spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Just get a pic of it and put it on the site. Include one of everything that is within 40' of the trunk so we can see if anything is likely to be clouted if it goes wrong. Look at the trunk for lean and get a photo of this as well - it builds up a picture of risk and the guys on here will give you stick......no sorry....advice on how to mitigate it! I have felled similar small trees, one in close proximity of my neighbours house but it had good lean (away from the house), used a rope and it fell bang on where I wanted it. I have also seen disasters (by others) on roped branches that have gone completely and unexpectedly in the wrong direction with damn near fatal consequences! Pictures will help get the correct advice. BTW - I fix saws but tend to only cur firewood!
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If it is in the middle of a field or in the middle or a large garden...fill your boots, if it is near something of value, you may want to review this. It depends on what is around it and also if it has "a bit of a lean" in the right direction or not. A wise man knows his limitations as I am sure some bloke in the know once said!
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What can go wrong??
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Good job, sorry about your mate, you do what you can and am sure he would have appreciated it.
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I believe it should be "Spaz" or "Spacky" if I remember correctly from my school days...it has been a while! Mong....not heard that in decades!
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Retards...not very PC eh Joe?
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I think he is just using the bolts to hold the engine together whilst the liquid gasket dries thus holding the engine together when fitting in to the plastic cradle. You couldn't leave the nuts on the bottom unless you modify the cradle and reckon it would significantly reduce the strength!
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I don't tend to wear carabiners or strops when in the workshop? Perhaps I could start servicing Mission Impossible like, hanging off the ceiling!!!?
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Ha, that's an easy one, the best way to get your saw clean......CLEAN OFF ALL THE FECKING CRAP BEFORE IT GETS BAKED ON.......oh......AND STOP USING CHEAP SHYTE CHAIN OIL!!!!! BUY A SODDING COMPRESSOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! White Spirit and a paint brush then blast it off REGULARLY...it isn't rocket science! I have never found any solvent or fluid that will shift this sort of thing, a 3.5-4mm drill in a dremmel is about the only thing that shifts it!!! That and a sharp craft knife! Not directed at Ian but at all the guys that send me saws like that calling them "looked after"......REALLY!!!!!!!! Rant over....not wheres that G&T?
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Thanks for the vote Mr Stubby?
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You do know you can use the top of the starter handle to undo the fuel and oil caps.......don't you???
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Well, I did say? Glad it worked out OK...another win!
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It is a bastard Andy, I didn't see my father from April to the time he died in hospital (non Covid in this case). Robbed doesn't come close to it!
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I would never look at changing the accelerator pump before I looked at the pump diaphragm and the gauze strainer. No 1 they are much simpler items to check and No 2, they are more likely to have failed than the pump unless the saw is 6 years plus old and heavily used. Oh....but what do I know?
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Although it pains me, you are correct, only seen the 2nd one a handful of times - the first was the best and the sequels got worse and worse - the 2nd was pretty good and the rest, pretty dodgy. The dog came along in the 2nd one and had a go at the Gyro Copter fella - makes it MM2! Looking forward to seeing all those Z1000 and GS1000s on the road in 2021!!
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If you have cleaned the bore it will work fine.....been talking to my mate Mystic Meg, got her crystal ball in my workshop, some of you on here are dirty boys btw?
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I must have seen that film 20-30 times, one of the all time greats......IMO although I am sure some will say Mamma Mia or the Sound of Music are theirs!!!
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Yup, met up a few times, nice bloke and also a very knowledgeable fella...well done!
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Check the compression is OK, if you can't, pop off the muffler and look at the piston thought the exhaust port making sure the piston isn't scored. Change the plug. Change the fuel filter and service the carb with s new carb kit. If you can't do this, give it to someone else to do.....preferably not me unless you are local!
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All I have plastered is artexed fracking ceilings, bloody pain in the posterior. Couldn't believe how much easier it is on a flat surface.
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I would slap in a Meteor £40 piston, do all the ancillary work I mentioned earlier and put some hours on it. Big engines suffer a lot less from this sort of thing compared to smaller engines. You should be able to delete the base gasket as well which should help but check the squish first.
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I would stick a new piston in it. I think you will be surprised with how well it will work. The damage under the port looks light and is much less likely to cause issues than the inlet side which would cause lots of blow back and leakage on crankcase primary compression. If you haven't, lightly hone it with a rotary hone and see if you can get a Meteor, Hyway or Golf/Vec piston in that order! Engines don't see that the bore isn't visually pleasing. They just work on compression made hot and cold etc. Make sure you pressure and vac test then service the fuel system and tach the saw a bit rich to let it all bed in!
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Just make one with 0.5mm gasket paper! It may have been deleted to up the compression, especially if there was liquid gasket used!
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Sharp wood chisel on the old gasket. My money is still on old oil causing Mega compression, seen that before. It is usually this or fuel in the crankcase causing a lock. Just reassemble after cleaning the bore with WD40. Use no oil and try it again. Reckon it will be back to normal!
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DB Schenker, I used to use a company called Bax Global to ship in to Dell Limerick many years ago when in my former job. They got taken over by DB Schenker...reminded me of Michael Schenker of UFO fame! Bax Global were good, not used Schenker for many years!
