spudulike

Same system on the 572XP. The design cuts down on the width of the saw as the point of seal is on the bearing rather than a way down the crank hence it being used on many saws. Many 346s I have done have needed this seal replacing, much more so than saws of similar age of different design.

Pressure test the fuel line or just replace it. It sounds like that the carb draws in air through a split or hole in the line once not submerged in fuel - most likely reason! It may possibly be issues with the pump diaphragm or shyte in the gauze strainer but the level of the tank shouldn't effect these issues.

That's not very good. The seals push in to the bearings same as the 346, 576, 560 etc. I can't say I like the design as I find that the thin seals don't last as long as ones pushed in to the crankcase that are further away from the heat and fluids from the bearing. Saying that, the 660/460 seal design (pushed in to the bearing clutch side) with a much larger seal seem very reliable.....and cheaper! Very strange that the seal is leaking after such a short time - pretty easy manufacturing job to push the seal in to the bearing correctly.

I just use High Temp Lithium grease. Does the job!

That's strange, I have seen twisted cranks before and the output shaft wobbles when rotated due to the twist but it is rare, one 346 and can't remember the other machine type, think it was a 660. Let us know what you find.

Probably different sets of coils and flywheels. Had that with a blower once, the thing sparked when the magnets were around 180 degrees from the coil. Check to see if there are two types available. Highly unlikely the crank has twisted.

Nice?

It isn't like the Stihl unit where you can just change a small solenoid. The usual method of fault finding on these saws is to see what fuel the AT unit is giving the saw and then diagnose what the fault may be. If there is a big air leak, the AT unit will adjust the fuel to be rich to cope with it. If the saw is holding high revs on idle, I would check the throttle linkage and the tightness of the cylinder bolts to start with. And go from there. Strange a new coil and carb didn't work and can see why the saw is being pressure and vacuum tested now. Any new carb needs to be programmed with the CST software and then set to the machine with 5 mins flat out running!

You need to use a paint brush and white spirit on the dirty parts, put the saw in to a booth, box, large card board box etc and use an air line, anything else is just slow and laborious. You need to be a bit smarter to catch as much crud as you can but it still gets everywhere.....!!

The end drive shaft has a bush on it that locates in the strange bearing carriers on these machines. This bearing has probably failed - people don't service them or grease them so they go pop. If you look after them, they look after you. Local customer had two, one went pop all over the place, most bearings buggered, the other I had serviced 2 years ago - all the bearings were still greased and in good condition - the drive shaft had twisted though - hedge trimmer attachment!!!! They are an "Acquired Taste" to work on, the parts diagram is a bit pants!

Funny you say that, it is ear splitting, far louder than any of the vintage McCullochs. I fitted a tail pipe and it becomes the quietest saw out!

You ask an engineer a question, you get a technical response? The 064 flywheel fin is 30mm wide by the way! Not sure on the 066, mine is hanging off the workshop ceiling with a big expansion chamber on it!

Just had word that an 066 Magnum I refurbed for a local customer that was then sold to A N Other has been stolen from him. The saw was distinctive - full wrap handle, Magnum plastics and I think the Stihl stickers were Canadian, DEFINITELY NOT UK spec - if one comes up, let me know - the inner air box was newly fitted so may look fresher than the rest - sorry, no Serials etc

Either an 066 or 064 - old from the lack of decomp and air filter design. Probably an 064 - I believe the 064 had a thinner flywheel and side cover than the 066. If you pop the muffler off, you can use a plastic nozzle pushed up against the inlet side of the bore, flat against the piston crown, raise the piston and nip the nozzle between the piston and exhaust port. You then measure the end of the nozzle to the nip mark and if 52mm = 064 54mm = 066! If you measure the thickness of the flywheel on the fin ends, I can compare with a spare one I have here!

So what happened to the boys out metal detecting gig? I found a princely sum of £4 on the beach a couple of weeks back, all time record, enough for two bags of chips.....swell!! Should we talk about pin pointers - Personally I find them very useful!

Nothing personal but sod off!!!!?

Mmmm, just like that 380 I did....... use a bit of liquid gasket around that O ring - the seal will have probably gone hard as well! The joys of old machines!

Probably the clutch drum and nothing much else. There will typically be 5-6 of them, two at the front of the saw and four around the crank area. They should all be pretty tight but they may have come loose and is relatively easy to find out. If you look around the area, you may be able to get a ball end allen key in to the screws to test them without removing too much but typically the drum and possibly the oil pump will need to come off! Remember the left hand thread on the clutch - clockwise to remove!

266 - 1981-1990 in case anyone is interested - that's Rick Astley and Kylie territory!

I have just done a CD380 - yup it breaks my "owners of vintage machines should know how to fix them" rule but fixing it came with a hefty bill - well hefty in terms of the value of the machine but the owner was a bit attached to it! This machine had a BIG air leak and after sealing the PTO side seal and auxiliary seal, it still leaked badly and eventually found the leak was between the cases due to loose screws (rare) - pretty much all the screws were loose. I cranked them all down and it sealed 100% - on a more valuable saw I may have done a full strip but on a 40 year old saw.........! The saw worked out just fine, big bill but it is a big saw in good order now! Anyway - CHECK THE CRANKCASE SCREWS, crank them all down and hopefully, they will be loose and on tightening, you may be lucky and get a good seal and the gasket will be stuck to the jointing face and not sucked in to the crank case or oil tank cavity.

Excellent!!!

Just go to L&S with the correct machine type and if not in stock, they will get it in. If you open an account, they have online parts diagrams and you can phone to get a rough ETA on the part if not in stock. They mainly do OEM kit and a small bit of aftermarket.

2004 and 2150 look pretty similar to me with my colour matching printers eye!

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