Dan Curtis

Why? It takes up the same size space in the yard, similar time to season, similar time to process, same space on the delivery vehicle. I love burning softwood, it's pretty much all in using at the moment, mostly Lawson's and Scot's

That's why you put a carving bar and 1/4" chain on your modded saw. That and the fact it makes it even more ridiculously fantastically brilliant.

http://m.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-dorset-29948177

Heard on the news this morning that it was being 'cut back' in an attempt to prolong it's lifespan. Anyone on here involved?

Have you considered a crosscut? You can pick them up for next to nothing, just need to find yourself an old timer who knows how to sharpen and set the teeth, they are still about. You can braze or weld multiples together to get a long enough cut if you need to. Might be fun and you'd only have two cuts to make with it. You may even be able to set up some sort of square edge jig to keep it in line. Just my thoughts

Nice job Joe. Did you get much rain today?

Cougar Blue is great. 60m with a ring in one end

I've looked unkempt for years, I think I'll need to change my ways now it's fashionable

Wheel balance, tracking, uj's. Had the same on my 90 twice, one front uj then the other a few weeks later. Both times it only made a noise in 3rd, nothing in different gears or rev ranges. Give your props a shake and check for play

I did it a while back but more signatures are needed! Good post Barrie

I didn't say I could, just that it's possible

100ft is throwable with practice. Big shots up to 180ft depending on bag weight, line weight and wind

Great film. The world's hardest marque with the world's hardest man

I keep getting 'invalid thread id' when using the app trying to quote a post. Any ideas?

It's useful for a variety of things, I did put some pictures in another thread a while back I think. I like it for a locked base anchor that can be made lowerable with other devices. It's great for having a choked top anchor when going up or down on spikes, just needs a bight pushed through and a krab to hold it. It'll also do a retrievable top anchor due to the reduced friction. You can tie multiple lines to the ring for various reasons. It can be tied to rope without relying on hitches etc in a lowerable system. It also acts as a good stopper knot that doesn't get caught as easily as a knot would. It's really handy for slinging round a stem when spiking up, perfect weight to get a return and not so heavy it knocks you out if you overdo it! If you're feeling really fancy you can set it as a base anchored cambium saver for a ddrt system, just need a prussik and pulley. For me it's a multifunctional thing, everything it does could be done another way but it's always there, usually requires no extra gear bar a krab and it's very versatile. Having a big ring permenantly attached to one end of the rope does need consideration when setting and retrieving ropes though. A splice wouldn't work for most applications as the rope on rope friction would stop it functioning, and potentially wear the rope unfavourably. And I don't really have a need for regular spliced ropes anymore. I too set my lines so I have just enough tail, no point hauling more than you need to. Depending on the tree height this can be done with the ring, then the spare rope used as a knotless/joinless lowerable rescue line.

I can't read it, the resolution is too low

50m of cougar blue with a ring spliced in one end mostly. I have a 60m hank of tachyon too. I'm back on a plain uni most of the time, I don't like the one I've got with a drum. Still use the rw with a hitch or lj some days, depends what I'm doing. I have had 5 months off climbing over the summer so it's good to be getting back to it.

Not really, I'm comfortable on a high ish base anchor and I don't ever really need to anchor where I would've done ddrt. Redirects get me out level with an anchor if that's where I need to be. If I'm climbing above it'll not be far and I static redirect above. On the whole though it's rare that I can't get a high enough anchor to work the whole tree from the ground. That last post wasn't meant as a pop at you, just my thoughts

Base anchors for pretty much everything but removals for me. Did a removal today on a base anchor through a tree nearby. I can't see an issue with it, you shouldn't be cutting near any rope, loaded or not. If you can't trust whoever is on the ground not to cut near your anchor, I'd suggest the issue is not with the anchor type. Don't drop things near enough to it to need cutting close by

I do occasionally. I think it's a great setup, possibly better than the uni once in the canopy. Ascending is it's let down imo

I'm not sure your mill is big enough

Practice boomerang throwing. I set up a scaffold bar to play with at home. You should be able to get the bag to completely stop swinging, then start it up, build momentum and launch it back to yourself. There's a good bit about how to do it in 'the fundamentals of general tree work' by Jerry Beranek. Great game to play with kids too.

I have used srt in nearly everything the last four or so years. The only time that ddrt was at an advantage was in a big leggy Poplar to get out to the tips. Redirects on srt weren't worth using as I was only removing the lower half of the canopy before knocking the tree over.

My dog loves it and will quite happily lick a chain :what:

Done.