spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Nice one Barrie, good time of year to kick it off, just need the " I strapped a Fireblade engine to my mower" thread now:thumbup: Hope it gains interest, I for one have to start from base camp when working on rotary mowers - I get there in the end but it just takes time!
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It is a straight repair - seized! The key is fine, have re-adjusted the coil but reckon Husqvarna have put some serious retardation on the ignition to aid starting to the point the thing fires on the downward stroke hence the backfire - perhaps it is me pulling it over a bit faster than smaller fellas:lol:
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Thanks Wes, nice one - think the flywheel has shifted - will have to pull it and find out:thumbdown:
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I thought it was an old post:lol: Good comprehensive list - amazing what we take in and do at a glance and a bit of poking around:thumbup:
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So I am not the only on that likes a little boogie round the workshop:thumbup1:
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You need a pointy bit on the end of that T bar - so it locates in to the end of the crankcase. Nice job though:thumbup:
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Had one last week - chain wouldnt spin so he took the side cover off and couldn't get it back on again:lol: Chain brake on - asked him how he got up here with his cars handbrake on:blushing: Nice guy but not a clue!
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Just got the 372XP X-torq back together again with a new piston. I am getting backfiring on starting, not had one to do before so is this a normal occurence or is the flywheel key shot - not pulled the flywheel yet to check. I am not using the decomp to start it! The coil gap is fine
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There is a part number on the photo 1123 021 0800 which makes it a 021/023/025 series. The damage will be down to the chain brake being left on and the clutch springs being a bit shagged or the idle too high. Heat gets generated and bingo - a black mess. GK may be right in it being operated with the brake on.
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Spot on advice - it will also send a tach in to spasms!
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What additions would you like to see on Arbtalk
spudulike replied to Steve Bullman's topic in General chat
Buff babes and beer...sorry Steve, it has been a long week - will get the thinking hat on:thumbup: -
I was thinking it was a different piston and cylinder between models like the earlier 365 ND 372XP. Looks like they got lazy with the design!
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Bloody predictive text......if the caps are off!
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Yes, ignition the limit caps are off.
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One turn out from fully in If the limiters have been removed. If they haven't , unless you have a tach and know how to use it then leave well alone unless a fault is suspected. If the saw has a blue limited coil, care should be taken in tuning the saw.
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It would be VERY unusual that the spring has lost it mojo - I have known them break but not fail like this. It may be that the spring needs taking out and cleaning with a craft knife - check the pulley spins round the shaft OK then when reassembled but not under tension, make sure the pulley is still free. If the pulley then becomes stiff after you have tensioned it, it is possible the centre shaft or hole in the pulley has worn - it usually makes the pulley rough and rattley in operation but generally on much larger saws. Have you put too much grease/oil on it? They like very light lubrication!
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Your original post was to convert a 365 x-torque over to being a 372 x-torque. To do this you would need the Cylinder and piston (around £325), possibly a carb and other parts! If you were looking at converting it to a 372XP, you would need a suitable piston and cylinder kit - OEM or aftermarket, the carb, inlet manifold and air filter manifold and possibly other parts. I am not sure how this can be done for near to nothing:confused1: The bottom ends appear to be the same on all these saws (the IPLs will confirm this) but the top end and fuel delivery are completely different as the x-torque separates the air from fuel/air vapour to feed the strato transfers via the piston ports!
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Yes but loads of the carb choke diameter is just feeding air in to the strato system! Have you got the 372X torque kit yet - I have one of these saws on the bench and was forced to fit an OEM piston as there were no aftermarket ones or are you fitting the earlier XP kit - if so, you will need a new inlet manifold, carb, airfilter manifold and possibly other parts:thumbdown:
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Yup, that is pretty much what we have found:thumbup:
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Looks like you have found out that the people who say to richen the saw after porting, really don't know what they are talking about. The extra flow through the carb is increasing the fuel being pulled up through the main check valve - try moving the metering arm toward the carb body by 0.5mm - it will lean it down a bit and may help - if the saw is done well it should pull 14500 - 15000rpm quite OK. It may be your saw has a worn H adjuster - my 346XP did similar but could get it up to 15,000 with the carb on 3/4 turn H screw.
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Tell it to me straight Rich - what do you think of the Hsqvarna 435?:lol:
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Just call it "Hot Babes Wrestle in Grease" That should do it:thumbup:
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They hurt my head:lol:
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The squish band is set to stop the piston clouting the top of the cylinder but also controls detonation, the theory is to keep the combusting fuel on the centre part of the piston rather than the hot outer parts which will eventually melt and pit the top of the piston through compression and igntion advance. Lowering the squish increases compression, increased compression gives more torque, a pop up and turned down base or squishband and base means even more compression and torque plus the upper port timing will stay the same if a pop up and base is done correctly. If the compression is pretty healthy then the height of the exhaust port can be raised to raise the powerband without losing valuable compression. If the height of the exhaust port is raised, the blowdown will be increased which will reduce the fuel charge in to the cylinder which will also require changing by raising the uppers. Who said it was easy:001_rolleyes:
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My Stihl Red Eye 066 - for those that have been following my progress - it was acquired after the coil went bad, the flywheel is keyed completely different from standard, I tried re-keying it and damn near blew the thing up - far too much advance. I then applied a bit of science taking pictures of the dual key flywheel, drawing lines over the keys and measuring the angle. I recently had an 064 in and managed to measure off the difference it had on the keyway to my standard flywheel and bingo - 52* as I had on the images so filed out a big key, fitted a new key in the crank and used JB weld to form a new keyway. I ended up bang on the 54* I wanted - that is standard + 2* advance - it will kick like a mule once the compression is up but should be bang on as far as ignition timing goes. Next job is to machine the base and pop up piston - there is a big fat base on this cylinder so will see if we can get 0.75mm pop up and then adjust the ports and transfers!
