doobin

Not really any benefit to that in my mind. Still have to shovel. And it won’t fit on the Sherpa!

You won’t go wrong with a mini loader. My Sherpa has done 140 hours since I got it, and every hour is multiple hours of labour saved.

You’d mount the brackets and reinforce as necessary to make it work. Or if easier you could just mount the engine the other way around on the other side to spin the shaft the other way. piece of cake 😉

Just tried and you're right. Marginally slower than my 30l/min beaver pack, but marginally more pressure which I'd say makes it better overall. Thinking about it logically, that would be what you'd expect seeing as both machines use a GX390 engine.

Loving the tracked dumper conversion. What’s the flow like? keep thinking about mounting my splitter on the Sherpa. But it’s an 18t splitter and 20l/min flow. Doesn’t sound like a good combo.

Rock machinery. The 125 model. I’ll let you know what it’s like when it gets here, but their pto stump grinder is seriously impressive, especially considering the purchase price. We are not really tree surgeons, so our only chipper currently is a wee chipper. Tractor mounted made a lot of sense for the larger jobs we do, but it’s still overall a small chipper. I could have gone for the larger model but wanted to be able to run it on the 26hp compact.

To be fair, your machine should have the flow to be reasonable. I'd take a look at your choice of flails, as this can make a big difference. The flails are probably light L-shaped flails? Try some heavier swinging paddles.

Yup- as I alluded to, expensive piston motors with the swash plate set to the optimum for the machine/implement flow balance. Doesn't mean that they will work well- there are still horrendous losses in even an optimised hydraulic system compared to PTO drive, and low HP to start with compounds this.

You'll get a second hand compact tractor and flail for less than the cost of the loader flail. I don't know why people insist on using a loader for tasks that could be acheived with a compact tractor. A hydraulic PTO is so inneficient, and 3-pt linkage attachments are way, way cheaper. Even secondhand, an Avant flail commands strong money due to rarity- probably £2.5k You can pick up tractor flails for £1k all day long. My Kubota compact has been a great purchase, way more useful than I dreamed. In the last two years I have bought: Flail collector- £800 Second flail collector plus scarifier blades- £1200 Vacuum grass collector to pick up from the mid mount deck- £250 PTO driven deep aerator- £500 Topper (new)- £800 Stump grinder (new)- £1800 Mole plough- £400 Firewood processor- £4500 Heavy roller- £250 Fertiliser/seed spreader- £250 PTO generator- £400 Roller fed chipper (new)- £2500 All those attachments are available to fit a loader, but you'd be very lucky to find them second hand and they would cost five to ten times as much new (really not an exaggeration, £8k for the Avant flail collector!) I can provide a huge range of services with gear that cost me peanuts. A loader is to load and carry (and they are great at it). A tractor is to run implements requiring power efficiently. You won't run any sort of flail on a Sherpa or Cast. Even the 22hp option only puts out 28l/min. A 1.5t mini digger puts out 30l/min, some claim that their 1.5t runs a flail great but lets be honest, they don't really. They can only slew- any other movement robs all the flow. You need very expensive piston motors on the flail to get even a reasonable performance. As the little loaders have hydraulic drive, you simply won't be able to drive and flail, it'll be like tracking and flailing on a mini digger which is widely acknowledged as impossible. In your circumstances, I appreciate that a compact tractor won't work (width). I'd get yourself an engine driven flail like they use behind or in front of quads, and fit loader brackets to it. That would be very effective. You could also consider a two-wheel tractor with flail mower, or a Scag/Ferris self propelled pedestrian flail.

And plastic parts instead of metal

Any experts? @Alycidon

Sorry 😁 but ‘drop starting’ a chainsaw just conjours up an image of a fat pikey (is there any other kind?) in shorts, holding the rope in one and and throwing the chainsaw with the other. I start all my saws, even from cold by holding the handle between my legs.

Cowboy 🤣

Only pros liked this post… 😉

I have no idea where that is, but that is one cool town name.

If there's one thing worse than neighbour tree disputes, it's neighbour fence disputes. If there's even a hint of a boundary issue when quoting a fencing job, it's always all the money up front and a decent email trail. Sometimes I like to send some of the 'rougher' lads and unmarked vans for contentious hedge jobs, just to stir the shit if I don't like the neighbour either 🤣

If it helps, I wanted to do right by the planet and switched to Norther Arb bio oil. Ended up burning it in the yard stove, it was just useless. Would have wrecked bars in short order had I continued. Now back on mineral until someone finds a bio that works! 😞

What do you think the can the oil comes in is made of? Manuals are for the guidance of wise men and the unswerving obedience of fools (but mainly for 101 different get-out clauses for the manufacturer)

Think you might need some new tracks mate!

I'm a huge fan of the MS462, but wouldn't pass up a go on a 500i to see the difference.

Every time I get on my Multione or my Sherpa I think ‘I love this machine!’ Loaders are so efficient. I loaded these monster oak logs with it the other day.

I have worked out that my pto grinder will fit almost as if made to measure onto my Sherpa loader. Add a 29hp Loncin engine… 😎🤣

Thanks. I’ve not done any ‘proper’ stump grinding, but I’m amazed just of ‘sharp’ these are. Less grinding and more cutting when you lower it into the work.

Not the best pics (camera buggered) but here you go

It's cheap shite from Aldi, what did you expect? And as regards the stripping screws issue- sounds like you are trying to drive Phillips heads (old screws from the Dad style box of scrap screws) with a Pozi bit. Get new screws, and get reasonable quality PZ2 and PZ3 bits. You're asking a lot from a drill driver to drive long screws without a decent bit and also a lot of pressure behind to keep it in the head. The whole reason for impact drivers (as opposed to impact wrenches) is that the impact prevents 'cam out'- when the bit strips the screw head. This is different from an impact wrench, where the socket is not going to slip and the purpose of the impact is to loosen a tight machine thread. People think an impact driver is for more torque- it's not. It's to deliver sufficient torque in a controlled manner (without cam out). If you are putting a coach screw, timberlock or similar (with a bolt head) into timber, a heavy duty drill will do it quicker than an impact wrench so long as you can hang on. To be honest, you should have just bought a budget level drill and seperate impact driver from one of the big brands and you'd not have any of these issues. If you insist upon persisting with the Aldi drill, screws are available with a Torx (star type) head. With the right bit, you'd be able to drive these in with just a drill without suffering from cam-out nearly so much. Trouble is, a few boxes of them will cost as much as you paid for the drill! 🤣🤣