gibbon

I would normally specify, or have specified: using coronet type cut to mimic natural failure. This might be specific to cuts over a given diameter or not depending on the job. In my experince the quality of coronet is going to be down to the guy in the tree rather than the detail on the spec. Where and how long the cuts is will also depend on your ability to tear limbs and available work postioning, especially given the increase risk of kick back. I'm not sure that over specifying on paper will stop the bart simpson look. If its someones first attempt its bound to look a little wrong. May be you ought to just specify that it should be carried out by someone experienced in these techniques?

I called them, not that helpfull and the landy I was interested in in August is still for sale. Check out these guys Land Rover Defenders quality used land rover 90, 110 and 130 models speak to Mark. He got me a Landy and got it converted to a tipper to the spec I wanted and gave a good waranty.

Not frozen round exeter way

Maybe, whos asking?

Thats a rather sweeping statement We have contracts with local and district councils. We are not big contenders, operating at cut throat prices or a bunch of mugs. How much experience do you have tendering for these contracts?

I'd say more like an 80% reduction too. I bet there was a dam site more twiggy material on the deck than left up in the tree. I'm sure it'll come back again and someone will re-do it in a few years Beeches don't have a lot of internal growth in my opinion regardless of how or if they have been pruned before. Nice shape though, I'd be happy with that job if it was done to spec. Some customers are just a pain in the ass

How much would you say was reduced in terms of leaf area? Just curious as opinions often vary on that quite considerably

As Monkeyd says, it is often better to encourage the branch to fracture then to use the chainsaw to roughen up the cut. On smaller sections its quite easy to get an natural looking tear by slashing it up. The 1st picture is the result of some thing we have done recently where you can free fall sections by tip tie with a rope then tear it off. I put will bore in about a 1/4 of the diameter of the section on the side you want the tear (front) then cut down wards and towards the back to create a hazard beam type cut. You can the put in a step cut beneath it, get out the way and winch it off. This only really works if you have a nice high anchor so you can tie to another section to cut and get well out the way to winch it off. If I am dropping a smaller piece or reducing a piece of dead wood I cut horizonally and let it break off. If you angle the horizonal cut so it can't be seen from the ground you just slash up the cut surface afterwards. Does that make sense? I did that with the 2nd picture

Reminds me of a forcast i once saw for the whole of Australia- "the weather tommorow will be.....changeable"

lets have a look see then

Pro Arb and Hi line are nearly always recruiting. It might not be the most glamorous work but you will get lots of it You may well struggle to pickup freelance work at the moment. The domestic work is still pretty fickle down this way and it always slows down a bit this time of year till after spring.

Where too?

Another Oak slashed up. This one had 2 declining stems overhanging the lawned area of a block of flats. The stems had Laetiporus sulphureus and there was some honey fungus at the base. The tree shed a 2nd major limb in the summer.

This is what the kids round here have been upto.

We were out today but its impossible to clear up in the snow

A little pruning job on Monday afternoon

I cut up a wind blown Oak on one of our estates in Devon 18 months ago. The trunk is still on the drive and the right diamer but I think its more like 5-6m. Is that any good?

Enough to bin work and go sledging with my daughter. Horray!

Like the meercats

I'd be amazed if we get any at all on the costa del devon

Regardless of any ecological benifits, I think this type of pruning is worth it for the the landscapre value. The cut on the right screams chainsaw!

Thats what I recon. A new guy (no prior experience) is an investment, they rarely earn you as much as they cost you to employ them

I'm thinking along similar lines. I would assume that reducing the canopy of a young or vigorous tree would maybe slow down the rate of root growth in the short term. There would be an temporary inbalance in the root/shoot ratio. Rapid shoot extention and I would assume that the rate of root growth would be a little slower until the natural ballance has been restored. From my experience I have no doubt that a sever pruning of a over mature trees will lead to some root loss. I've often seen evidence of root decline on trees after large limbs have been lopped or removed, especially large diameter trees. Some trees develop distinct source/sink relationships between limbs or part of the canopy and large roots. If you remove a section of the canopy which is "feeding" a large root and the tree is not vigorous engough to replace the foilage surely the root is going to die back? . Most likley one of those questions with to many variable for a clear answer. I guess it all depends on the extent of the pruning, and the age and species of the tree.

Got a set on the landy.

Stay off the injections. My mum played a lot of tennis and ended up with it. Doctor injected into the wrong part of her elbow and she all but lost the use of her arm for 9 months.