swinny

Took a decent sized one down the other day. Just bored into the edges and put poison in as usual.

Wet and dry tank top and used the better fuel cap on the right. Still leaked 😆 🤣

Good on you! Hope it serves you well 😀

Definitely feel a right spanner for not sorting it yet lol 😆 but it's been low down on priorities if not been used. Wet and dry top of tank is next step I think like you say! Ahh and yes engineers blue. Forgot about that stuff. One day I may get to the bottom of it but for the other day a glove and zip tie had to do lol 😆 😅

Bastard thing 😆 tried a new cap to no avail though I couldn't find a quality genuine one for sale... so maybe its still the cap. I do know the cap of a gx 390 fit well.... anyhow got to site and top of tank wet just from it sloshing around and being 3/4 tank full...

I'll be up near Loch Tay back end of next month 😀 nice up there

Yeah i know

The whole assembly will seat to the back of the stub axle but then the front bearing is not sitting in its race..... this bearing has gone as far up the stub axle it can so it all needs to be shimmed from the rear to bring it forwards into the front bearing. Also it then needs to protrude a bit from the bottom of the thread so the big washer under the nut can push against the front bearing into the race to seat nicely and eliminate any play.

And that's literally pulling the wheel hub up / bearing race into the front bearing where it should be then back. Shows it would need a good packing back there!

Looks really bad in the video. It's obviously been like this since they did this. Just wish I had checked before but didn't think it would be necessary. Like I say it's hardly used. Bit of a bugger really! Need to sort it as it will eat bearings and knacker the stub axles if I use it

20230826_133229.mp4

Unfortunately no. I see where your going but the bearings are hugely different in size.... I think it would be like a 5mm spacer needed easily. Though when you look on the stub picture looks like a 8-10mm clean bit on the shaft then the discoloured and then cleaner bit roughly 20mm long / wide that bit where the bearing would run, before the shaft tapers for the centre to be full of grease, then up towards the front where the front bearing sits, then the flat edge and then threads

Yes it's like a spacer is missing so the front bearing isn't proud at the front if you get me to nip up and put a split pin in.... And yes it's got 2 big thin discs with a seal on to stop grease going into the shoes.

Does anyone have a diagram of the parts on the stub axle and brakes or a picture etc when removing? Jasp wilsons renewed the shoes and wheel bearings in my trailer a couple of years ago. I've never really checked them as it doesn't get used often at all. It's not done many miles since as I work local. Before wanting to use ot for a job the other day I thought I'd blow up the slow tyre on it and gave a wiggle on the wheels. Both the rear braked axle wheels were floating in and out like loose on the bearing. Pulled hub cap off and knocked out the split pin and the big nut won't tighten any more as its fully home and not pressing against the the bearing. Stripped it today and had a good look in there. All bearing races seated correctly. Bearings are good. The washer tightens agains the flat on the stub axle so it cannot go further. The front bearing goes up as far as it should..... but the drum floats forwards (at this point the front bearing sits in the race fine) and backwards. It's like they've missed out a spacer at the back when re assembling. At the back of the big rear bearing there are 2 small plates with a seal on. I'm positive there should be a 5mm washer / shim at the back there..... The main front washer and nut cannot tighten the front bearing up as it doesn't sit proud of the flat lip the washer goes up to if you get me?

Some stones and metal and shite in here today 😴

Fitted new solenoid but didn't work. Took carb off and plate off the bottom, the gauze was covered in brown slime/ shit. Cleaned up and runs fine now! Will keep the old solenoid in the drawer for a get out of jail card (just in case it's still functioning?)

When I git it running again it wouldn't idle much.... and try rev it would die. Run it it would idle then stop eventually maybe 10 seconds or so. Fingers crossed 🤞 it's been posted today says couriers 😀 If it doesn't work I'll send you the address for my 28.00 plus vat compensation lol 😆 😂

Checked clutch, bearing and drum out etc. All OK. Swapped plug off a good engine and even blew out filter in tank. No luck. Ordered a solenoid up this evening. Fingers crossed 🤞

Just wondering if anyone has ever made a botex timber trailer body insert or even as daft as x2 6 cube? Skips strapped to the back of the trailer? Got all sorts of work in the pipe line and would be ideal if I made a body etc just to drop on the timber trailer for the smaller bits that would be chogged down when dismantling. Eg 5'-6' pieces etc Would usually have to fish these bits out with digger, into front loader on tractor then into a trailer..... would be nice to get a body to pull onto trailer and load woth the timber trailer and grab. Anyone? Not fussed about tippable at other end....

There must be something in this biomass because every man and dog is at it.... Not sure what it is as I've always been 3rd fiddle etc. Bigger machines only good if you have the works for them. Pricing on some of the bigger jobs is daft. We have one firm local that bids loads of stuff low. And when you consider the gear they take, time they are in the job and cost..... they can only be breaking even. No inspiration to buy bigger gear and move up scale there

Need to order some new teeth up soon and considering using the rhino teeth in the stock predator wheel. Do I need to swap all 6 out? sure ive seen a post somewhere saying they use rhino in the lead and use old multi in the back pockets, but looking at this, surely the sides on the multi stick out more than the rhino so will be grinding also and slowing the machine down? Last but not least..... I take it the small are more than adequate for a p26/28 machine? or..... stop fannying about and keep with multi tip lol

Not yet. Just took the bar and chain off and fitted it to the other saw. Will get it out and blow it out and try it again when I'm back home. Seemd weird how one minute fine and next not. Probs done 2 tanks that day allready it had if not more

Think they were 13" bars on ms260's when I did mine....

First time any grief off this saw since I bought it a few years ago.... Cutting up logs we winched up a banking.... bur bur bur.... like ran out of fuel. OK, it was very low. Filled it up, started it again and it messed about and cut out. Started it up again, idles fine. Chain brake off and rev it to clear to cut logs, it revs and then just dies down like its going to cut out. Finished day off with a 462 but severely missed the 362.... Any ideas what to check? Clean carb out etc? Fresh plug? Is the silly solenoid on the carb like the 201t? But they used to cut out when idle not when revving when that was a problem. Any help appreciated. Love this size of saw

I'll have a 1928 round spout for a fiver a week 😀