spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Sorry Barrie, I found them on the internet and when someone is that good, feel they deserve a little help as they are worth it but do know where you are coming from! Perhaps they prefer to deal with businesses now and I am lucky!
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I guess this carb wasn't a Zama Tillotson or Walbro, could be the reason:confused1:
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Damn - I had it as a caravan mover:sneaky2:
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I really don't understand this, I mail them with the parts I need, they send through a Paypal request, I pay and they deliver within 24hrs. I won't say how much I pay but needless to say, it is bloody good value even compared to ebay prices. I have always found them very helpful to the point I have sent images of an elusive accelerator pump I was looking for and they matched it. They even sent a part I was enquiring about before I had paid! Perhaps it may be how business is done but they are damn good IMO and always do the leg work on carb model, type of parts and pay within hours:thumbup:
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Sounds like the needle valve is leaking, you need to pressure check the carb to see if it leaks down. Carb kits are available from Rowena Motors and are genuine Walbro, Tillotson and Zama so OEM without the Stihl plastic box! A clean may do it if the fella knows his stuff!
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Thats a mess!
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Yes, it won't drop like a ships anchor when held by the recoil starter handle:001_rolleyes:
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Yup, much better than I had expected. I had fears it was a busted circlip or ring that had gouged the bore and was baffled when I looked in to the bore via the exhaust port. It was only when I looked at the piston crown that it was obvious! A new piston should give you lots more compression:thumbup:
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Lets get away from our Essex Boys Great Expectations:lol: Been stripping an 064, without stripping the bore looked fine, on removing the muffler, the bore really did look OK as did the piston but the saw was obviously lacking compression in a big way. I pulled the cylinder off and .........ah, a logical reason for the lack of compression, a big lump of weld in the middle of the piston and a crack around it. Someone has used a screw in piston stop and probably an impact wrench which has fractured the top of the piston and the thing has had a redneck repair which has failed - only seen it once before so don't use these screw in stops on side entry plug holes!!! New piston on order now:thumbup:
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You need to check the oiler hole is free in the bar, make sure the oiling channel in the bar mount is free of chip. If using fuel in the oil tank has no effect then the oil pump will need to be removed and the oil pump blasted through with WD40 and the oiler holes made sure they are clear and also make sure the oiler pickup is clear. This should do it unless the pump or oiler drive is worn/damaged!
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I will tear it down today before going out! I reckon it has seized and then run and it has purged the bore of transfer but has now lost most of its compression! If not, then something has let loose- circlip or ring but will confirm soon!
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Unless the 560 is different from all other saws, the circuit has two faults. The saw will not spark which may be the wires chaffed and earthing. The switch or wires have broken meaning the stop circuit can't be made and the saw can't be turned off! ADW can probably confirm the circuit but I am pretty sure that it will follow all predecessors!
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<p>Hi Dave,</p>
<p>Much depends on budget and if you are looking for second user or brand new! The 261 and 362 suffer from weak clutch drum bearings but not sure if this will show up with heavy domestic use!</p>
<p>The 365 comes in a number of variants but is a solid lump of a saw and will do what you want. If it is the Xtorq, the saw can be easily converted to a 372!</p>
<p>I started with a 346xp 50cc and is a ripper, very fast, I then got a 357xp and is the same but faster but did modify them extensively!</p>
<p> </p>
<p>A pro 50cc saw will run a 16" bar with ease, the weight of the saw will also be easier on the back, especially if you will be a weekend warrior!</p>
<p>The 550xp has a decent turn of speed, nice balance and is light!</p>
<p>I have little experience of the echo/Dolmar range!</p>
<p>Cheers</p>
<p>Steve</p>
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The switch will be connected to the coil kill wire and earth - it will be earthed by being screwed to the metal chassis or a wire connected to earth. All you are doing is connecting the kill wire to earth when using the switch!
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Nah but that Estelle is a babe:blushing:
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Spoiler - it was Able Magwich and not Miss Haversham:lol:
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Unfortunately it is too late as it is done but in short, exhaust port, lots of widening, inlet is a weird shape but can be widened a bit and reshaped but be careful of the lower ring end. lower transfer - widen and reshape, uppers, a little reshaping but watch the ring end. Base gasket can be dropped. The exhaust outlet is pretty big so just drill the baffle. This was an early thin ring model and picks up surprisingly quickly now:thumbup:
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Check the stop switch and wiring has not chaffed and earthing and also worth checking the autotune connector is still connected, not sure if this would kill the spark but worth trying. If you have another machine it would be worth swapping coils but make sure you gap each one correctly using a business card on the flywheel.
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Arbtalk Charity Raffle 2014 Prize list
spudulike replied to Steve Bullman's topic in Arbtalk Christmas Charity Raffle 2014
Well that has pissed on our crackers:thumbdown: Just joking.....keep up the good work:thumbup: -
I know:lol:
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Had an old Husqvarna 181SE in, not to be confused with the MS181, this is one big lump of Swedish old school muscle and they are a real powerhouse. This one wasn't idling and was being ported. The L screw was turned right in and after stripping the carb, I found out why. The throttle rod was shagged as us engineers say and letting in air.....so much air that the idle screw could be backed right out and it would still run. Fortunately another Arbtalker came up trumps with a very tidy carb from a 266 which shares the same rod but different carb bore size - thanks very much:thumbup:. Parts were swapped, greased and we had a nice fit. I would have thought the wear would be on the alloy body but there you go.....pretty bad wear!
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Spudmaster Flash and the Furious File - Silver lines....don't do it:lol:
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I have the 70-80% figure in mind and take a rough view on it but don't get the Verniers out to measure it! Any decrease in exhaust pressure/better flow is good, the exception being tuned expansion pipes!
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These modern auto tune engines run a lean mix so bearing failure and seizure are never far away. Run a richer mix and synthetic oil and hopefully it will help!
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Having a rule of thumb is ok but you can't just open up ports as some have limitations such as skirt size and ring ends plus there is a known two stroke tuning rule on port size and I personally stick to this rule as it has seen me well! I don't get too hung up on the exhaust outlet to exhaust port size, you are just increasing flow and trying not to make the saw stupidly noisy! Looks like the cut off saw has run to conclusion! Personally I find chainsaws nicer to use!
