have been taught where I try to understand what must be done and develop a process to achieve that issue.
-
I know EXACTLY what you mean - crossed my mind as well:lol: I think the and help to make it a laugh and not confrontational! Had the boxing gloves on for a minute:blushing:
-
Generally they just fail, I have seen ones that have had hard impact fail but nothing makes it blow IMO. You can sometimes reduce the gap on "non working coils" and get them working againn - done that a few times on ones that weren't working! The coil is earthed through the mounting bolts - some have earth wires and some don't.
-
Accepted - I was a bit taken aback by your "demands", my background is bicycles from childhood, motorbikes from my teens + electronics, cars in my twenties, 20 years in production on industrial printers, PLC/pneumatic assembly machines and ccd regestering hydraullic presses and associated die set tools. Much is in my DNA - my father was always very hands on, I did much of the DIY on my current house and fitted all the double glazing including two doors and two patio doors, do my own plumbing etc, fitted bathrooms etc. The important thing is I learn fast what I need to know and can see that in others on this site that have learnt from what I have picked up oer the years. I do have a certificate in Technical Drawing:blushing: Want to see it:lol:
-
"Demand" that's pretty strong. I believe that I did say that you can get this experience from training, specifically from manufacturers. There are many people that are in a profession from having an aptitude for the profession rather than having certificates. I think many have found the people with certificates lacking hence my success on here, I force no one to come to me to have their saws repaired:confused1: What's your take on guys working on their own saws or even cars etc
