Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

spudulike

Veteran Member
  • Posts

    15,041
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Everything posted by spudulike

  1. Read about the dangers, know how they are caused and then avoid the route causes. Kick back - avoid cutting with the bar tip, trip/slip hazards - switch the saw off or use the brake when walking about, pushback - learn about stress in fallen timber and bar pinching.....etc, etc The PPE will protect you from these scenarios but common sense will stop them happening in the first place. Bit like having an airbag but knowing following too close to the car in front may cause a rear end so you back off a bit.
  2. Sounds like it is running on the rich side, unusual as most manufacturers leave them on the lean side to meet emissions. Does it clean up in the cut? Is the air filter clean? Normally I would stick the correct tool on the H screw, rev it and use a tach but am guessing this isn't something you can do. Can the supplier retune it? One last thing to check, make sure the choke is fully open and not sticking partially closed, had this on MS200Ts before with a similar result.
  3. I would say between £25-60 depending on the age. I have two vintage McCullochs and neither cost me over £50 although one was a bargain. Vintage saws tend to only get big money if they are big capacity - 100cc and above or of non standard configuration such as two cylinders etc.
  4. I did say........!
  5. It will be expensive on parts and labour, can't see it being viable on an old machine even with a short bottom end replacement.
  6. If the saw is used for business and is a primary saw then it should get OEM, Meteor/Hyway, if it is seldom used and if it packs up it is of no consequence then fit whatever grabs you.....simple!!! I never just fit a piston ring as if you are in the engine, you often pay £10 for a ring or £25 for a decent AM piston so fit pistons....sorry.....just what I do!
  7. Difficult to say and would need to know that the machine also has good compression. One simple check on the L screw setting is to start the machine on the choke, let it pop then start it on the fast idle setting and it should rev like the throttle is open around 1/4 with a very obvious higher than idle revs effect. If it isn't doing this, the low screw is far too rich that could give you the symptoms you have. It sounds like you are missing the POP of the first signs of combustion and that may be a number of issues such as poor carb setting, lack of compression etc. If your machine has a decomp, don't use it and also, if it floods, remove the plug, turn the machine upside down, pull it over hard 5 times, replace the plug and then hold the throttle open fully and pull the saw over a few times and normally it will fire and run.....with lots of smoke.
  8. Made my "factory tool" from an old pallet, it worked, just need to think about these things.
  9. Got a little Black and Decker mains saw for using in the summer when people are in their gardens and a ported 395 is a bit loud. Works OK and fills the log store!
  10. And it needs to with the weather like we had today!!!
  11. Probably got it from Saga Magazine!
  12. Rule No1 of the saw club - vintage saws should be owned by people who can fix them
  13. I just test saws through the year and it tends to fill the log store pretty quickly.
  14. Damn, can't a man get some rest
  15. They do stop damage to the starter pulley etc.....just saying!
  16. Yup, made it myself and stuck a 6mm drill straight through the fleshy part of my thumb as a reward. You need to either have the factory tool or get inventive for the flywheel side!
  17. The 357 has stuffers, makes splitting them more difficult without the right tools.
  18. As Robert Plant sang.....and it makes me wonder.........
  19. Just fall in to it, slippers, nice cardie or tank top, bargain hunt on TV.....all good, embrace it.
  20. Is that supposed to be funny....I guess it may be.....of course you do
  21. I charged for a re-pack on the bin bag job and did get paid on both my non paid saws....in the end. In one case, it wasn't the money, it was the fact he pleaded he needed the saw, would definitely pay the bill the next day and like a mug, sent the bloody thing back, 6 weeks later I asked for the new cylinder kit on his machine to be returned as it was my property....he got the message in the end!!
  22. Just use a typical business card, that will do the job. Place it between the coil and flywheel magnets, let the magnets draw the coil toward the flywheel and do the screws up....pretty simple.
  23. Found it, the volcano spares system works again....part 1122 400 1204, definitely off an 064 but they had many variants so check the back first to compare part numbers.
  24. I think I have one somewhere in the garage but am damned if I can find it. Pull your flywheel and get the part number off the back. I think it is a thinner flywheel than the 066 one that I was after and may be able to dig it out with more time. I do know it is in decent condition.
  25. Sorry but this has to be done, not that it helps......

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.