spudulike

The end drive shaft has a bush on it that locates in the strange bearing carriers on these machines. This bearing has probably failed - people don't service them or grease them so they go pop. If you look after them, they look after you. Local customer had two, one went pop all over the place, most bearings buggered, the other I had serviced 2 years ago - all the bearings were still greased and in good condition - the drive shaft had twisted though - hedge trimmer attachment!!!! They are an "Acquired Taste" to work on, the parts diagram is a bit pants!

Funny you say that, it is ear splitting, far louder than any of the vintage McCullochs. I fitted a tail pipe and it becomes the quietest saw out!

You ask an engineer a question, you get a technical response? The 064 flywheel fin is 30mm wide by the way! Not sure on the 066, mine is hanging off the workshop ceiling with a big expansion chamber on it!

Just had word that an 066 Magnum I refurbed for a local customer that was then sold to A N Other has been stolen from him. The saw was distinctive - full wrap handle, Magnum plastics and I think the Stihl stickers were Canadian, DEFINITELY NOT UK spec - if one comes up, let me know - the inner air box was newly fitted so may look fresher than the rest - sorry, no Serials etc

Either an 066 or 064 - old from the lack of decomp and air filter design. Probably an 064 - I believe the 064 had a thinner flywheel and side cover than the 066. If you pop the muffler off, you can use a plastic nozzle pushed up against the inlet side of the bore, flat against the piston crown, raise the piston and nip the nozzle between the piston and exhaust port. You then measure the end of the nozzle to the nip mark and if 52mm = 064 54mm = 066! If you measure the thickness of the flywheel on the fin ends, I can compare with a spare one I have here!

So what happened to the boys out metal detecting gig? I found a princely sum of £4 on the beach a couple of weeks back, all time record, enough for two bags of chips.....swell!! Should we talk about pin pointers - Personally I find them very useful!

Nothing personal but sod off!!!!?

Mmmm, just like that 380 I did....... use a bit of liquid gasket around that O ring - the seal will have probably gone hard as well! The joys of old machines!

Probably the clutch drum and nothing much else. There will typically be 5-6 of them, two at the front of the saw and four around the crank area. They should all be pretty tight but they may have come loose and is relatively easy to find out. If you look around the area, you may be able to get a ball end allen key in to the screws to test them without removing too much but typically the drum and possibly the oil pump will need to come off! Remember the left hand thread on the clutch - clockwise to remove!

266 - 1981-1990 in case anyone is interested - that's Rick Astley and Kylie territory!

I have just done a CD380 - yup it breaks my "owners of vintage machines should know how to fix them" rule but fixing it came with a hefty bill - well hefty in terms of the value of the machine but the owner was a bit attached to it! This machine had a BIG air leak and after sealing the PTO side seal and auxiliary seal, it still leaked badly and eventually found the leak was between the cases due to loose screws (rare) - pretty much all the screws were loose. I cranked them all down and it sealed 100% - on a more valuable saw I may have done a full strip but on a 40 year old saw.........! The saw worked out just fine, big bill but it is a big saw in good order now! Anyway - CHECK THE CRANKCASE SCREWS, crank them all down and hopefully, they will be loose and on tightening, you may be lucky and get a good seal and the gasket will be stuck to the jointing face and not sucked in to the crank case or oil tank cavity.

Excellent!!!

Just go to L&S with the correct machine type and if not in stock, they will get it in. If you open an account, they have online parts diagrams and you can phone to get a rough ETA on the part if not in stock. They mainly do OEM kit and a small bit of aftermarket.

2004 and 2150 look pretty similar to me with my colour matching printers eye!

Better than lobbing it in the nearest skip, nice job. I have found this to be a close match and pretty tough - PlastiKote Super Gloss Orange 400ml 1117 for sale online | eBay WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for PlastiKote Super Gloss Orange 400ml 1117 at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

I remember Frank Skinner waxing lyrically about the Paddington Bear film when he took his son to see it so watched the second one last Christmas and the first one a few months ago. I have to say they are fine films, very funny, great humour, great casts and really worth watching and that is from someone whose fave films are Mad Max, Italian Job and Aliens! So.....DONT MISS IT!!!

Probably a MS181?

If a saw will idle OK but as soon as you try to give it revs, the engine dies, there is probably an issue with delivering fuel on the high speed circuit. Issues may be fuel line split, fuel filter, dirt in the carb gauze strainer, H screw not turned out enough, blocked fuel tank breather, stuck check valve, perforated pump diaphragm. Start with the gauze strainer and then move to the less likely options.

It is an XTorq so not so many options available!?

Flooding will be caused by trying to pull the engine over too many times on full choke or if it is doing it by itself without trying to start it, it will be the needle valve. I think those Clarke gauges are for cars and unsuitable for small engines.

120psi sounds a bit off to me, 150+ is more like it. What gauge are you using and what does a good saw measure with it? Carbs flooding would be due to a weak needle valve spring, a poorly adjusted metering arm or a dodgy metering diaphragm.

Yup, but depends on what you call old!

Always a great feeling getting an old banger going: - VID_20200422_165510095.mp4

Did he say nipple?

Always tackle nests at dusk as the wasps are knackered and sleepy by then. I have found the white powder wasp killer pretty good. Wrap up well when doing it, you can fabricate a puffer with a jar, line in, line out and a compressor. You can then use a long bit of conduit pipe or similar to keep away.