spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Try it, all you are trying to do is increase flow through the exhaust, I would run both outlets together rather than just one.
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Mmm, thanks Barrie:lol:
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Check the screw on the orange air filter cover still has both sides of its end - the bit that screws in to the inside of the airbox - it is common for one of these to get damaged by heavy handed operators. Other than that, a circlip that has come out and is now embedded in to the piston crown is possible! Damaged small/big ends generally cause lack of compression but don't cause this locking up. I would say you have got something embedded in the top of the piston crown or the top of the cylinder:thumbdown:
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You cant say that with no pic!!!!
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I had a dog biscuit in my lunch box today, the wife made my sarnies, gave me quite a start. She had been wondering what had happened to it:001_rolleyes:
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On the 346XP there is no need to do this, an enlarged existing outlet makes the saw louder but not excessive. You may find your muffler is now much louder with the straight through pipe but see how it goes! Normally I leave the old pipe as it is - no need to seal it!
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Quite correct, generally the standard carb will suffice for a woods ported saw and I would only come away from this if I were engineering something quite radical! I do have a bit of software that calculates all the variables but it gets a bit complex and isn't that conclusive!
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I open the existing hole in the exhaust up - it is a simple mod on this saw!
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No, a smaller bore will inrease velocity and increase the draw on the fuel. I have ported a few of these saws now and not needed to go to the lengths you are looking at going to. The carb can only deliver the amount of fuel/air it is designed to deliver so if the engine is radically modified, it may benefit from a larger bore carb but I have found that mine is verging on dark brown and is pulling 15,000rpm! I reckon you will open a bag of worms if you do this - I have heard of some tuners opening the carb bore up!
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So when I fix up MS200Ts, I need to climb up a tree to test it:confused1: Guess it will be useful to test it at altitude:blushing:
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Been porting a 372XP today, took a while to clean it up but is coming along well. Unfortunately the clutch side seal failed the vacuum check so needs replacing - just as well I found it as it would have gone pop in a short while:thumbdown:
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Mine runs a H screw setting of around 3/4 turn - it is normal, no need for a bigger carb, the extra flow through the carb pulls up a lot more fuel through the high speed circuit as the venturi effect of the carb is greater because of the flow!
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Right - the 357XP - what has been done to it and what are you trying to achieve? a bigger carb will deliver more fuel/air to the saw - you are trying ot LEAN it down???
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I have used IPOSTPARCELS, they are pretty good and take saws:thumbup:
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Too tight:blushing: Bloody things piss me off:thumbdown:
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Did someone say ported:confused1:
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The problem with these cheap saws is they are....cheap - quality usually comes last when they manufacture them and only the carb and bar are manufactured by mainstream known manufacturers. That being said, the fuel system is generally at fault in cases like this, that is assuming the piston hasn't been seized at some time in it's life! So - the first thing is a compression check - 150+ psi is OK, below is bad. You can check the piston by removing the exhaust but on these top handled machines, it is much more involved. You can try to undo the H & L screw a little on the carb, The only issue is that it probably has splined adjusters and requires a special screw driver - I usually remove the carb, use a the plastic of a crimp connector to remove the screw and slot it with a hacksaw to make adjustment easier! No easy way in to the uninitiated:thumbdown:
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Nice one, that is my fabled piccy:thumbup:
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Yup, I remember that - looks like the ring end has chipped must of the plating off - amazing the ring didn't snag!
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I did tell you:thumbup: and great value as well!
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Exactly what I was thinking:lol: David Bailey he aint:001_rolleyes: The important bit is the central electrode, it should be the colour of coffee with milk! If it is white, the saw is running lean, if it is graphite grey, it is overheating! I have no idea how you would go about richening the mix on an auto tune saw but would be damn careful about oil/fuel ratios and get it checked out if not correct! Get a decent photo up and lets see it - I do have a photo of a lean run plug but not on this computer - it will be on my "whats on your bench thread" though!
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140 - 170, used it on one that had a loose insert from anothers repair and it is solid, many months later - good stuff IMO:thumbup:
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This is Loctite 270 green - the modern replacement for red:thumbup:
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The carb is a Walbro HDA 35b, give Hugo at Rowena Motors an email or bell, give him the part number if you have it - I think it is 501 79 06-01and see if he has any ideas - they are Walbro agents and are damn helpful:thumbup:
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Seconded:thumbup:
