spudulike

Sounds ideal! Enjoying the flatness of Norfolk at the moment but check out the courier if your local guy isn't up to it. I am always busy but have a two week or under turn around on most kit!

That is good advice from Andy as I have just repaired a seized 346xp with a split impulse. If I had the saw, it would be pressure and vacuum checked. The impulse line on this saw is taken through the rubber manifold and joins the cylinder with a small dimple with a hole through it and this sometimes splits around the base, it is pretty hard to see and is easier to see if you slip the inlet manifold off its carrier. Other issues could be the little impulse hose has slipped off under the inlet manifold. It could be a shot crank seal typically on the clutch side, worth checking the carb throttle rod isn't snagging somewhere and also make sure the saw has a metal inlet manifold clamp, the earlier ones were plastic and were upgraded due to the plastic ones unclipping. These are the normal issues, hopefully your repair man is half decent as a bad one will just retune the carb leaving you with some issues. Hopefully it will be simple but beware that an airleak will kill one of these high revving saws pretty quickly!

I would agree with Alec agg221, the coil is EOL and would be an issue if it failed plus there are other parts becoming EOL which will mean maintaining/repairing these saws is problematic!

That was an old TV trick.....look at what you are getting the Fella says, taking a nice TV out of an opened box, I will just get you a fresh new one and he sells the dupe a box of bricks:thumbdown:

The main issue I find with these is that the holed inner flange that you can see with the floppy bit lifted, must turn a bit which is the locking bit of the cap before the top bit rotates some more, compressing the cap and sealing it. The issue is when the holed flange doesn't rotate fully so the cap isn't locked correctly so when the flippy bit is rotated, it doesn't align correctly so won't press down. I believe the issue to be distortion of the inner locking part of the fuel tank cap hole and usually remove the rubber oring on the cap and rub/file the cap down a little until it fits better. On the oil tank, either clean the cap innards or fit a new one to resolve the issue!

Thanks Andy, always a pleasure:thumbup:

It seems to be when the tank hole distorts a little. I have filed down the cap a little before now to get it to work but is never easy!

Thanks Joe:thumbup:

OK, that is Brad Snelling, he does a fair bit of porting in the US on Arboristsite! I have ported a fair number of 346xps, I am sure a few on here will comment on them and just PM me if you want a price for the work.

The logic is that if you take a machine in for service, you get it back fully working, fully working but with recommendations for further work ( new clutch drum for instance) or advice for a more serious issue and quote to resolve. What is the logic saying the machine is serviced but not useable??? I don't understand that:confused1:

Think I should put my prices up, I won't embarrass the dealer with what I cover on an £80 service😀

My advice is to leave it now, we have all had a laugh and are still buddies plus the beer from last night has worn off:blushing::lol:

The £80 was to change the recoil rope I would have said. In my world, I would have advised what I had done, costs to date, what I believed the further fault to be and possible cost go remedy! It sounds like they put a kid on the job and were defensive when they realised they hadn't fixed the issue!

Check you have a spark by removing the plug, putting it in the cap, earthing on the cylinder AWAY from the plug hole and pull it over fast looking at the plug electrodes. Check the plug is wet with fuel after 10-15 pulls with the choke on. Make sure the saw has compression - difficult to do without a comparison machine or gauge but there should be a spongy squeezy type feeling when pulling the engine past top dead centre. Report back after you have done this - it is most likely a fuel issue and checking the carb is fuelling correctly is a good first step but the checks above will guide you.

Ah, I appologise for casting aspursions against your fine fuel. I should have known there was a good reason for their demise. I have just used the Bio cleaner that Aspen do, not bad at all but the price is a bit edgy......smells OK though:lol:

I say as I find Jon, they are both good saws, the MS660 will have been pressure and vac checked and the fuel ststem will have been checked over as part of the porting so know it to be a good buy rather than some of the poop you find elswhere! Oh - and Paul is a decent fella:thumbup:

I'm sorry, missed this thread, hope it works out well for you Paul, always good to meet and chew the fat:thumbup: The MS660 and MS260 have been across my bench, both have original Pots and Pistons, both have very good compression, the MS660 has been ported by me and both saws are in good condition so would say they are a good bet to purchase. Note they are both the later MS versions not the earlier "0" models!

I see you have murdered them with that filthy Aspen:sneaky2::lol: Thought you said it was green - tell that to those earwigs:001_rolleyes:

Nobody speaks the same langauge as Jon, they broke the mould when they made him:lol:

Thanks Barrie, good info and the sort of part that is likely to shoot across the bench before falling in to a full bin:blushing:

Exactly what I was thinking Barrie, I do always dos full service/refurb when I port a saw to avoid any issues.......just for the record! Surprising the amount that have air leaks!

And you will learn some interesting stuff and you never know where it may lead and the skills you will gain:thumbup:

Bloody hope not, looks like a lashed earth to me:001_rolleyes:

Just shows we both know our craft Andrew, no need to apologise:thumbup:

That is what we call the "Impulse Line" as it takes the positive and negative pressure from the crankase and allows the carb to use it to pump the fuel out of the fuel tank and in to the carb using a pumping diaphragm - the one under the alloy cover held in place by a single screw. An airleak in this area will cause issues with the idle being too fast and eratic when the throttle is closed and possible screaming at top end revs.