spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Take the top cover off and manually press the throttle closed and see if the saw still races - the holding on to revs is a classic sign of an airleak - even correct colour on the plug isn't always a telling sign. The saw is renowned to be difficult to pull over - not as bad as a 298XP though:blushing:
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All the oil is driven out, the chain gets hot and you get a resinous build up that makes the chain tight and generally a bit rusty looking. The chain goes very slack once the oil flows again....trust me!
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Try this IPL - 272 - 268 - XP Planche éclatée, IPL
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The carb will have a number on its side, go by this - it should match one of the numbers I have given you. If it doesn't match then you will need a replacement carb or take a chance and see if it will work - most Tillosons I have worked on have had a long needle - perhaps 15mm long. Good luck
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Pull the sprocket off, take the clutch off (spin it off clockwise), remove the oil pump, pul out the oil pickup and make sure the pickup pipe and filter are clear, make sure the oilways in the oil pump are clear - carb cleaner or WD40 is good for this. Check the pinion worm drive is in good condition and the arm isn't damaged or loose on the pinion. Reassemble and it should be OK You could try flushing the tank with fuel before doing all that but it may not be effective.
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Ask Hugo at Rowena Motors - they are main dealers for Tilloson, Zama and Walbro - always very helpful and also very good value:thumbup:
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That's got to be one of the strangest requests:confused1: If you have a saw that needs a new needle in the carb, it is a Tillotson carb Tillotson HS-134A, 234A, B, 260 series - http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna%20268.pdf If you want spares - Rowena Motors - don't let the website put you off, they are top guys and you can purchase by mail and paypal request.
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Sv150 engine very hard to turn over with recoil
spudulike replied to mikerecike's topic in Maintenance help
Firstly bear in mind I know cock all about these type of mowers. Having saying that, I did have one that had a shattered bearing on the disk that carried the blade meaning the blade was engaged all the time. As Rich says - try spinning the blade and see if it is permanently engaged to the engine. If the thing is self propelled then it may be that the lever that disengages the rear wheel drive has got damaged and drive is on all the time. That's me out of suggestions - I do old cylinder mowers - much more genteel:lol: -
This is it in action - excuse the shorts:lol: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPEPuEftDiM]Ported Husqvarna 357XP and 254XP cutting Poplar - YouTube[/ame]
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Thats ultrasonics and/or heat!!
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It really has to be the whole powerhead as you need to tune the carb and make sure the fuel sytem etc is set up to deliver the fuel needed!
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You will pay import duty on purchases from Australia, best get it from the EU. These budget cleaners all come from the same factory - Bejing Ultrasonics, my first one expired and am currently trying to fix it but purchased another as I use it all the time. The digital ones are OK although I was told that the mechanical ones are simpler and more reliable.
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I have a 3 litre 120w with 100w heating - mechanical timer, simple and effective. The fluid was from Allenvale and is specialised carb cleaner.
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Widened the inlet and exhaust ports and opened up the piston windows then opened up the air filter union:thumbup:
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That looks like one of the ones Stubby has fitted to his 390XP and 372XP, damn loud, the neighbours loved it:001_rolleyes:
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http://www.arboristsite.com - over the water:001_rolleyes:
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not good for customer satisfaction:lol:
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If you look at many inlet manifolds, they are dimpled to cause a good mix of fuel and air through turbulence. I don't personally piss around with polishing, there is a limit to how much you can do without getting fanatical and obsessive about it shaving a tenth of a second off a cut - I have ben there:001_rolleyes: Obtaining more revs and torque and getting 80% of the 100% that is ever available is what it is about - leave the racers to chase the last 20%. Saying that, I am starting to think about an old 066 I have and want to make a heavyweight racer:blushing:
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Leave it on the 12", the 335 and 338 like to hit decent revs before hitting the wood- similar to the MS201 in this respect and the smaller bar will help it to maintain revs in the cut. That's my opinion for what it is worth!
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There is much that can be done on a 254XP, the design leaves much on the table. I have read one book that does clarify a few facts that I had already heard from others and does give an interesting insight to two stroke tuning in a very indirect way but if you want to do it, learn what the constriants are and work within them. The 254XP I did was scarily quick and was one of the few saws that took me by surprise when I fired it up after porting:thumbup:
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First thing to check is that with the throttle closed, the throttle linkage isn't getting held open at all. You should be able the squeeze the throttle slightly before the throttle arm on the carb starts to move. You could start the saw and then manually push the throttle linkage close to see if you can get the revs to die. If this doesn't work it sounds like a bad air leak, to go this quickly, it sounds like an impulse line or inlet manifold split but could be a possible disintegrated seal. Don't run it - get it checked out now as lean running may seize the saw if run flat out:thumbdown:
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Nice load of nipples Barrie:lol: Keep mine for the gearboxes on hedge cutters and long reach heads:thumbup:
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and it is ERECT:blushing:
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Found this in the workshop, was wondering if Barrie can tell me what it is:blushing:
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There he goes - on about nipples again:lol:
