spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Par for the course me old mucker!
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Was sad about that as he had flown some hours and had a bit more sense than some. From memory the chopper had missed a service and a gearbox failed, not good in a chopper!
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I would like to see it pull over the old McCulloch
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Get them in deep so they don't dry out. I didn't and not many are still flowering
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The Stihl 181 is an OK saw for a bit of logging. It won't set the world alight but it will do the job OK. Spares also won't be an issue as Stihl have a good supply chain and there will be many of these saws being used for Domestic and light Professional use.
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Hope this cast don't end up the same way as the last, one died in a helicopter crash (mechanical failure), One cancer and another fatal car crash etc
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Or is it just Arbtalk users
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These coil flywheel changes are a pain. It is usual to have the magnets meeting the coil at pretty much TDC but had a Stihl blower once where it was around 180 degrees out and with the wrong coil, you go some good backfires! Get the incorrect combination and the engine just won't work as it should, may cause possible engine damage or simply won't start. I set the ignition timing manually on my 066 once, got it completely wrong and by the noise the engine made when I started it, swear it would have grenaded if I gave it any revs
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Nothing to be scared of really, you just turn it in very small increments, capo on the first fret, push on the last and tap both the E strings to ensure there is a bit of relief. If you get a bit of fret buzz, especially near the machine heads, you can often get rid of it with a bit of a tweak. Just don't go stupid and most adjustments are usually under 1/8th of a turn plus on my Artcore, clockwise tightens the truss and on the Ibanez S970, it is the opposite but it is obvious if you take it very easy. The good thing about Ibanez is they have a quick access hatch on the adjuster, a flap that is pushed to one side, a very nice touch. You need to usually tweak them if you change string gauge anyway.
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Damn, I thought you were looking for an accountant!
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Well that didn't last, now got a fret rocker, fret beam and crowning file as the Artcore had a buzzy B string on frets 3 + 4. Set to the Ibanez Artcore 73 and ....well....interesting, super low action and by that, I view around 1.5mm on the 12th fret as being relatively good but am now at circa 1mm on top and low E string now, a real big difference and playing is a joy. I quite like working on guitars, no wood chip and crap to deal with.
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That's because 5 years on the latest saws is about it. Older saws like this, the MS460 etc will keep bopping well after the lights have gone down on your MS500/MS462/572XPs etc.
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Damn, some people give in pretty easy. One of the best 70cc saws produced and it is being dumped. I would fit a new Meteor piston, lightly hone the bore and get another 10-15 years out of it. I would have done a compression check before tearing it down and if it was 160+ then all is good. 150 and lower then it is time for a new piston. The bottom ends are pretty solid as is the rest of the build. It just needs a bit of a clean.
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Check the impulse line an the fuel hose where it pushes through the tank wall as they are prone to split there. Other than that, if the limiters are off the carb, perhaps it has been tuned by an "expert". It could just be dodgy fuel mix but the saw will need a full check over otherwise you will end up with another failure. Once saw a 346 that came in with three destroyed top ends......I found the big end had failed before fitting a fourth!
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Most saws will be tuned between 13-15Krpm so to hold 14k in the cut, you would either be holding the saw up in the cut, shifting very little chip on a very narrow kerf or have something like a true custom hot saw powered by some sort of cart or bike engine etc capable of hitting high revs and having so much power that the drag of cutting has negligible effect on chain speed.
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8 pin V 7 pin, the 8 is only faster if the revs can be kept on the power band. Any bogging and the race is lost with much depending on the length, kerf and type of chain fitted! Stick an 8 pin on a 660 with a 20" bar...deep joy, do it on a 36" and not so joyous.
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I learnt about cheap cranks from a scrimping customer who wanted a cheap crank in his 660, one sheared I half, one big end grenaded and then I fitted a new OEM crank, lasted a year and some scrote then stole it!!!! If it is a primary saw then there isn't really a choice bar Meteor or possibly Hyway on top ends.
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Same for non paying customers, lump hammer and insulation tape....usually works after one knee cap goes
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Looks very nice but you know what people are like, they like Chhhheeeeeeeeppppppp and wouldn't know quality if it hit them on the head from a great height!! Prepare to be disappointed and any positive will be good. Probably eBay may be the best option and do it on a £1 total fee weekend.
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The 020T had a big lump of triangular plastic on the chain brake cover that acted as a catcher. If this has been replaced with the later cover, just fit an MS200T catcher.
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obviously not, anyone want a lump hammer...cheap?
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Winter is good for me time wise for any work. The bit about if it isn't broke - had this out with a tool maker once and my reply.....so you never change the engine oil in your car then??? A bit of maintenance can actually can save a lot of money, I have had to scrap saws through a cheap clutch bearing not being changed when it should and the crank then wore and the saws were scrapped as the owners didn't see the issue as an issue.
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I think this is the little blighter - Rope Rotor for Stihl BG66, BG66C - 4241 195 0400 | Stihl Parts WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Rope rotor/pulley Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 4241 195 0400 Suitable for the following Stihl Machines: BG 66, BG 66...
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Damn, so that's how you should do it
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The meaning of life...lets start with that!
