One of the first things that should be done is a compression check as without it, you don't know what you have got and if you change the piston, how will you know if it has improved the situation at all - it will probably reduce the compression until run in. You are probably changing the coil and piston for no reason bar that the may possibly be an issue and most likely changing them with inferior quality aftermarket parts dubious manufacturer.
I have had a couple of saws where the bore ended up being very slightly oval, one had the piston fitted round the wrong way round and forget the other but I simply couldn't get the compression up to decent levels so the saws were hard to start and lacked any power. The only solution was to change the cylinder on these. A very unusual fault but it does happen and the compression gauge told me a story!
Compression and carb issues must make up a good 85-90% of issues in bad running saws, coils very rarely fail and if they do, you can get total failure, failing after a period of use or just the old limited revs failure where the saw won't rev up properly.
I appreciate you are trying but the way you are going, your saw will be like triggers broom, you will have nothing left on the saw that is original and will have spent a fortune on it.
Glad you sorted the flooding issue, the metering arm is the usual place to check along with the diaphragm on older machines.
When you say the machine lacks power: -
1) Does the chain stop in the cut AND the revs die to the point of stalling
2) Does the chain continue to run at high speed and the saw revs high but doesn't cut
3) Does the saw rev high but the chain speed slows right down in the cut
Be careful in answering the above because each has its own set of faults that will cause the symptoms.
I can sort of see why you are doing this but despair about where it may end up.
Diagnosis is a precise skill, some people have a shotgun approach, I prefer to align myself with the American Sniper, one shot, one part, one fix! I guess it is why people like what I do.
PS - If your JB is a rubbery compound, you are fine, if it is grey and rock hard like a grey araldite, you have cocked up.