spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Having a rule of thumb is ok but you can't just open up ports as some have limitations such as skirt size and ring ends plus there is a known two stroke tuning rule on port size and I personally stick to this rule as it has seen me well! I don't get too hung up on the exhaust outlet to exhaust port size, you are just increasing flow and trying not to make the saw stupidly noisy! Looks like the cut off saw has run to conclusion! Personally I find chainsaws nicer to use!
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You have to love them don't you:001_rolleyes:
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Not to date, I have done strimmers, hedge cutters and blowers though! It would probably port up ok!
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I agree with Barrie, never seen a split pipe on these machines, usually pretty tough!
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Dude, they must be damn high log heaps:lol:
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Looks about par for one of your saws - try a bit of cleaner on them:001_rolleyes: Glad it worked out OK and hope it stays that way for her!
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From the album: Logo
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You tend to find that with Aspen you need a tweak anticlockwise on the L screw otherwise you can get a bit of bogging - my take on this is that it just burns slower than petrol hence the need for a little more fuel on the low screw. If the machine has run pump fuel for a year or more, you may find that you get fuel leaks where the fuel line seals on the fuel tank also the diaphragms can go hard. Probably best to do the change, see if the machine plays up and if it does and a carb tweak doesn't work then just change diaphragms, fuel line and clean the carb with carb cleaner and try again. If the carb has an accelerator pump then I would change the O ring but that can be a real job!
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Plastic block - is that the cylinder block????
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Just remove the side cover and see how wobbly the clutch drum is! Ultimately the oiler will stop working if left!
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Sharp knife and if they are loose on refitting, bend and refit You shure you are up to this:lol:
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Interlink and Parcelforce have been fine with me but had one Interlink delivery to Ireland go bad in a big way but they use a third party partner in Southern Ireland. I think all are good and bad, the drivers have no time to find places and once you have used them once or twice, are generally good and polite guys!
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The mounting of the coil on most modern machines gives the ignition timing as well as the voltage for the spark where yours only gives the charge and the points give the ignition timing! It is possible but you will probably need to use a timing wheel, fabricate a timing scale and use a strobe.....oh, and get it running before this! Don't ask me how I know!
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If you pull the saw over saw 20 times with the choke on and the plug is dry then it must be a fuel issue. I would make sure that the choke flap is fully closed when the choke is put on. Other than that, the favourites are the internal gauze strainer in the pumping section of the carb and also check the metering arm height under the diaphragm. Both will cause this fault!
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Good job, nearly there, as far as painting it, if you do it, do it well or don't bother. There is nothing worse than a saw hand painted over battered casings!
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You need the interface box, the cables as well as the software. You can purchase the box etc but it is around £350 so not a cheap option unless you are a business!
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Never a problem Tom, glad it all worked out OKand that you are happy:thumbup:
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Think you should get down to the gym Barrie:lol: I usually find 038s are the worst!
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I have a 2x4" lump of wood that I clamp it to and then put it in my bench vice. Good thing is that I can put it away afterwards:thumbup:
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Hope it works out Barrie, personally I would still use that thread lock we were talking sbout as it is damn good but depends how tight the receiving thread was!
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You must measure the squish, usually done by using a piece of soft solder slid in through the plug hole and positioned to the front of the squish band and then just pull the saw over and then measure the flattened solder with verniers!
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Mat, I would get the new piston, slide it up the bore and make sure it slides over this damage unhindered and smoothly. If it is notchy or tight then rework it again. If you raise that port by a mm, you will alter the powerband and you will risk lowering the compression and making a gutless wonder that peaks at an unachievable rpm. Don't assume porting is just grabbing a dremmel and grinding the ports out a bit. There are limitations due to piston skirts and ring ends plus known maximum port size. Get these wrong and you may free port or snag a ring:thumbdown: If you havent done this before and know nothing about putting a decent bevel on port edges, just leave it as it is and just learn that sticking things in ports to remove clutches isn't clever! I hope it goes back together and works:thumbup:
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£150 - £175 if in good nick. You have to remember that you could pay near that for a Chinese saw, not get spares a year later and it will break. The Husky will be worth that in five years and spares will still be about one way or another. For someone doing a bit of logging.....worth every penny!
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Second on the blocked gauze filter. I have had a few in and it is either this or fine chip sitting under the diaphragm cover. The symptoms would point toward the internal gauze strainer! It has to be lack of fuel. The saw is getting enough for idle but not enough for high speed running. Other thing to check is the fuel line holed/split but that would be less common. Sometimes the impulse line can split but would expect the idle to be higher than normal with this and would chenge if the engine is flexed on the AV mounts to the rear handle/
