spudulike

I would start at the basics, if you are getting some devices crashing and not others, the obvious question is why and is it down to the location of the devices etc. Is the complete internet going down or just connection to some devices. Are the devices well away from the router or are they all close? If it is certain devices then you will need to work out why...... The wall thickness and construction is an important factor, flint makes a pretty good Faraday cage and blots out most signals, dry lining stops pretty much nothing! Some devices will be poor at picking up WiFi signal, you can get software on a Lappy and see what the WiFi is giving you in regards to signal. Sometimes devices don't like some of the WiFi encryption ie WAP, WEP and the like, the older ones may not like the later types of encryption etc. From what I have read, the BT router is supposed to be one of the more stable and furthest transmitting ones. I have used Netgear and now Billion, they aren't really complicated TBH, I have only 3mbps in our village....30 miles from Londonand have had to get creative to get the best out of it. The Billion router allows you to monitor the signal coming in to your house and lets you see the upload and download signals using a piece of software as I mentioned which is useful as often if our internet is bad, the upload speed is very choppy. I guess there are people out there that will go through your system and make the necessary changes but here we go again.....there will be good and bad........

Lets face it, the public out there are unwashed lazy bastards that can't even put their rubbish in a bin, in the foot well of their car and then dispose it in a decent way. The idea of kids picking up litter, 100% agree with that as it will stop them dumping their litter on the countryside in their adulthood. It really boils my piss when people drive off leaving a pile of their shyte under their car to then blow around the car park. In the old days our parents would have given us a hiding for littering but now...... I wonder what would happen if I dropped a load of my rubbish in their front garden or bunged it through their litterbox.....sorry letterbox, bet that would raise a comment. I reckon if it wasn't McDs or KFC, it would be Costa, Starbucks or some other outlet so as long as the outlet has sufficient bins then they probably can't do too much apart from marketing campaigns on littering. Some of these lowlifes need to be disciplined as the hedgerows are becoming clogged with this crap lobbed out of cars! Lazy feckers!

I use a Billion router- Bipac 7800, the main reason is that you can run a program called "Router stats" that shows you your connection quality etc and you can also tweak your SNR (Signal to noise Ratio) which with ADSL can make a difference. TP link do those mains cable boosters Stubby is talking about and although I don't use them (the router has a big transmission range), I would if I needed it. Are you on ADSL or fibre? This router will cope with both and you can pick them up on eBay cheap enough. Setting it up...it is always an interesting one but it isn't too bad if you go online and get the settings from Google!

I never like doing this as if the saw has...an air leak, split fuel line, dirty air filter, old fuel filter etc etc.....it may go BANG And I know what the next question will be....It isn't good enough, I want my money back......I just avoid it!

More like she knows where you are (The Shed) and it is keeping you out of mischief like drinking or shagging other women plus it isn't that expensive!

Go for the Meteor kit (circa £95), check the inlet manifold is round where it joins the cylinder, it should be if it is a Special but sometimes recoil side covers are swapped so do check as the 365 had a square inlet union with the cylinder and needs a new 372 inlet manifold if converted. I haven't changed the carbs on the ones I have done and all tached up and ran as they should and have had none back so that should be OK as long as you do tune the saw correctly and take in to consideration that the saw will pick up revs once bedded in and may need a retune after a period of time.

Sounds expensive and a divorce will top it all

Part number - 1141 030 0400, looks like it is specific to the MS261 only. It is the cost (£165 ex VAT) plus the labour that kills any attempt to fix them. The work in splitting the bottom end of any saw is considerable and unless you are a good engineer, it will just not be economical to repair a mid cost saw like this.

Exactly, all those very important meetings our politicians have that go nowhere and mean nothing, business meetings that could be done by video conferencing etc and what about all those visits to Lapland over Christmas by over privileged kids, that's another 50,000 litres there and back by each plane!

Another easy target to make it look like something significant is being done. I think anyone taking a flight should be made to stay at their destination for a minimum of seven days. It would stop all these futile trips and using flights like busses. A plane will get through at least 20-30,000 litres per flight - that's a fair bit of pollution.

Unlikely unless it was caused by something else but stand to be corrected A good option is to whip the side cover and bar off every two months and give it the wobble test, changing the bearing if it does wobble.....put your thumb and finger on opposite sides of the drum and try to wobble the thing. If it wobbles 3-5mm on the edge then it is well on its way. If you put a new drum and bearing on your saw, just remember how it feels - only works if the crank isn't damaged though. Also, if you put the chain brake on and the machine stalls...investigate the issue as the bearing has probably collapsed.

I use a wicker cradle U shape basket, I have had it years, wasn't cheap but very sturdy. I used a piece of carpet (upside down Hessian up)to line it and it stops all the dust and bits falling through. Worth getting something made well as it will last a life time.

I reckon Matty is missing living 3 miles from me, I think the record was a buggered 357XP being dropped off around 8.00PM and being up and running for the next mornings work. I sort of miss those days for the entertainment, piss taking and he always bunged me a tip.....always the sign of a gent!

The Mtronic ones are always OK, It is the ones that had the conventional carb that were suspect. I have written off some tidy machines in the past through crank damage.

Glad it worked out, sometimes simple and sometimes a mare!

It is a Zama carb and only the early types had this auto decomp, the later cylinders had no union on them. I usually take it out, tap the hole and stick a bolt in it with Loctite although you can just stick a plugged cap over it.

If a later decomp has been fitted, the union on the back of the cylinder transfer will have to be sealed or removed and plugged.

Some of these saws are possessed. I believe the ones with the laser etched serial had their tanks purged with holy water driving out the evil saw spirit that resides in them.

The Mtronic versions are OK. My theory is that the cranks in the early versions of the 261 were faulty and also reckon Stihl put out that it was a sprocket issue to avoid a huge warranty return....there's a conspiracy theory for you but am not in the position to know! I have had various 261s in and some were getting through a sprocket and bearing every six months using new OEM sprocket and bearings. I have seen MS200s and 026s on original drum bearings so what happened??? Greasing the bearing - the grease will fly out in the first few minutes use. The metal caged needle bearings last longer as the needles stay in place longer but even these grenade after a while. Not sure how you measured the crank but you should take three readings using vernier callipers at points nearest the clutch, th emiddle of where the bearing sits and the bit closest to where the circlip sits. You can also look for pitting of the crank surface, any of this and your crank is shot.

That is a loaded question, ask me and I will say relatively easy as I have been there before, ask someone with no idea and you will get a different answer. Getting the spring back on is probably the most challenging issue and can be....fun. It is possible that one of the dowel mounts has failed but it may just need a bit of lube and a clean, It is also possible the handle guard latching parts have worn and you need a new one. The test I do is to push the brake on from the far left, middle and far right of the handle guard. The brake should snap on with similar effort used in all three places. Often the brake will fail on the side nearest the starter cover. The brake should also sound crisp and not come on with a dull thump.

They came in Walbro and Zama flavours, the Walbro suffers with accelerator pump issues, the Zama was the solution to the issue.

Try the Echo ones, they may just work!!

Blimey Matt, have you aged, I thought if it didn't work, you shouldn't stand underneath as the tool was likely to be thrown out of the tree I won't say anymore...HS86...damn...sorry!!!

Bite the bullet and if you like the saw that much, either rebuild it or buy another one in better condition!

We all look like that deep down