spudulike

Mmmmmmmm - his saws were also in the same state - first one I have had delivered in two supermarket bags:sneaky2::lol:

Don't tell me, your senior age has thwarted your ability to post pics:lol: Get your daughter to do it, that's my advice:lol: Keep em coming Barrie, a good thought on this one:thumbup:

Had an old 357XP in recently, aftermarket cylinder well down on power, ported a new Meteor kit, fitted it and the owner couldn't believe it was the same saw after it was keeping up with his 560XP:thumbup: Much of the stuff I get in looks like your scrappers, they don't remain like that long!

Nice one Barrie, thought this would be a good idea and great to se you helping the cause, well done, great sentiment:thumbup:

I am guessing a nice donation to the Arbtalk Charity Raffle may be a good idea but am sure Barrie will be on here once he has had a plate full of grub:thumbup:

Thanks for the offer but it sounds like a load of kit I still have floating round my workshop - got to get rid at some stage:001_rolleyes: you know how it is:lol:

The worst ones I have come across have been 038 Stihls - reckon many have never had their clutches removed!

OK - I don't posses an impact gun so there's the answer:thumbup:

Do you mean the screw in ones as I find the Stihl plastic bone ones pretty effective and do use rope, especially on hard to move clutches but am careful with where the piston is in regards to the ports!

I made my own gizmo with a flat plate and three 6" nails which I use with an extension bar. I just use a longer bar if it is tight. Be assured that it will shift, you just need more force but lay off the hammer!

If they are the MS200 ones. use a sharp awl and lever them out, they can shatter so safety specs please:thumbup: I used a double hooked seal extractor on this MS660! Easy with the crank removed. I also have the Stihl tool which is pretty effective!

It is one thing to see and another to do as you well know:thumbup: Some make stuff look easy - one reason for that, they are good at it!

Here today is a class on splitting a crankcase and removal of crank and bearings. This MS660 had partially seized, the machine was able to run and it's owner did which scoured the bore of the aluminium transfer and dumped it in the main bearings seriously knocking out the flywheel side one. Washing the bottom end out didn't cure it and the only option is to fit new bearings so..... A good selection of splitters and splitting tools is a good place to start and saves belting the saw with bigger and bigger mallets until something breaks! I split the cases with my home made splitter, this one was relatively straight forward, just make sure ALL the bolts are removed and the dowels pushed half way out. I then use the Husqvarna splitter which locates on either side of the main bearing and pushes the crank out cleanly. I could have used this on both sides but having stuck a broken 6mm drill through my thumb some time ago felt I should use it:blushing: The main bearings are then pushed out with a suitable socket and the biggest G clamp you can lay your hands on - old English is best:thumbup: This one went pretty smoothly, I have had some bearings stick on the crank and be almost impossible to shift!

Thanks for the offer but the walls are pretty much covered with racks, tools, shelves and just about everything and everything you can expect and doubt I can fit a postage stamp on the walls:blushing: Cheers

I quite like a lump of decent fruit cake and a moist carrot cake gets the juices flowing oh er missus:blushing:

One waiting room....sorted:thumbup: Just got the Public Liability Insurance in place, all moving on:thumbup:

6'2" and 14 stone - lost half a stone since avoiding the desk job and standing most of the day and out walking more!

Real old saws are fine as long as the owners have some idea about how to look after them and fix issues as they happen. I get the odd old saw in and TBH, some are a labour of love and owners are lucky I have a vested interest in returning a saw back to good running condition as well as scratching a living rather than being purely commercial! I am talking about the real old saws where spares are a bitch to find, the ones that come in with leaks, bits damaged or missing and the deeper you dig, the worse it gets:001_rolleyes: If you are looking at some of the real old kit then you buy it and factor in some TLC to ensure it is back to good working order and then you know when the thing won't start and the covers come off, you aren't going to find tha carb is shagged, AV rubbers are split, fuel line is gloop, sprocket is fooked........you know how it is!

268XP I think, nice saws!

Yup, the area above the exhaust port makes the secondary compression and gives you decent power if the job has been done right. the lower part is of much less importance. I wouldn't do any heavy work on scores above the exhaust port as it is possible to cause a very shallow recess in the cylinder wall that will cause blowby of the exhaust gasses and haemorrhage your compression figure.

People just don't understand what an Auction actually is, you bid you win, you PAY and the seller SELLS, end off and no grey areas. I have had the same, a Stihl chainsaw went for £30, and suddenly it had been stolen from a shed and did I want another for £200....life is too short to deal with *****, just walk on by and keep the blood pressure down! I sold a hedge trimmer once...£1.00 - I just smiled and handed it over. I won eight used bars once....£1.00 but gave the lad a fiver.....just the way it is!

Yes...just like last time:001_rolleyes::lol:

Looks OK to me!

They are bitches to pull over, you either give it 100% commitment or that starter handle just pulls itself through those tender hands of yours:thumbdown: They have big compression, a small starter spool and a set ignition timing meaning no girly starting retarded ignition timing like the modern machines:lol: Best option - make sure it is set up well and starts on 2-3 pulls! Try a 298XP and the 181/281 doesn't seem quite that bad:001_rolleyes: