spudulike

Any acid - battery acid or brick cleaner or caustic soda, high power oven cleaner, sodium Hydroxide etc Acid or alkali will dissolve aluminium - if it fizzes on contact, it is doing the job:thumbup:

Yes, it looks very salvageable. I have taken 0.5mm of aluminium off cylinders before and got the engines singing again:thumbup:

Been working on a MS660 that had shattered a piston, the bore had a score on the inlet side but fortunately ended below the top of the exhaust port so well off the compression forming part of the bore. Tried turning the engine over and it locked up on one part of the stroke. Investigated this and found a piece of piston embedded in to the inner crankcase so removed it. Purged the crankcase cavity, ported the cylinder and then rebuilt it. It had a massive air leak and found the piece of piston had smashed through to one of the recessed turrets that the bolt locates in to under the flywheel, I filled this with JB weld and then found another leak in another turret - these are under the flywheel so not the easiest or most logical places to find leaks. Checked it out and think there is a hairline crack in the second turret so filled it with JB weld and now it is air tight and pretty strong as the wall of the crankcase is pretty thin and now supported by a tough epoxy resin. The saw now runs and is back from the edge of scrap:thumbup: The pic below is the punctured hole in the first turret.

I had a 357 in recently for porting as it was a bit boggy. A quick inspection showed an aftermarket P&C, the transfers were tiny, the lowers completely different from the original 357 and the piston fit was poor with 150psi compression. The meteor kit was a much better fit, had close to OEM transfer design and when ported, was keeping up with a 560XP so base my judgements on that. I find OEM and Meteor kit has a much tighter tolerance on piston to bore fit and therefore gives higher compression and more torque - Personally I would go with the better quality kit rather than cheaper bigger bore Chinese kits!

Yes, but not for some time. Think I purchased Meteor pistons from them but not sure TBH!

Yes, he is hardcore with his MS181 and Jonsered/Mcculloch saws - strange the way the saw kept revving with no one holding the trigger

I would use the originals unless they are badly scored through broken ring or circlip. Other than that, the Meteor kits are probably the best!

No way of telling visually. It is worth measuring the difference in diameter of the crankshaft where it runs on the bearing and where it doesn't. I have used a couple of aftermarket crankshafts on MS660s and they have worked OK with no issues! The only way I can tell if the rod is bent is to reuse it and see if the cylinder rocks from side to side when loose on an engine being pulled over. Bent cranks usually show up as a loose chain rising and falling as the engine is pulled over. Basic but it works!

I did tell you bud, just hanging around to see if anyone else can whack the nails in like I can:thumbup: Game, set and match I think:thumbup:

Ah, I will look forward to that:lol:

The dab of Chanel No 5 behind each side cover was appreciated

Even yours was nicer than this, even finding two stripped threads when finally putting the top cover on your saw and having to sort them was nicer:001_rolleyes:

The 346XP ticks many boxes, lots of shared parts with the 345/350/357 etc, it is a very popular saw so many made and many aftermarket parts so you will be pretty safe with one of these. The weakness of the saw is probably the inlet manifold. Some just split around the impulse connector and some are just badly fitted by so called mechanics!

Got a MS660 in for porting. Normally you expect the donor saw to be in reasonable working order but this one was a bit battered and pretty mucky under the covers. I removed the clutch drum and this is what greeted me, lots of muck so removed the clutch to find a heavy layer of what resembled gutter sealant. I pulled that much out that I rolled up a ball of it and put it in the photo - looks like a huge rabbit turd but smells of linseed:sneaky2: I was told by the owner that the saw had been serviced by the outfit that sold it to him.....not sure who I feel more sorry for.....me having to sort it or him having been lied to:thumbdown:

The old popular saws will have spares manufactured for them for a good while, if they sell in their thousands then OEM and aftermarket parts will be freely available for years! Just avoid the more obscure models!

Cleaning shyte off saws:001_rolleyes: Thought I would see what you guys came up with and then take the piss:lol:

By request.......I have one of these blowers, one thing to check is that the manifold has been put on back to front as it has a hole for the impulse and you can easily put it on the wrong way round - make sure the hole in the inlet manifold lines up with the hole on the cylinder and the carb. Mine had this issue and is probably the one to go for! Other than that - the bubbling suggests the needle valve may be leaking so worth pressure testing the carb and also check the fuel line is not split. If all the above fails - make sure all the gaskets on the carb are in the correct place - it is easy to get the pumping diaphragm one in the wrong place!

Ed - I would worry about damage to the rod, crank and both ends with the impact this one has gone through. Flush the bottom end out then turn the engine over very slowly with the flywheel and clutch off and try to feel any notchy or tight spots. You can take a punt but take care on the rebuild, if you don't bolt the top end down and spin the saw over, if the cylinder rocks from side to side, the rod is bent:thumbdown:

A bent crankshaft would either make the engine not run or would significantly scuff the cylinder bore pretty quickly!

Wonder how much you did:sneaky2: looks more fun than the 281XP I was working on!

This is the reason that many send their kit to me. Unless you really know why it failed, brain fade on using oil in the fuel for instance, if a saw has seized, it really needs pressure/vac checking, fuel system strip/inspect/clean and a final tach tune or by ear to ensure it won't just go again and take out the new parts. That is what I do on a full refurb, fixing a seized engine or port tune job! As others have said, if you can't do this then you change/inspect the impulse line, crank seals, manifold, fuel line and inspect the carb gauze filter. I do usually pressure check all the lines either when checking the engine or by removing them and checking if they are suspect. For the saw to seize, the leak must be relatively bad or the carb must be set a little lean - sometimes it is just an accumulation of an air leak, weak fuel/oil mix and a lean carb that makes them fail!

I burn most wood but even I would pass on this one. I wonder if the owner has a chain sharpener and this is how he gets his business:sneaky2:

Just PM me if you need any advice. The welch plug fix does work but care needs to be taken as the channels lead to the high speed check valve and can get blocked plus fuel has the habit of destroying glues and bonding agents despite their claims:001_rolleyes: The C1Q is a mystery to most but think I have the little buggers licked:thumbup:

Think I may just sell stickers for owners to stick on their saws! Do I stick "Turbo" on it for more show:001_rolleyes:

If you REALLY want one:001_rolleyes: