spudulike

[ame]http://www.amazon.co.uk/Eclectic-Seal-All-Gas-Oil-Resistant-Adhesive/dp/B001U7EJVS[/ame] Do you guys know how to use google:001_rolleyes: You type what you want to find in that big blank box in the middle:thumbup1:

The 346XP thrives on revs and hits the top very fast, the 026 will have more torque but vibrates more IMO. It just depends on what you like. The 028 IMO is too old now to be a main saw or to be used for anything else than a backup or weekend saw - the 026 shares much with the 024, MS260, MS240 and as such, the spares are vey common and easy to get hold of. The answer is simple - if you must have a Stihl, buy the 026/MS260 but if you fancy something a bit more racy then buy the 346XP Silverside (50cc)

Amazon - it is the only stuff I have found to truly resist petrol!

Generally you have Husqvarna kit and then you have the McCulloch/Flymo/Partner re badged homeowner kit - a throw back from the Electrolux days. The exception to this is Jonsered where many share major parts and constrution. I don't know the age of the strimmer, some Partner kit is pretty good - picked up a stone cutter once - real nice build quality but best look at the style and design and compare to the manufactures mentioned and see if you can find a match. Personally I like the old Kawasaki straight pole strimmers - very pokey and strong!

Not sure where you have been, the 346XP is faster cutting and better AV than the 026:thumbup:

Use "Sealall" that will offfer a long term fix, bearing lock is for clearance fit items and not larger gaps - JB weld is also a good gap filler but is sod to remove

The low price reamer/ insert kits are utter crap, using a large drill to cut the initial hole is dodgy as the drill will snatch and open the hole up too much - not easy in a pillar drill either! I have invested in the tapered tap and bottoming tap sets and hand reamers to get the job done right - the inserts can work but need good threaded seats for strength plus a good thread lock compound. I have always frowned on helicoiled plug repair since owning a Yamaha FS1E and having it melt plugs due to a poorly fitted helicoil. Will post images once I get it back - one of the issues was that the plug came loose and the exhaust gases escaping past it damaged the metal arround the plug seat - the re-tap wasn't as good as I had hoped it would be! The next option is a carbon steel insert with 2mm wall thickness, if the tapped hole is good, it will be strong once done:thumbup:

That was planned - I now have tha capabillity to do 16mm, 18mm and 3/4" inserts, I find drills snatch when opening up the original hole so have invested in expensive reamers to do the job by hand and two taps of each type so the thread is good and deep. I am really pissed off it has failed but will do the re-repair for negligble costs as I don't agree for re-charging on failed repairs!

026 - spares much more available - guess you dont wanta 346XP NE then:001_rolleyes:

A day of mixed fortune, had a cracking start, one MS200T back together, ported and running well, a MS201 with running issues turned out to be a busted clutch spring, a bad running MS200T - carb clean in the cleaner and all good - all going well............ The 395XP I had repaired the spark plug hole failed:thumbdown: Bugger, I had suspected the repair might not last so have invested in taps and reamers to do the next size up and will do a repair when I get it back. This will be a carbon steel insert and will have more strength in it, I take failure on repairs I do personally and am really hard on myself when things don't work out but always say - it is not initially important how you get in to trouble but how you get out of it and then you put in to place an action to resolve the issue for the customer and then resolve he issue for the next time it happens. I will pick up the machine Tuesday and will get it repaired and out again for Thursday delivery and have more faith in the next repair I will do and the new kit I have purcahsed to do this sort of repair.

Purchased mine a nice new cordless Dyson vacuum cleaner - she did say she wanted one of those one teaspoon fat fryers though:blushing:

Fully agree with what Wes said - the aftermarket bevels are pretty suspect as are the rings (brittle) and the circlips (soft)!

Looks familiar:thumbup:

You an do the same by removing the muffler or just using a small inspetion torch shining through the plug hole - do it all the time and just as simple. It is why there are so many saws on ebay with the muffler missing - never a good sign! A reasonable idea though!

Same part - 503 62 56-01 Not too easy to find one though!

Bugger:lol: No problems:thumbup:

Yeah, but by the time they arrive - I will be retired:001_rolleyes:........or the saws will be antiques:lol: The good news is I can build these little buggers up from boxes of bits:thumbup:

You learn by experience:thumbup:

Life is never simple if you do the job 100%. If the saw has been seized, my normal action is to see if it cleans up and then, if it is OK, fit a quality piston - now here is the important bit - if it has seized, something is not right - fuel mix, old fuel, carb settings or air leak - you really need to test for these things to ensure it doesn't happen again with your replacement parts fitted. You learn from doing so whatever happens, you will have learnt useful knowledge but it is better if you get the job done right and have a working saw:thumbup: If you have any questions, ask - I speciallize on tuning 357XPs and know them inside out

Going right back to the original post - the two things that GENERALLY make a saw scrap is a seizure or crankbearings/crank issues - this is using standard dealer parts and rates. I am somewhat baffled that on the MS200t, the carb has been stripped, as has the inner top handle components. Most techs will do a compression check, take a judgement and pull the muffler if a seize is suspected - crank issues are mostly found by waggling (tech term) the crank ends for play and rotation of the crank by hand. So why were the carb and handle innards stripped:confused1: No idea - I only strip the handle if the fast idle part of the choke lever isn't functioning or the linkage is tight/sticking. IMO, the carb should have been reassembled - piss poor to leave it with the covers off:thumbdown: The other saw - why is the flywheel off - why is the saw sooooooooo stripped down - personally I can tell within minutes if a saws condition is OMG or and on from that - pulling the cylinder to check if the bore is salvageable is pretty much normal for me and that gives me all I need. Much of my work comes to me like this - and pretty much 100% goes out running:thumbup:

I use my xray eyes to inspect saws for faults and enjoy munching on a kryptonite sarnie whilst wearing my underwear over my trousers - the customers look at me strangely, not sure why:lol:

65cc is a fairly big saw for the average homeowner and that is why people probably say it is a semi pro machine but having had a few apart, I do know what you mean!

Thought we were gonna get your list again Barrie:blushing: Prey tell me kind sir...what does your service consist of:001_rolleyes:

I have used Ipostparcels - Chainsaws are not on their prohibitive list and they have an easy to use tariff system based on size and weight!

Yup - thats what Barrie meant:thumbup: