spudulike
-
Posts
14,772 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Calendar
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by spudulike
-
Highly unlikely, the electronics usually fail and produce a slight spark at the beginning of the first pull and then nothing. You can get misfires but with this, the chap has changed parts, it is probably slight drag on the crank taking the idle down. He is only 40mins away so may see him soon!
-
Well that isn't the issue then. Have you just tried to increase the idle a little to see how that goes? It may be nothing, possibly just the new slightly tighter clutch drum bearing causing a little drag on the clutch!
-
Just clean the old breather and refit it! if it is working OK, there is no point dwelling on it!
-
I forget now, I used to know:confused1:
-
If the breather is suspected then you can test by sucking on it and it should let air in but not out. Remove the pipe and test - it should pass air both ways. Stihl often use small grub screws in their breather tubes and these can get blocked. From the parts list, it looks like the breather is a simple push in one?
-
I am 180 years old:001_rolleyes:
-
Just get a quad core Android tablet if you are doing general surfing - it will be a bit like a big smartphone if that is what you want. I don't understand the BIG Apple thing, it has a little kings clothes about it to me - too expensive and Android is a free reliable platform!
-
What, the raffle, now I am worried:blushing: er indoors says it is the taking part that matters - fingers crossed:thumbup:
-
Can I report it as a glitch if I win cock all on the raffle tonight:sneaky2::lol:
-
The only time I have known the muffler area to restrict the saw turning over is when vacuum/pressure checking and the port is completely blocked off. The last thing worth trying is to remove the clutch drum and recoil cover and then turn the engine over with no plug in by turning the flywheel by hand slowly and see if the saw is loose or tight when turning over. Repeat with the plug in and experiment with the decomp in and out. I don't know why the compression should suddenly go up, a dry saw will have less compression than one that has run a few hours earlier down to the better seal the fuel creates around the piston but what you have done shouldn't effect the idle unless something is binding around the clutch area and stopping the machine idling but apart from that.......it is weird and may just need a tweak on the idle speed!
-
Interesting one, if the saw spins over ok with the plug removed then it should be just the compression causing the difficulty in turning it over! If you are stuck, pop it round and I can have a look at it as you are around 40 mins away!
-
When you replaced the clutch drum, did you align the small cut out with the arm on the oiler worm? Did the clutch come off to replace the springs? Is the clutch drum free moving?
-
The exhaust won't be causing it unless the carb has been tuned for a knackered exhaust. Have you adjusted the carb low screw and idle? It should be the first thing to do. Did you inspect the piston when you changed the muffler, was it in clean un-scored condition?
-
Raffle draw this Sunday at 8pm
spudulike replied to Steve Bullman's topic in Arbtalk Christmas Charity Raffle 2015
Woo Woo excellent stuff:thumbup: -
I think that one was a cheap Chinese telescopic zoom, mil dot lit reticule special - works pretty well TBH, it holds accuracy with no issues!
-
Blocked fuel tank breather most likely, possibly an issue with the inlet manifold - common on these saws. Possible the motomix has purged the crap out of the fuel tank and deposited it in the carb so check the internal gauze filter which is another common saw issue!
-
My £100 special - came rifle only(S300) for that price without the silencer and tele but was an absolute bargain - Airarms offer a decent product for a price that fits. Converted from a single shot to magazine with a Rowan Engineering adaptor - some call it the S305!
-
Well that is probably Sawbits then - if so, Mike is one of the best ebayers for aftermarket parts and helps when stuff like this happens!
-
Yes, my money would be on that. The crank will still move relatively smoothly if the side loading hasn't been released but would overheat PDQ when being used. This would then cause the bearing to disintegrate in a short time but can't 100% discount a faulty bearing! The crank movement should be silky smooth with almost zero resistance if the bearings are fitted correctly but the NEW seals will make the crank have more resistance once fitted. I guess when you have had so many machines apart, you have a "feel" towards what to expect from a machine in good condition and what it should be like! Tap the crank ends with a copper mallet or semi lightly with a mid size hammer and feel the difference in the crank movement - you will know when it is right!
-
would you know where to go for bearings for a ms260... the flywheel side is not a problem but the clutch side is not so easy to find...it was either original or cheap chinese. thanks john. The bearings will be marked with their inner, outer bore and depth. The issue is when the outer race is double depth and has a seal to push in to it or the bearing is a weird non standard size! There are many bearing online outlets but some bearings are impossible to get from quality manufacturers like SKF .....like MS660 clutch side. Your options are aftermarket or original - as the other poster said - big job generally calls for OEM despite the cost. Just done a MS660, £50 worth of bearings but the job will last for years if the machine is treated correctly.
-
The place I flew the Steppe/Bald cross said they had a Bald Eagle and it wasn't the beak - someone was holding it and they got its talons in their neck.....now that is nasty, damn sharp and powerful, built to take prey off the ground in flight......ouch!
-
Is this Bond.........James Bond.....licenced to......mould plastics:001_rolleyes: The link looks like it goes to "Hangplas" a coat hanger manufacturer so perhaps Jimmy Bond is licenced to......HANG:lol:
-
I would say that either the bearing was substandard/faulty/of incorrect specification or there was still inherent pressure on the bearings from the rebuild and this heated the bearing (I see the paint has bubbled through heat) and done them in. Whenever I have changed mains, the crank tends to be a bit tight once the crank sides are bolted together and this is relieved by tapping the ends of the crank to and fro which generally loosens up the bearings to the point you can turn it easily by twisting the crank ends with your fingers. You are just making sure the bearings are running true in their races rather than having lateral tension within them from the clamping together of the case sides. I reckon the bearings still had tension in them and the heat destroyed one before it could bed in! Other than that - use a reputable manufacture of bearings or OEM!
-
Looks like the inner cage broke up. Did you tap the crank ends on both ends when the machine was assembled to loosen the bearings? Was the crank free running after rebuilding? Were the bearings oiled on assembly? Were they the right way round I regards to the race inner shield?
-
I have flown a Bald Eagle Steppe Eagle cross breed, big big birds, around 9lb but weightless when the open their wings in to the wind. Hope the patient does well, these birds of prey need strict diet control when in captivity
