doobin

I came in here to suggest that whatever disc people used, a cordless grinder with speed control is worth its weight in gold when you are working in and under things (such as teeth on grinder) where kickback has you right in the line of fire. I have a Makita brushless with speed control. If Milwaukee do one I’d go with that- they are outclassing makita in the cordless grinder stakes currently.

They went with the £320 plus vat, want to keep the grindings for mulch.

You are such a fkin copycat! Resawing an oak sleeper was the first job for mine! Great minds think alike. Or rather- quick, what’s the nearest timber to play with?! 🤣🤣

I’ve had two people contact me looking for work in the last two days. That’s a sure sign something is up. Especially given how hard it’s been to get workers over the last year.

Came in here hoping for pictures of great tits, was disappointed.

Jesus, your scrap is worth even more than mine! I used shorted bolts to weld to the frame- seems pointless having the frame four inches above the subframe.

Having a DPF/Adblue delete is a fantastic reason to have a 'full' remap if you are already thinking about upping the power. Luckily all mine are too old. Have you been for an MOT with the delete and was it all OK?

A remap or tuning box both work on increasing the fuel pressure (normally) or the injector opening duration (sometimes). More fuel equals more power, which in turn will use more air. Modern twin channel boxes link into the boost sensor too, which avoids problems such as excessive smoke. A twin channel box is doing exactly the same as a basic remap, albeit in a different manner. There's precious little other benefit to be gained for our applications (torque for towing) by tweaking injection duration, etc. The reason a box (single channel) can trigger limp mode is because the engine thinks it's supplying X amount of fuel and so should be using Y of air (as reported by the MAF sensor), as the box tricks it by under-reporting the fuel pressure. So it throws a MAF error when the airflow exceeds what it considers a safe level for the fuel it thinks it's supplying. Just wind the box back a couple of clicks, you're being greedy! The above is also the reason why a lot of reports of incredible fuel savings as well as more power are bollocks. The truck is told by the box that the fuel pressure is lower than it is, so the truck computer reports a better MPG. Economy is gained by cruising around on the torque- you're still going to drink more diesel when thrashing it towing. Can't have your cake and eat it.

Been running my Ranger with a chip for years now. Change the flywheel to single mass and you are good. Makes the old 2.5 Mazda engine into a good tow motor, add air assist suspension and it's happy pulling 3.5t up hills. Some of the best money I spent.

Fence is actually straight (I looked!) but for some reason they've cut a panel down at an angle

It's the Rock one- still on it's pallet at the moment! https://www.rockmachinery.co.uk/product/rg24-pto-stump-grinder/

Thanks guys. I’ve gone in at £320 plus vat grind out or £400 plus vat including removing grindings, adding topsoil and seeding.

It’s an old well.

Was thinking it would take about two/three hours including transport. Maybe three litres of diesel. I only 'need' £250 from the job, I work on £500 a day for me and any machine and I can't see it taking a whole morning. But don't want to sell myself short.

First grinding (rather than pulling!) job so bear with me. What's the going rate for a pair of Leylandii stumps around 24" diameter? I'm thinking around £300 plus VAT, is that a bit steep, not enough or about right? I can get the compact tractor and PTO grinder up to them, so I'll let you know how well it works.

Machinery for me has been far more profitable than extra staff, with much, much less hassle.

Yes but you wouldn't notice movement between the slats on that! 😀

Old school ones weren't- indeed, they were little more than a resistor. Modern ones are to a point, but how far do you want to go? Both a basic remap and a twin channel tuning box do pretty much the same thing, but one is DIY fit, transferable between vehicles and cheaper. It's a work truck- I don't need it dyno tested and tuned to within an inch of it's capabilities. I just need a little more low down torque, and the tuning box gives me that in spades.

I might risk it at 6 months and pulling it tight with a pair of sash cramps then!

Yes if you are changing other components and need a remap that’s takes account of that. Or if you have a track car that you want to wring every last ounce of. However general consensus these days is that a tuning box from a reputable company will give the average worktruck best bang for buck.

This is what the customer wants replicating, using the original fittings. It’s pretty rustic to say the least

That’s how my chipped ranger handles. I’m often at near tick over in fifth.

Three horizontals with the vertical nailed onto them. No joints, just two diagonal braces.

I lost interest when I read 'briggs and stratton'. Honda or Honda copy on all machines for me. Kubota for diesel. You're rarely let down that way.

I've seen first hand how joinery built oak gates costing over £2.5k can move with the seasons. Luckily the joiner was local and came out to sort it on two occasions. The joiner was a very switched on young guy, the gate was designed on a CAD program and he told me how he'd allowed more than usual for expansion in the T+G, but he'd be allowing even more next time! 😲 He was pretty shocked. With this rustic build, I'll probably end up somewhere in the middle. Mill it soon and finally get round to building it six months later.