spudulike

I have used IPOSTPARCELS, they are pretty good and take saws:thumbup:

Too tight:blushing: Bloody things piss me off:thumbdown:

Did someone say ported:confused1:

The problem with these cheap saws is they are....cheap - quality usually comes last when they manufacture them and only the carb and bar are manufactured by mainstream known manufacturers. That being said, the fuel system is generally at fault in cases like this, that is assuming the piston hasn't been seized at some time in it's life! So - the first thing is a compression check - 150+ psi is OK, below is bad. You can check the piston by removing the exhaust but on these top handled machines, it is much more involved. You can try to undo the H & L screw a little on the carb, The only issue is that it probably has splined adjusters and requires a special screw driver - I usually remove the carb, use a the plastic of a crimp connector to remove the screw and slot it with a hacksaw to make adjustment easier! No easy way in to the uninitiated:thumbdown:

Nice one, that is my fabled piccy:thumbup:

Yup, I remember that - looks like the ring end has chipped must of the plating off - amazing the ring didn't snag!

I did tell you:thumbup: and great value as well!

Exactly what I was thinking:lol: David Bailey he aint:001_rolleyes: The important bit is the central electrode, it should be the colour of coffee with milk! If it is white, the saw is running lean, if it is graphite grey, it is overheating! I have no idea how you would go about richening the mix on an auto tune saw but would be damn careful about oil/fuel ratios and get it checked out if not correct! Get a decent photo up and lets see it - I do have a photo of a lean run plug but not on this computer - it will be on my "whats on your bench thread" though!

140 - 170, used it on one that had a loose insert from anothers repair and it is solid, many months later - good stuff IMO:thumbup:

This is Loctite 270 green - the modern replacement for red:thumbup:

The carb is a Walbro HDA 35b, give Hugo at Rowena Motors an email or bell, give him the part number if you have it - I think it is 501 79 06-01and see if he has any ideas - they are Walbro agents and are damn helpful:thumbup:

Seconded:thumbup:

One of he US guys measured an 026 Stihl before and after porting/muffler mod and measured a drop in temperature. If you want good flow but not a real loud saw, try opening up the outlet hole by 2-3 times - the shroud can be lengthened by brazing/welding in an extra length of shield. If the sound is allowed to bounce of an internal surface before exiting, it will quieten the saw down, forward facing outlets can get pretty noisy! It should give you extra cutting speed just check the colour of the plug and max revs. 4 years isn't too bad for after market - milling is pretty harsh and at least it didn't go pop big time - am assuming it didn't:blushing:

The limit caps are there to stop the uninitiated fiddling with the settings and seizing their engines! You can either pull the limit caps and adjust then replace or simply leave them off - no damage should occur unless some misguided fella has a fiddle! The 880 on this thread was one I did and it was the owners decision to go aftermarket - TBH, the Golf pistons are not too bad but the Meteor ones are much better! You probably know, you cant get Meteor pistons or aftermarket cylinders for these machines. From memory, I believe the saw should make 12,000 revs maximum free standing but double check!

Had a 560XP in with a buggered spark plug hole. The plug is M10 x 1.0 so didn't have the kit to do it - I am well covered on the M14 ones so agreed to do it for the price of the tools plus circa £20 to cover a little of my time - that way I have the kit for future! I got the V-coil kit, good quality and made in Germany, the helicoil lengths are measured in "diameters" - 1d = 10mm, 1.5d = 15mm - the length I needed was 12.5mm so took a 1.5d insert and lopped off a couple of coils and ground the top flat - not really necessary but get a little anal on attention to detail. The tap is the type that has a taper guide on the end of it leading in to a reamer and then the final tap to take the insert. Don't get confused with the cheap crap ones - I need to use decent grade taps to get strength out of the finished item. I also use a Loctite high grade thread lock when putting these in, many don't but I like them to go in once and never come out and the cost/time is negligible. The pics are of the tap, two insert lengths, damaged plug hole, tapping in progress, tapped hole and then repaired hole. You wouldnt know the insert had been fitted and will be damn strong in use. I finally get a bit of heat with a plumbers lamp on the cylinder to make the Loctite go off.

Yes but how would the Swedish pronounce HusQvarna:lol:

Glad to hear it:thumbup:

Generally on Pro saws,the crank case splits vertically in half and the cylinder has a flat base and sits on the top of it - it makes removal easier and means the crankcase needs no splitting to remove the cylinder. On a clamshell crankcase, the lower crankcase is like a clamshell and clamps on to the bottom of the cylinder that acts as the upper part of the crankcase as well as the cylinder i.e. it isn't flat and sits in a plastic cradle that forms the chainsaw body - they are always a PITA to work on as the whole engine needs to come out and be split if cylinder or piston needs work!

Well I would like to run this up the flag pole and park it there, I am 150% sure about this....where did the extra 50% come from - in my day 100% was it??? And Signage - what the flippin heck is this...it is a SIGN!!! Oh - when did controversy become contra....versy. Even on the BBC...Grrrrrr

In short, you need to remove the recoil cover, clutch cover, remove the carb, remove the top handle, remove the cover directly under where the top handle is, remove the manifold - note the different lengths of the retaining screws - get then the wrong way round and you will know it:thumbdown: Can't remember if you must remove the clutch and inner covers or not. You should then be able to remove the tank and do the reverse of the above. It is simple if you take it slowly and are reasonably mechanically minded - take a few pictures of the saw as you take it appart to jog your memory on reassembly.

You would need a 15", 0.325", 1.3mm chain and car, just make sure your sprocket is a 0.325" one. The Oregon Micro Lite with 95vpx chain is rapid but not the strongest option, just depends on the sort of work you are doing!

It's no joke - I got a flame a foot long and all the hairs on my right arm burnt off:blushing:

Typically I set the flywheel to coil gap with a doubled up piece of A4 paper (smaller gap than normal, I disconnect the kill wire and then earth the plug on the cylinder away from the hole and give it a fast spin over in a semi dark area and look for a spark. If it is not sparking, it is worth checking there is some form of continuity between the HT cap and the coil kill connection - if this is OK, it is a new coil time - the one good thing is that many of Stihls saws share the same coil:thumbup:

TBH I scavenge wood but it is always dead fallen that has been cleared from the road and DISCARDED in to the nearest ditch - I never cross a boundary without asking the land owner first and all the wood is either fallen or broken boughs. I wouldn't trespass to take others timber or take timber that has obviously been left for later pickup - I am talking piles of ivy clad dead standing that has blown down and been cut and lobbed - I have had the land owner thank me on more than one occassion:thumbup: It is how you do it - some take the piss, I just clear ditches and leave the site clean and tidy!

Classic - bit unseasonal though:lol: