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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. Conifer burns well, Burrell kindly dropped me off a large amount of ringed up Connie and am still burning it now after two years seasoning. The resin can be a pain but it gives off good heat and burns clean - no smoking on the glass at all:thumbup: I service his saws and look after him and he appreciates my decent prices and good work so there you go!
  2. I have had three of these MS362s in over the last two weeks, all have had disintegrated clutch needle bearings, all three have knockd out their clutch drums and all three have taken out their worm drives due to the excessive play in the drum. I have only ever seen such wear on MS261s but looks like Stihl have another problem as one of these machines was a 2013 machine and in fair to good condition!
  3. I know, I have used some home owner saws and some are quite passable, not a pro saw as you say but good enough for home owner logging for a few days a year. Always difficult to get an idea if the expectations are too high, the saw has an issue or someone just needs to fine tune it, I guess it will sort itself out and sounds like you have a good relationship with them so understand the sentiment - lets hope it gets sorted!
  4. No witch hunt from me Barrie, all these saws have a place in the market and some of the guys on here rate Mitox as a good step in just under the big boys and at a good price. Just trying to help as usual!
  5. Blimey Barrie - you didn't mention Aspen on a fuel thread, are you feeling OK, you havent been cloned, face off or cocoon type assimilation.......I am worried:001_huh:
  6. My opinion on the carb is an engineer stabbing in the dark or has a spare carb on the shelf! It wouldn't cause a backfire IMO
  7. I usually check the gauze strainer by removing it and inspecting it under a light and eye glass, they can sometimes look clean but have dried scum in the open areas. The diaphragm cover gets removed, wood chip can gather under the cover on some saws, the metering arm etc gets some carb cleaner and compressor blast. I reassemble the pump section and pressure check, if it leaks the needle gets removed, inspected, cleaned and returned then retested. I remove the H&L screws, get some carb cleaner followed by GT85 down the holes and then returned. If the above fails then I have a couple of 100W heated ultrasonic cleaners I use with specific carb cleaner and this is good to deep clean them if necessary. If you don't understand the above then get someone else to do it!
  8. As Mark said plus I usually spin the E clip round in the groove after fitting to ensure the groove is clean and the clip can rotate. Are you using Stihl OEM clips as they are thicker than no OEM ones? also, if the groove is full of crap, it may be stopping the clip fitting correctly or stretching the clip!
  9. Possibly the carb just needs an overhaul although it may be a partial seize so worth looking at the piston through the exhaust port and going from there. Have the carb apart, look at the gauze strainer that tendds to get gunged and worth looking at the fuel line - it is possibly split.
  10. The backfiring is thenflywheel key sheared, most likely cause is that it wasn't torqued down tightly enough on repair or the mating surfaces were not clean!
  11. TBH, four hours isn't long for the cylinder to bed down and make full compression! I have noticed how badly small saws can run on a 1.5mm gauge full chisel, what sort of bar and chain has it got? I would say a 1.3mm semi chisel may work the best as it will sap less power - the Oregon Microlite with 95VPX chain is pretty good at not burning power by being too aggressive! Other than a dealer fitting the wrong chain then the issue may just be setting the carb up right - smaller saws are less accommodating than larger ones so get the L screw a bit rich or lean and bang goes your midrange. A 40cc saw would be better on a shorter chain - 14" would be right and a narrow kerf 1.3mm would be best.
  12. Got the workshop model as you can change the battery, been an excellent tool over the years:thumbup:
  13. It won't be the fuel line and unlikely to leak air being that young!
  14. Nipped up is a slight seize that frees up slowing the saw to run but not very well due to lower compression! Checking fuel line- I use a pressure tester on the fuel filter side pushing against the carb but if you have no pressure or pop off gauge than you may have to take the line off and test it under water by blocking one end and blowing down the other end and look for bubbles!
  15. First thing to do is google the part numbers and see if there is a Husky/Jonnie equivalent. Do it in xxx xx-xx. xxxxx-xx. And xxxxxxx format and see what comes up. ADW may have some answers if he is about!
  16. The upside down cranking with no plug is a good idea, WD40 or oil on the needle bearing as it rusts very quickly. I would get it running very soon and leave it to get hot so it drives the water out as bearings rust quickly!
  17. Check the fuel line is ok and if that is fine, it may be wear on the bore/piston if the machine has seen much use or it may have nipped up at some stage. Worth taking off the muffler and checking the piston through the exhaust port.
  18. Is your Sister in Law some sort of Far Eastern Dictator Jon? Is this burning of books some sort of stand against religion, art or establishment? Does she look a little like Kim Jong Um?:lol:
  19. Most saws seize and then free up once cooled down but just lose compression due to the ring being bonded in to the piston groove. Not sure if you understood my earlier statement, it wasn't about the Pawls sticking but a statement saying if the recoil cover is in place, on many Husqvarners, yours included, the function of the pawls will stop the crank turning anti-clockwise but will rotate clockwise. This is unlike many Stihls but is normal!
  20. The starter pawls are catching under the recoil cover, remove it and check again. This is 100% normal for this and many other Husqvarnas! Take the muffler off and look at the piston, any scores and it is toast but could probably be sorted!
  21. Thanks Patrick, hope the 365 and 357 are running sweetly after their holiday:thumbup:
  22. Looks about normal on some of the Shyte I get in:001_rolleyes:
  23. It depends how your saw is tuned at the moment! A MS660 has a 13500 maximum rev specification so I usually set them to 12500 - 13000 rpm and would set a Muffler Modded one to 13000. I tend to find a ported saw actually needs less than 1 turn on the H screw but a MM needs slightly richer. You can set by ear if you are used to doing so!
  24. Yes, thanks again for that, they can be sods to fit!

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