spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Widened the inlet and exhaust ports and opened up the piston windows then opened up the air filter union:thumbup:
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That looks like one of the ones Stubby has fitted to his 390XP and 372XP, damn loud, the neighbours loved it:001_rolleyes:
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http://www.arboristsite.com - over the water:001_rolleyes:
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not good for customer satisfaction:lol:
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If you look at many inlet manifolds, they are dimpled to cause a good mix of fuel and air through turbulence. I don't personally piss around with polishing, there is a limit to how much you can do without getting fanatical and obsessive about it shaving a tenth of a second off a cut - I have ben there:001_rolleyes: Obtaining more revs and torque and getting 80% of the 100% that is ever available is what it is about - leave the racers to chase the last 20%. Saying that, I am starting to think about an old 066 I have and want to make a heavyweight racer:blushing:
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Leave it on the 12", the 335 and 338 like to hit decent revs before hitting the wood- similar to the MS201 in this respect and the smaller bar will help it to maintain revs in the cut. That's my opinion for what it is worth!
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There is much that can be done on a 254XP, the design leaves much on the table. I have read one book that does clarify a few facts that I had already heard from others and does give an interesting insight to two stroke tuning in a very indirect way but if you want to do it, learn what the constriants are and work within them. The 254XP I did was scarily quick and was one of the few saws that took me by surprise when I fired it up after porting:thumbup:
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First thing to check is that with the throttle closed, the throttle linkage isn't getting held open at all. You should be able the squeeze the throttle slightly before the throttle arm on the carb starts to move. You could start the saw and then manually push the throttle linkage close to see if you can get the revs to die. If this doesn't work it sounds like a bad air leak, to go this quickly, it sounds like an impulse line or inlet manifold split but could be a possible disintegrated seal. Don't run it - get it checked out now as lean running may seize the saw if run flat out:thumbdown:
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Nice load of nipples Barrie:lol: Keep mine for the gearboxes on hedge cutters and long reach heads:thumbup:
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and it is ERECT:blushing:
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Found this in the workshop, was wondering if Barrie can tell me what it is:blushing:
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There he goes - on about nipples again:lol:
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Pinions can look in good shape but still not work - closely inspect and make sure the tips of the pinion are not rounded and also check that the thread runs uninterupted - I had one once that was distorted and formed a loop on to the next thread rather than forming a continous spiral - hope that makes sense. The pinion should sit on the crank shaft and should turn the oiler in this position - it is easy to overlook a bit of wear. Other common issues are a gunged up pick up filter and also a plugged pump.
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Yes....these young bucks:001_rolleyes:
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Barrie - you are worthy to be on my thread:thumbup: Well said and spot blinking on me old mucker:thumbup1:
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Small marks/scratches are not an issue - look on my "what's on your bench" thread, plenty of seized pistons on there - the sort of look you don't want to see is the look that someone has attacked the piston with a course file - with black carbon embedded in it! If unsure, post a pic:thumbup:
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dealing with rude/wrong customers
spudulike replied to onyx landscaping/fencing's topic in General chat
Simple - put the price up and enjoy a drink at their expense:thumbup: Fortunately, I have found the large majority of customers have been 100% fine and always treat others with respect and honesty and tend to be treated likewise:thumbup: -
As far as piston damage goes, both skirt and ring will reduce compression but the rings will reduce it considerably more. You are looking for vertical lines on the exhaust side of the piston. If it looks like wet smooth aluminium, all is probably fine. I usually salvage the OEM cylinder and fit a Meteor piston and have a very high success rate:thumbup:
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Look at the piston after removing the muffler, sounds as though it may have nipped up. Other than that, perhaps the carb needs ultrasonically cleaning.
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I think I have said all there is to be said, the MS171 and all its similar models are a bit restrictive in their design - the simple way is too open up the muffler and leave it at that. For the more inclined, the inlet and exhaust ports may be opened up. The next stage is normally a pop up piston but as you can't turn the piston AND cylinder down, you are stuck with modifying the piston or seeing if another one will fit and can be modified in to a pop up!
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It could be a number of things but from personal experience have had issues with the carbs on 029/039/MS390s. A deep ultasonic clean has resolved the issues I had.
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Been fixing up a couple of saws in my collection for sale very shortly - the MS650 is a nice runner and just needs a new side cover and spikes. Nearly finished a MS200T, pulls nice compression and should be ready at the weekend - PM me if you are interested in either saw:thumbup:
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The clamshell design of the engine cuts out a few options on upping the compression. Sure, there are things that can be done but start getting a damn sight more involved. If doing the work yourself then go ahead - it is all a learning curve but if geting others to do it, I think the gains won't be that cost effective. The comment on the clamshell design is based on the fact you can't turn the cylinder down because the cylinder base forms the upper part of the crankcase - there are always other options...at a cost!
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From the album: Stihl MS200T rebuild
