Perkins

Up here the Forestry Commision lads have them, twin cab with a tipper behind, 4WD. I don't know what they do with the old ones?

Our stove is 20kW and has a 5inch flue. It heats the entire house (9 rads) and domestic hot water. We don't have any other means of heating, so burn between 7 and 14 pickup loads of wood per year, depending on the harshness of the winter. Estimated cost (if I wasn't getting it for free) is only between £500 and £1000, but the house is REALLY well insulated. Fitted everything myself.

A stove designed specifically for heating water, such as the stratford eco20, is thermostatically controlled, meaning the air intake opens as the water temperature drops, and vice versa. For this reason, when the water is 'up to temperature', the stove throttles itself down, and your fire will slumber. This is the problem I think you have been advised of. However, it is only a problem if the stove room isn't warm enough, and you don't have a heat loss from the water circuit. The solution is to have a heat loss, such as your radiator circuit, controlled by a circulating pump. It is also important with modern efficient stoves to have a radiator in the same room as the woodburner, because so much heat is transferred to the water jacket, that the stove room can remain cold. Normally, you would have water circulating by gravity to your indirect hot water cylinder, and via a pump to your radiators. When the pump is on, you get a warm house, and when the pump is off, you get heat transferred to your cylinder. A thermostat near the bottom of the cylinder is a good idea, used to switch on your circulating pump if the water at the bottom of the tank is up to about 65degrees.

Hedgelaying Tree planting Apple and Pear tree pruning

maybe you could wear it while pruning apple trees with what looks like a 660, then take a picture of yourself and change your avatar, before everybody falls out. Crikey it's getting hot in here.

If the shoes had bearings or shims, or were mounted using nylocks onto partially threaded bolts, that would work, or using set screws instead of long fully threaded bolts. Thanks for confirmation anyway, it made me feel better somehow, that somebody else had the same problem. Pretty surprised though, it's like nailing a catherine-wheel tight onto a post and expecting it to spin.

Yes both are 4 mix engines. There's just one spring pulling the two shoes together, and it's not an old machine. I'll try a new spring tomorrow, but am not hopeful. When I dismantle the clutch, as the retaining bolts are loosened, the shoes spring back to the middle, which is what they're not doing on tickover. I've tried grease, WD40, oil, everything. It's just a **** design. The retaining bolts press the shoes onto the mounting so hard, that they can't pivot.

I'm having a nightmare with these clutches, on both the polesaw and the long reach hedgecutter. They cease up constantly, making it nearly impossible to start the machine, because the power generated on tickover isn't enough to run the chain/hedgecutter. The only way to start it is to go for full throttle, and keep the revs up all the time. As soon as you throttle off, the machine stalls. The design of the clutch is poor IMO. The bolts that hold the clutch 'shoes' onto the machine cause so much friction that the shoes don't return to their central position when the revs drop. The spring isn't strong enough to overcome the friction. I've tried re-building the clutch with the bolts slightly less tight, but they just come undone and then jam the clutch anyway. Anybody else had this problem?

Oh damn, I've been looking for red tree surgeons everywhere

just get a lane closure (which is free), rather than a full road closure. This gives you working space up to the white line. Contact the Higways department of the council. Set of traffic lights around here is £220 per day all set up with chapter 8 kit.

I know what you mean about lazy staff. Have a word, you're the boss. I have to say though, if jogging is needed to get the job completed within the day, then you are doing something wrong. Either you need to get the chipper closer to the drop zone, or get more staff. We regularly smash a job early, then have a barbeque. The problem arises when you're beasting the lads constantly with no breaks or rewards.

Oh yeah and the point was, that discerning customers won't necessarily go for cheapest. We're not selling milk.

I recently lost a job on price. My price was £2000 and the job went to a company who did the work for £800. It took the other outfit 14 man days (2days with 4 men and 3 days with 2 men) to complete the job, and they demolished a £1500 raised platform decking area. Pay peanuts, get monkeys. I had tried to explain to the customer up front that we don't pride ourselves on being cheap, but we pride ourselves on being good, and I guaranteed the decking would be undamaged.

£35.49+VAT for 20 litres of Smith and Allan, from...erm...Smith and Allan!

great piece of work! I couldn't find the following in the 'A' section, don't know if you want to include these?: apoplasm acuminate apex antigibberelin ascender actinomycetes abscisic acid

£500 oh how vulgar

I got some useful kit and brilliant service/back up from Digital Direct Security. If your workshop and house both have an internet connection, you can install a multiple camera system linked to a DVR with a web server. The DVR can be accessed from any computer or smartphone (with the right passwords). Motion sensors, night vision, 1000Gb HDD and a web server for about £600 I seem to remember.

Can anybody tell me what this is? The underside of the leaves are covered with these small flat discs, which appear to be sucking nutrients from the leaf. They can be peeled off fairly easily. I'm guessing they're some kind of eggs.

Hard to tell the distance to that building. My thoughts were that simply pulling it could result in the tree twisting and falling sideways. The crown bias looks to be in the right direction, but there are one or two big boughs up the middle and out the back, which I guessed would reach the corrugated sheeting. Still, it defo needs a gob in the front. I think you'll be surprised how much sawing or pulling (or both) you have to do to get it down.

My 2p: Looks like it needs a gob in the front if you are to avoid that building. Winch line not needed.

we charge a flat rate of £100 per tree regardless of size and position.

Total job price usually. It's up to you to decide how long it will take, and factor in all overheads, profit, additional time fixing fences etc. Most big clients won't agree to an unknown fee in my experience.

CATERPILLAR B15 Android Phone

isuzu grafter

It's gnarly?