spudulike

Magneto....what is it, a 1960s French/Italian moped Sounds like the carb isn't delivering fuel correctly, check the metering arm and try giving it a bit of a lifting bend of 0.5mm but do check the carb internal gauze strainer first - the one under the alloy cover with a single screw holding it in place. I am making the assumption this is a BG85/86 and not one of the back-pack jobbies!

Good luck with this, from what I see, the saws generally only come in when they are totally knackered or someone wants their saw modified. Preventative maintenance was something that went out the window when I left my 22 years of manufacturing!! I am amazed that if you have say a top handle, 50cc and 70cc saw, that you would not get them serviced regularly if you haven't got backup saws but there you go and I am genuinely NOT looking for more work.

The biggest issue on these cheap toppers is that the uninitiated think they are "nice little saws" so may be safer due to them being more compact. Unfortunately they don't see that using them one handed leaves the other in a position where it can be cut off and when being used two handed, they afford much less control with your hands being so close together.

It always concerns me that you may break one of the legs off the boss using this method. A lot does rest on how often the clutch had come off in the past. Some are damn difficult and need "The BIG gun" to shift them...038s, 044s and O88s seem to be favourites to be locked solid.

Watch out on MS150s and also if the flywheel has been off prior to using an impact gun.....just saying!

Better keep the dealers names to yourself then!

An impact gun can shear the keys when used on some saws, MS150s are prone to this. You will need the service tool as previously mentioned to use an impact gun. Rope is OK as long as the piston covers the top of the exhaust port when inserted and does work OK. Not having a hex boss on the clutch is a loss on these saws as it makes life a lot easier.

I think it is the major manufacturers showing good practice when selling their saws through their dealerships and their is no law being broken if they do sell them not doing this but may have to legally defend themselves if a customer got hurt. I believe the same is present if you use a top handled saw, OK if you use one privately but if you use one commercially as a contract climber or employed climber, the company employing you should cover themselves to ensure they have made sure you are trained to use one safely and have the correct certificates to do so. Don't take this as fact but its what I believe where current legislation is at.

You should change the parts when they exhibit signs of wear such as deep indentations on the sprocket or rim, grooves around the inside of the drum or clutch shoes and wobble on the drum. Failure to change a worn drum or needle bearing will eventually take out the crank and effectively writing off your saw....seen it a few times now. Husky outboard clutches are not the easiest to remove but are made easier with using the correct wrench and I personally use rope in the bore on this model!

Usually happens when a stove has all the dampers knocked down, there is a good layer of hot embers and fresh wood is introduced. The embers heat the new log up, it produces gas and then ignites with a good old pop!

The 044 is an old saw so probably doesn't have staged ignition advances and retardation like the modern ones do. Check the coil to flywheel gap and you may find it a bit small. Unlikely the key has gone as you tend to get a non running machine or big backfires with this. You probably need to pull the rope with a bit more passion. Opening up the spark plug gap a little may also help.

The autotune can't be manipulated or changed by the dealer. You can reset the AT by running the saw hard and continuously for around 5 mins but that is about it. Aspen needs a bit of extra fuel on the low speed setting which is something a normal carb can be adjusted for but the AT kit can't be changed in the same way but would have thought it shouldn't be excessively bad running on Aspen.

Trouble is that I have done that on well running machines and it still stops them as the spray lowers the temperature in the manifold and affects the vapour causing the engine to stall. Not been a good test for me.

If moving a saw around makes the saw rev then it is most likely a split inlet manifold where the split is opening up when the saw is moved letting in more air. The carb is most likely set where you have shut off its low speed fuelling and are using the high speed circuit and the air leak to somehow compensate.....badly. Simple test is to get the saw idling as stable as you can then move the engine around whilst holding the fuel tank flat to the ground. If the revs significantly increase, expect a split manifold or possibly an impulse line. The saw is a bit of a mare to work on so good luck with that.

The clutch drum will always have a fair bit of float on it, you have to hold it against the clutch and move the whole assembly in and out showing if you have loose engine mounts. Other than this, check the mounting bolts themselves. Have you checked them yet?

Mmmm, had a few family things going on that were of major concern but now pretty much sorted, backed off work a bit during the summer and am looking at keeping work at a manageable level from now on rather than taking on everything that comes in. You have to keep the work life balance in perfect balance when you get to this time of life. Winter months are easy enough but summer is summer and holiday is holiday!

Nope, nobody has posted on it.....that's all. No conspiracy, just that the thread hasn't been used!

I was surprised this week, twice to be honest. I was sorting a bogging issue on a 260 I ported a while ago and it really pulled, a lot of pressure on the bar and it....pulled some more - well impressive. The 2nd time - a 560 I ported with a similar bogging issue which I think is a kinked fuel line when leaned on hard, full bore in a large lump of wood and the same, just kept pulling even though I was leaning excessively on it noodling hard. I rarely get to try my work out, I just mod them but they were pretty damn good tbh!

Always liked this Jeff Beck number, makes his guitar sing from around 3.40 onwards, interesting song - supreme guitarist IMO....

Worth checking the tightness of the engine mounts as I have seen plenty of in and out play on the clutch (not drum end float) that may cause such an issue and is a common issue on older saws. Just clamp the drum against the back of the clutch with finger and thumb then push the clutch in and out to see if the whole assembly moves in and out a bit. An intermittent kill switch will be a sign of loose engine mount bolts.

If the AVs are iffy then you may have pulled the impulse line (rubber pipe) from its connector just below the base of the cylinder between the cylinder and the back of the air filter box. It can happen on the MS460, 461, 361 260 etc - all of similar design. Normally a saw would start with the line off but it would give very poor running. You can try to start the machine and then strip the carb being carefully to lift the covers off one at a time vertically so you can see where the petrol is sitting - it will give you an idea of where the fuel isn't flowing and what the issue is!

Sounds like fuel starvation - one thing you could do is to remove the carb with a bit of fuel in the tank and see if fuel pisses out of the fuel line. If it doesn't, remove the fuel cap and push it back on and see if fuel comes out of the fuel line. It should and if it doesn't, you may have a split fuel line or dodgy filter. If it does - you probably haven't cleaned the carb properly - make sure the gauze strainer is removed, inspected with a magnifying glass and cleaned if necessary. Make sure the needle valve is opening and shutting properly and all the gaskets are in the right order - the thin plastic pump diaphragm sits next to the carb body (not cover) and the metering diaphragm has a spacer gasket between the body and the diaphragm. You can attach the fuel line and push the metering arm down and fuel should naturally come out from the slight pressure in the tank. Make sure the metering diaphragm isn't hard and make sure the metering arm is level with the body of the carb where the spacer diaphragm sits - use a ruler across the body to do this. Also, make sure the low speed adjuster is out as far as the limiters allow or 1.5 turn from fully in if no limiters are fitted. You could also have an impulse line that's come off, a massive crankcase air leak or issues with the plug, coil gap or coil, all can do this as can low compression! One last thing, make sure the throttle is being held open a bit on half choke - seen this fail and give this symptom before - it will fire if you hold the throttle open and pull it over hard.

The Stihl spec is to re-grease every 25hrs, not sure too many actually do this and the next step is to work out that a set of gears is ££££££££

Some nice person has replied to your PM

Sounds like the gauze strainer in the carb may be plugged with a bit of wood chip or fine dirt. The carb will need to be stripped, the gauze strainer removed, cleaned and replaced. It may be something else as you say the saw rarely starts on the choke so worth popping of the muffler and looking at the piston through the exhaust port. Any sign of vertical scoring and the piston may have seized.