spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Pinions can look in good shape but still not work - closely inspect and make sure the tips of the pinion are not rounded and also check that the thread runs uninterupted - I had one once that was distorted and formed a loop on to the next thread rather than forming a continous spiral - hope that makes sense. The pinion should sit on the crank shaft and should turn the oiler in this position - it is easy to overlook a bit of wear. Other common issues are a gunged up pick up filter and also a plugged pump.
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Yes....these young bucks:001_rolleyes:
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Barrie - you are worthy to be on my thread:thumbup: Well said and spot blinking on me old mucker:thumbup1:
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Small marks/scratches are not an issue - look on my "what's on your bench" thread, plenty of seized pistons on there - the sort of look you don't want to see is the look that someone has attacked the piston with a course file - with black carbon embedded in it! If unsure, post a pic:thumbup:
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dealing with rude/wrong customers
spudulike replied to onyx landscaping/fencing's topic in General chat
Simple - put the price up and enjoy a drink at their expense:thumbup: Fortunately, I have found the large majority of customers have been 100% fine and always treat others with respect and honesty and tend to be treated likewise:thumbup: -
As far as piston damage goes, both skirt and ring will reduce compression but the rings will reduce it considerably more. You are looking for vertical lines on the exhaust side of the piston. If it looks like wet smooth aluminium, all is probably fine. I usually salvage the OEM cylinder and fit a Meteor piston and have a very high success rate:thumbup:
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Look at the piston after removing the muffler, sounds as though it may have nipped up. Other than that, perhaps the carb needs ultrasonically cleaning.
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I think I have said all there is to be said, the MS171 and all its similar models are a bit restrictive in their design - the simple way is too open up the muffler and leave it at that. For the more inclined, the inlet and exhaust ports may be opened up. The next stage is normally a pop up piston but as you can't turn the piston AND cylinder down, you are stuck with modifying the piston or seeing if another one will fit and can be modified in to a pop up!
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It could be a number of things but from personal experience have had issues with the carbs on 029/039/MS390s. A deep ultasonic clean has resolved the issues I had.
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Been fixing up a couple of saws in my collection for sale very shortly - the MS650 is a nice runner and just needs a new side cover and spikes. Nearly finished a MS200T, pulls nice compression and should be ready at the weekend - PM me if you are interested in either saw:thumbup:
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The clamshell design of the engine cuts out a few options on upping the compression. Sure, there are things that can be done but start getting a damn sight more involved. If doing the work yourself then go ahead - it is all a learning curve but if geting others to do it, I think the gains won't be that cost effective. The comment on the clamshell design is based on the fact you can't turn the cylinder down because the cylinder base forms the upper part of the crankcase - there are always other options...at a cost!
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From the album: Stihl MS200T rebuild
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From the album: Stihl MS200T rebuild
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From the album: Stihl MS200T rebuild
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From the album: Stihl MS200T rebuild
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From the album: Stihl MS200T rebuild
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Bit of both probably, bet it kicks now and then:lol:
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It isn't a ring ting ting noise is it - could be the clutch tapping the clutch drum on idle. Easiest way of finding out if it is the clutch is to remove the thing and run the saw up:thumbup: Piston slap generally happens on older saws once the piston skirt wears - 026/MS260s are quite bad for this - some saws have cylinder extenders that go down in to the crankcase to support the piston at BTDC where this wear is common.
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A saw so new shouldnt be knocking but engine noise can be: Small end - light tapping Crank bearings - whine, hollow drumming noise, rumbling Big end - Thumping knock Piston slap - on idle - a metalic knocking Clutch - same as above On crank bearings, you can usually hold the flywheel or clutch and wobble the crank to feel the play. On small end, big end etc just wobble the flywheel to and forth gauging the amount you can move it until the piston moves or strip and inspect the play/parts. You may have a fault but the dealer should help.
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I think Matty was happy...once I opened up the muffler like I wanted to in the first place:001_rolleyes:
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Your 395XP just had a good going over:thumbup: The 576 sounds like the carb tuning is wrong, possibly needs richening on the L screw but difficult to tell without seeing it.
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365s tend to have around 145psi when run in and reckon that using the decomp is taking this down too low for combustion. Some larger saws do run on a lower compression than their smaller cousins - just use the saw without the decomp:thumbup:
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Been porting a 390XP, if came in with a Golf piston that was badly scored so had some history of a repair gone wrong. New Meteor piston fitted, widened inlet and exhaust ports, modified transfers, lowered the squish and a muffler mod - it is going to be loud and has some decent compression now. Like a prat, I forgot to push the diaphragm on to the metering arm and wondered why I was getting an after Christmas workout trying to start it:001_rolleyes: Fired up first time after having the carb apart, loud but good:thumbup:
