doobin
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Everything posted by doobin
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Just make sure you measure fuel economy at the pump, not the truck computer. These boxes work fine if you set them up right, they basically trick the engine into delivering more fuel. I've had an old style one on my Ranger for years, the only problem I had is it eating the DMF which is to be expected when you up the torque that much. Stuck a single mass in and has been fine since. If they throw an error code (ususally MAF sensor) then turn them down a bit. I'm ordering one for my second Ranger. More modern ones intercept both the rail presure sensor and the boose pressure sensor (they call it twin channel) which should keep smoke readings etc more balanced.
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Good tip, thanks.
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No tongue and groove. I did wonder about just building it green- it’s copying a very basic design (gonna salvage the old ironmongery)
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Another shrinkage question for the pros. I want to end up with 30mmx150mm boards for replicating an oak garden gate that is full of woodworm for a customer (minus the woodworm obviously). What size should I cut at initially?
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I was considering a Winton stone burier, others have told me that a 'pro' machine does a much better job. What do you reckon Bob? PS. I didn't buy the LiuGong!
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Where do I sign up for the webinar on what you learnt from running a failed coaching company about a failed tree company? People who genuinely want to help others are called mentors, and do it for the love. I should know, I have been lucky enough to have a very good one.
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If the job is a few days might as well buy one of the Chinese 15hp jobbies?
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Follow the instructions, take it slow and methodical. Adjust, spin the band wheel by hand, observe and re-adjust.
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Mine is clearing up after a cut and collect. Way quicker to load the ranger tipper at the end of the job rather than waste hours trundling the tractor to a dump site.
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Can’t see why you’d want a trailed flail mower rather than linkage mounted. Way more hassle to manoeuvre.
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So pencil It down, don’t waste timber!
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More to do with flail choice then the make of mower. Any should do but for blackthorn I’d want swinging t flails, heavier the better.
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That back actor looks way too big for the machine 🤣 How well does it dig? If someone made a back actor with servos I might have one. Gave my new kubota a work out yesterday.
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Works well for me on an e27 with 50l/min. I reckon it would be painfully slow on a Sherpa, Worky Quad or similar but if you really want I can try it.
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Yes, but you’ll end up craving a nice fatty pork chop. UK game tends to be devoid of any fat. A well fed pheasant is probably the best you’ll get.
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Yup, all you need to know is here. Mine was £800 plus vat, and it was money well spent. Basically the Chinese types are all much of a muchness, you need the 15hp engine and then choose the chassis type that suits you best. I prefer trolley type as it’s the most narrow.
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I like the four way head for slightly tougher stuff such as brambles and docks. There is no benefit to it in month old grass and weeds. But with 2.7mm cord it’s good for the tougher stuff. Having 4 strings halves the wear on each string, and 2.7mm allows for a good length without too much drag. I’m not a fan of heavier cords- if it’s that thick then it’s time to switch to a blade.
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I'm with @Haironyourchest, only as a curveball I like to use the smaller autocut head (just change the internal nut to suit the larger strimmers). This gives you the large sweep as craved by @Stubby, and I don't bother with a guard. My preference is 2.4mm Stihl circular line. I've probably used close to 50 large spools over the years, and in my experience if a line welds inside the head then the rest of the spool will too, so bin it. That said, I've only had a handful of 'bad' spools. I've tried the water trick, it may help with abrasion resistance but did nothing for line welding inside the head. If it's grass and other soft vegetation you are cutting, you don't need anything heavier.
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That is a right little pocket rocket! 😍 -
Got a Tigergrip TG16Sr5 for £1k plus vat if you fancy a decent grab for it.
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Finished the sub frame off with a couple of fork pockets. Had an ‘oh shit’ moment when I realised that I had possibly welded the forks to the frame too, but a couple of good whacks with a sledge sorted it 🤣 Im hoping the C section fork pockets will be sufficient cross-reinforcement.
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That’s cheap right now mate. New equivalent is £12k, plus the vat. agree with your last sentence though, but that’s only because finance is cheap currently.
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Heads up guys- cheap entry level machine for someone. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115372165670?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=EJBASIcOTPG&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=epjAV_44QSW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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Given that we are staring down the barrel of a bitch of a recession, if you’re going to learn a trade then I’d learn one that will still be in demand. Mechanics, drains etc. Forced purchases. A lot of subby climbers will be chasing other work when hard times hit, work dries up and firms look to slim down staff numbers. There is a lot of disguised employment in Arb, and it will soon be apparent what the downsides to the higher day rate are vs being and employee.
