spudulike

Ask Rich about his 026:001_rolleyes: Not had any issues to date and some of mine have been out there a few years now. I do thake care in making sure that certain constraints are not breeched when porting. In reality, the bottom end of the saw is pretty over specified and will stand up to the extra power.

Correct - the switch is normally open and unlike "normal" switches that are normally closed to turn something on. It is possible the wire has chaffed and is earthing - you can disconnect the blu wire from the coil and try the spark again. Saws that have been flooded can take a bit of getting going again!

I know which side I will be on:thumbup: I quite like the thought of being a Viking - I gather we have nordic DNA in our family according to my old man - had his checked for such stuff:thumbup:

Ive got this image of a large field - with stihl wielding arb types at one end and Husky wielding at the other - running at each other in to battle bit like Braveheart on two stroke:lol:

Right, you have fuel, go back and try the spark again, make sure you get a nice fat spark, get an old plug, open the electrode right out say 3-4mm and pull it over hard and see if you still get a fat spark - if you don't, chances are the coil has failed. Other than this, the saw may have seized - try taking off the muffler and looking at the piston to make sure the piston isn't scored, You could also try a compression check if you can get hold of a gauge - any self respecting car mechanic wil have one but try the Gunson one if possible. An engine needs spark fuel and compression - life isn't quite that simple but it isn't far off in theory. If you have checked all the above - heat the plug up with a plumbers lamp and fit it back and pull it over with no decomp valve, no choke but DO use the fast idle setting (choke pulled out then pushed in) If that doesn't work - send it in:thumbup:

Whose the tubby fella in the vid:001_tt2: The saw is nice though, who ported it:thumbup1:

All good, the 254 is a classic and made Husqvarnas reputation, the 371is an early version of the 372, very similar in all respects, the 346 needs no introduction - a modern day 254 and worthy successor:thumbup:

On the 441, the stalling on idle will be the low speed adjustment and not hitting high revs is probably the carb being over rich - it will be worth pullig off the muffler and inspecting the piston to make sure it is OK as low compression can also inhibit the saw to make high revs.

Most likely the last fill, sounds like it may well be coming to me, it would have been an expensive mistake to have this happen again after repair - I will get it going if it can be salvaged and the route cause found if it is an air leak etc:thumbup:

Stevie B has to walk that line between his sponsors - thats the guys whose money goes to keeping this site alive and kicking .........and us, the unwashed joe public fanatics that make it what it is through our posts. I think his position often gets lost and for one, have no issues with the way he runs the site - it is a fine line to tread!

Think he does Matty, I think it may be chainsaws at dawn on this one - just make sure it isn't round here - I will get the blame for the noise:thumbdown:

Sounds like either the policy was found to be illegal or their sales fell off a cliff, we didn't see that one coming did we:001_rolleyes: Lets say goodbye to this arrogant policy:thumbup:

Yup, thats right, may have a ported 066 ready for a bash soon:thumbup:

Thanks Martin, this is my 357XP, I was pissed off that it got beaten by 0.4 seconds on three cuts by a 560XP running a shorter bar so we took 0.5mm of the outer Piston crown and cylinder base which upped the compression to 200psi. The saw already had widened ports and modified uppers and lowers plus a loud muffler mod. Goes rather well now - [ame] [/ame]

Wondered why you had gone so quiet Martin, 2nd steam train - what is it this time?

After pulling the saw over on choke, was the spark plug wet or dry? If it is dry, even after 10-15 pulls, the issue is with the carb/fuel system, if it is wet then the fuel system is probably OK but do turn the saw upside down and pull it over so you clear any flooded and puddled fuel from the lower crankcase. The spark sounds a little strange, I recently had an ignition module fail on a 372 - pretty uncommon for these SEM units. One thing to do is to make sure the coil is damn close to the flywheel - I set this with a business card and that works for me. Try a different spark plug but it isn't often this is the issue. If you get stuck and need help, PM me.

I was surprised I didn't hear more about the 346XP - glad you like it:thumbup: On sprockets etc, you could fit a 13" bar on the 346XP and then an 8 pin rim, that will get it going a bit but make sure the oiler is turned right up, that chain will spin a fair bit faster. If the saw can pull decent revs in the cut, without bogging, the depth gauges can be lowered but bear in mind, the chain may be rougher in the cut causing more vibration. The last thing you can do is square file your chain which makes it super aggressive if done correctly. You need the correct files to do it and getting the angles right isn't easy - I have not done this before anyone asks! You can also try changing the angle of the cutters on your chain - like some do on softwoods!

Hi Charles, the 372 is a tried and tested formulae that many I have done saws for really rate

The only saw I have known backfire like this was a Stihl 028 and it scared the bejusus out of me - just wasn't expecting it! It sounds like the flywheel key has failed and the ignition is well in retardation. Barrie has listed the other possibilities, the ignition coil modules have some trick advance retard circuitry in them and it could have gone tits up. A good way to see if the flywheel has slipped is to pull out the sparkplug, allign the coil with the flywheel magnets (it will pull it in to position) and then place a screwdriver end on the top of the piston and turn the flywheel anti clockwise and see if the screwdriver rises a little before falling. There should be circa 27 - 32 degrees of advance on the flywheel position when gripped by the magnets to coil before TDC. Sorting out the flywheel key, if it is that, will be a PITA - I am doing this in a big way on an old 066 at the moment - it may be possible to re key it if you are inventive or just get a new/secondhand one.

I have PMed the OP, I should be able to offer a fix and also more importantly, do all the checks and set up to ensure it doesn't happen again straight after repair which I have seen before on other "repaired" saws but hasten to add - not mine:001_rolleyes: See what happens if you contact Husqvarna but am happy to resolve this issue and hopefully find out what caused it and for a reasonable price.

I thought they had shipped them all out to India and China - we used to have one in our tool room:thumbup:

It is possible that the L screw is set badly rich and this is affecting the richness of the H screw at the top end. Set both on 3/4s out and try that and be prepared to wind the H screw out a little more as standard is 1 turn on each. The valve you are talking about is probably the high speed check valve - some times these can be driven out and replaced and sometimes not - a good Ultrasonic Cleaner will often resolve the issues as it will cavitate clean all the crevices in the carb. It is also possible the metering arm is set too high or the needle is leaking a little - is the metering arm spring inserted correctly?

Thanks Martin, it sounds like the saw is very low hours, that will mean it may not be fully run in yet and the rough surface of the bore will cause friction plus compression will be a little down. My own experience of these smaller engine saws is that the L screw takes a fair bit of time to get spot on. Too rich or lean and it will bog in the mid range and become bad to use. Being a new saw, it may well be set a tad lean on the L screw just to meet the US EPA figures, you may find opening up the L screw (counter clockwise) 1/8th turn may restore the low speed torque. You can buy the splined adjuster for a tenner or another novel way is to fit a spade crimp connector on the end of a flat blade screwdriver and push this in to the adjuster and it should effect an adjustment. I wouldn.t try to modify anything without putting some hours on it as Tanaka kit is generally well made and should work OK. It is possible an exhaust modification may help in time but try tweaking the carb before getting silly with it. I ended up making adjustments and test cuts with a small Tanaka I had a while ago and found a sweet spot....eventually:thumbup:

Get a picture up and lets have a look at it!

Hopefully you have taken note of things like where the ring ends are and not taking the ports to within 2mm of the piston skirt edges!