Perkins

We asked BT to take a 200m section of phone line down so we could dismantle 6 poplars leaning over the wires. They took them down, laid them accross a field, and put them back afterwards, no charge.

OK apparently the cutters shows on the green background are Mark 1. The ones on the black background are Mark 2, having code numbers 0450131 (short Plow Bolts) and 0450130 (Long Plow Bolts).

OK, when searching online for short plow bolts with code R1CX-1626-7566 I get to New River equipment corp, which shows the following picture: HOWEVER, My grinder takes the same teeth but with the shank rotated at 45degrees thus: To fit the pocket which looks like this: Can't find the code anywhere for the teeth compatible with my machine.

Any more questions before you tell me your preferred supplier?

great thanks, has anybody asked that yet? I've got approx. 10 beech to pollard, see pics. (Lawnmower for scale). Most of them fork between 2ft and 5ft from the ground. It's quite an unusual stand. I proposed to cut them at around 6 to 8ft, leaving one or more of the lower thin branches intact until re-growth was established (1 year?). Comments? Sorry about the blurry pics, it's getting dark out there.

I haven't had time yet to read all 55 pages of this enthralling thread, but has anybody mentioned when is a good time to pollard trees, or when it was traditionally done (winter?), specifically Beech. Alternatively, is there a time of year to be avoided?

£15 each plus vat plus postage

It's got the sandvik disc, there are 8 short and 24 long teeth. BTW are you Johnny walker, or Jimmy walker? I think you might know my cousin, Ralphy

Thanks I'll check that out. also Liston equipment I've discovered have spares online for Carlton grinders. Orange plant are sounding pricey: - Kubota exhaust £261.02+VAT and £245 postage ! hmm......think I'll get my welder out.

Can anybody point me in the right direction for stump grinder teeth and other spares, and filters etc. for the Kubota engines? I also need an exhaust for a Kubota. Any help greatfully appreciated. Perkins

I've been on a premium listing for the last 12 months and had approx.6 leads, 4 of which were too far to travel. One said, "require tree cutting down house high in height and stump removal. This week. Looking around £70-£80 call 07739582869" One was for fencing.

Nice...if you get brown water dripping out of the bottom of the stove the first time you light it, don't worry, it's condensation coming out. I freaked when I saw it. I'm sure you'll be happy with the stove provided the chimney performs.

I'm thinking I could knock one of these up in an afternoon with an old rucksack frame, some ally tubing and a shocker off the wife's hatchback.

I use a Stratford Eco 20 (water heater) and a Morso Badger (room heater), both of which are excellent. The Morso has a tertiary air inlet which is an excellent idea. Primary air comes in through the bottom or side of the stove usually and helps get the fire started. Secondary air is normally an air wash vent above the glass or ducted up the back of the stove before emerging above the glass. Tertiary air is warmed and presented to the fire box just above the burning logs, via lots of little holes (see Morso Badger), ensuring proper mixing of the volatile gasses with the combustion air, right in the heart of the fire. This means you can burn the wood efficiently and with the minimum amount of air, hence reducing the throughput of air through the stove and heat loss up the flue. Once up to temperature, it's looks like liquid flame gently rolling and swirling around the firebox. Compare this to the leaky chinese-made stove from Machine Mart which roars away burning a log every ten minutes, and you'll see what I mean. Stove temperature also matters, because hotter stoves burn more efficiently. Bear this in mind because adding a water jacket reduces the efficiency of the stove because the internal walls are much cooler than a standard room heater type stove.

The subbie we use for stumps took out 350 stumps in a single day at Bedale golf course. Mainly oak and birch, small stuff like 4inch to 6inch, but that's still quite impressive IMO.

Is that commercial work or have you found domestic customers that are prepared to wait 6 months for tree work?

Thanks for your input Stereo, I'm looking into this currently. As far as I can tell, reciprocal links used to be very beneficial but are less so these days. Search results are partly weighted towards website popularity, defined as the number of links that lead to a particular page/website, but as you rightly point out, Google fathomed this out and doesn't reward reciprocal links as heavily. One-way links are still beneficial. Anybody want to put my links on their website in exchange for....erm....nothing?

No........type 91 chain has a gauge of 0.050", whereas type 90 has a gauge of 0.043". So the groove in a type 90 bar is too narrow to accomodate the 0.050" drive links on the type 91 chain. My brother recently bought the wrong chain and so prized-open the rails on the guide bar to accomodate the bigger chain...but he's a nutter.

Would anybody like to put a hyperlink on my website in exchange for putting my link onto theirs? It will improve web presence and boost search engine results for us both. The link doesn't have to be findable by normal means i.e. the links page can be detached from the rest of the website e.g. here PM or email via the website cheers, perkins

Let's look at it from a forestry point of view. Pay £3 for the standing timber, fell it taking down wires in the process, sned up leaving branch wood behind, winch butt end out of garden leaving large gouge in lawn, paying no attention to any obstacles. (Maybe use gate post or other trees as a re-direct for winch line.) load timber onto timber trailer. No tidying up. Take a slash on flowers before driving off to yard. no offence intended to any forestry lads out there.

I know the 4-mix engines sound very different and take a bit of getting used to, but mine starts on the first pull every time, fault-less.

I have the Stihl HT131, and firstly let me say that a pole saw can speed the job up enormously e.g. getting stuck into a leylandii dismantle, crown lifting (obviously) and that "can you just take a branch off this for me please dear" moment at the end of a day. I find the saw quite heavy even after short periods and might go for the next size down if I had the choice again. Build quality is excellent in the main, but the silver coloured extension tube that slides out of the main, black, much stronger pole, is prone to getting bent if you're not careful. It really is quite pathetically flimsy. If your cutting at full extension and the chain gets snagged in the timber as it comes off the cut you'll find the silver tube get's bent really easily. Be warned. Not sure what the Echo pole strength is like in comparison.

I win nearly 100% of my quotes and I'm loaded. hah har! I put this down to good reputation and good sales technique, a helpful and informative approach, but then I don't work on fixed rates either. On a fixed rate system, there's obviously a trade off between increasing your prices and wasted time viewing jobs that don't go ahead i.e. increased overheads. I guess this could be represented graphically and it's probably quadratic with an asymtote on the price axis. Perhaps the 60% healthy ratio is where the maximum profit lies? I'd rather be flexible on rates so that I get ALL the jobs I quote. There's really no point viewing a job that doesn't happen, because all you've done is waste diesel. Have fixed rates, sure, but have a minimum rate when you need to be competitive and an increased rate for other occassions.

Thanks for setting things straight, but I didn't want to risk the £20,000 fine for willful destruction. I've since had confirmation back from forest research that this is bacterial bleeding k'nacker. They never said anything about Honey fingers but who knows?

It's that time of year again, and while answering the usual tranche of questions regarding my turnover, percentage time working over 10metres etc etc. I encountered conflicting information. One insurance company advised me that if I use bona-fide sub-contractors carrying their own public liability insurance, that I don't need Employers liability insurance. A different company stated the exact opposite......that even if the subbie has insurance, I'm still responsible for them and should get Employers liability insurance to cover myself (the employer). Apparently the only way around this is for both me and the subbie to bill the customer directly. Anybody got any experience of this