doobin
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Everything posted by doobin
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First grinding (rather than pulling!) job so bear with me. What's the going rate for a pair of Leylandii stumps around 24" diameter? I'm thinking around £300 plus VAT, is that a bit steep, not enough or about right? I can get the compact tractor and PTO grinder up to them, so I'll let you know how well it works.
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Machinery for me has been far more profitable than extra staff, with much, much less hassle.
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Yes but you wouldn't notice movement between the slats on that! 😀
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Old school ones weren't- indeed, they were little more than a resistor. Modern ones are to a point, but how far do you want to go? Both a basic remap and a twin channel tuning box do pretty much the same thing, but one is DIY fit, transferable between vehicles and cheaper. It's a work truck- I don't need it dyno tested and tuned to within an inch of it's capabilities. I just need a little more low down torque, and the tuning box gives me that in spades.
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I might risk it at 6 months and pulling it tight with a pair of sash cramps then!
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Yes if you are changing other components and need a remap that’s takes account of that. Or if you have a track car that you want to wring every last ounce of. However general consensus these days is that a tuning box from a reputable company will give the average worktruck best bang for buck.
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This is what the customer wants replicating, using the original fittings. It’s pretty rustic to say the least
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That’s how my chipped ranger handles. I’m often at near tick over in fifth.
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Three horizontals with the vertical nailed onto them. No joints, just two diagonal braces.
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I lost interest when I read 'briggs and stratton'. Honda or Honda copy on all machines for me. Kubota for diesel. You're rarely let down that way.
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I've seen first hand how joinery built oak gates costing over £2.5k can move with the seasons. Luckily the joiner was local and came out to sort it on two occasions. The joiner was a very switched on young guy, the gate was designed on a CAD program and he told me how he'd allowed more than usual for expansion in the T+G, but he'd be allowing even more next time! 😲 He was pretty shocked. With this rustic build, I'll probably end up somewhere in the middle. Mill it soon and finally get round to building it six months later.
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Just make sure you measure fuel economy at the pump, not the truck computer. These boxes work fine if you set them up right, they basically trick the engine into delivering more fuel. I've had an old style one on my Ranger for years, the only problem I had is it eating the DMF which is to be expected when you up the torque that much. Stuck a single mass in and has been fine since. If they throw an error code (ususally MAF sensor) then turn them down a bit. I'm ordering one for my second Ranger. More modern ones intercept both the rail presure sensor and the boose pressure sensor (they call it twin channel) which should keep smoke readings etc more balanced.
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Good tip, thanks.
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No tongue and groove. I did wonder about just building it green- it’s copying a very basic design (gonna salvage the old ironmongery)
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Another shrinkage question for the pros. I want to end up with 30mmx150mm boards for replicating an oak garden gate that is full of woodworm for a customer (minus the woodworm obviously). What size should I cut at initially?
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I was considering a Winton stone burier, others have told me that a 'pro' machine does a much better job. What do you reckon Bob? PS. I didn't buy the LiuGong!
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Where do I sign up for the webinar on what you learnt from running a failed coaching company about a failed tree company? People who genuinely want to help others are called mentors, and do it for the love. I should know, I have been lucky enough to have a very good one.
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If the job is a few days might as well buy one of the Chinese 15hp jobbies?
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Follow the instructions, take it slow and methodical. Adjust, spin the band wheel by hand, observe and re-adjust.
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Mine is clearing up after a cut and collect. Way quicker to load the ranger tipper at the end of the job rather than waste hours trundling the tractor to a dump site.
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Can’t see why you’d want a trailed flail mower rather than linkage mounted. Way more hassle to manoeuvre.
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So pencil It down, don’t waste timber!
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More to do with flail choice then the make of mower. Any should do but for blackthorn I’d want swinging t flails, heavier the better.
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That back actor looks way too big for the machine 🤣 How well does it dig? If someone made a back actor with servos I might have one. Gave my new kubota a work out yesterday.
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Works well for me on an e27 with 50l/min. I reckon it would be painfully slow on a Sherpa, Worky Quad or similar but if you really want I can try it.
