Treewolf

Yes, but it's bobtailed compared to a normal 110 so there's less behind the axle. Anyone know what make of portal axle was used on these?

I think you may find that there's a difference between a part of the vehicle which projects and a load carried by the vehicle which projects. Eg the front loader on a JCB is part of the vehicle, but a minidigger carried on the front is payload. I'm not sure about this but have an uneasy feeling about it. If it's that simple why hasn't anyone done it before?

Yes, a Disco 2 can tow 3.5t.

Yes, I've used one for years, ever since I realised that the Telephone Preference Service was as useful as a chocolate fireguard. Brilliant for keeping unwanted callers out of your life, includes an answering machine, but I've not tried recording an answered call with it.

Makes you wonder how he's survived into his seventies!

No, left the cat alone. On a TD5 it is definitely worth removing the EGR completely as a first improvement. If you want then to remap, great, but don't remap before taking the EGR off. The EGR is not currently checked as part of the MOT however the cat is, and if the vehicle left the factory with one (and a 2003 vehicle will have done) it will be subject to a visual check. The MOT database will tell the tester if one should be present. My TD5 is in standard tune, although I do have a PSI Powerbox on it which I switch on when I need grunt. As noted above the EGR has been taken off (complete with the heat exchanger), and the cat is present. On my TDCi (Puma) Defender I have a BAS remap with the EGR disabled, and again the cat is unchanged. On the TDCi, the easiest way to do an MOT-friendly de-cat is to take the downpipe off and drill out the internals with a big masonry drill (but don't inhale the dust). This is possible because the cat is right at the end of the pipe. Be aware however that many tuners don't recommend de-catting since it can cause problems with the turbo spooling too quickly. On the Puma de-catting does help reduce under-bonnet temperature and can reduce manifold warp.

A 53-plate TD5 will (at least when it left the factory) have a cat and no DPF. The Landrover TD5 engine definitely benefits from having the EGR removed, largely because the valve unit itself causes a considerable restriction to the air flow into the engine. Removing the valve allows the engine to breathe much better. I removed the EGR from my 02-plate TD5 after about 4 years of ownership and wished I'd done it years earlier. I would suggest now that if you do this you keep the parts you remove just in case our idiot lawmakers legislate against EGR removal.

Have a look hear (if the link works) towards teh bottom of the page that is displayed, might provide you with an answer re. stoggles:- Trees, Woods and Forests: A Social and Cultural History - Charles Watkins - Google Books Seems to be an old term for pollard.

I think it was on the Bere Regis to Wool road, the one over Gallows Hill, and the incident happened near the bridge by the watercress farm actually in BR. It was quite widely reported at the time and Google will turn up reports from the time. If I recall correctly the detachment happened because the towing attachment was home-fabricated and failed. Whether it was the coupling or the means of attachment (or even the crossmember) wasn't reported. If there was a breakaway cable it was attached the the failed component. All in all a very unfortunate incident and a salutary reminder of the responsibility of those of us who tow.

Many years ago I had a (very heavy) 3.5 ton plant trailer with a 2" ring coupling. One day some thieving whatnots in a Transit cut the locks off the trailer, hitched it to their van, and made off with it. As it happens they didn't get far with it. They'd dropped the ring over the 50mm ball on the van, and about a mile down the road the trailer unhitched itself and turned left into the front garden of a very expensive house (Taplow, nr Maidenhead), and plowed a 30 foot furrow across the front lawn. I had a call from plod within minutes since my number plate was on the trailer, and it was only because the van had been seen and wasn't the Landrover that the number belonged to that they eventually accepted it wasn't me! I sometimes wonder what would have happened if the dangerous morons had got further and it had come off alongside a bus stop outside a school, or similar.

A tractor flipped its trailer on a roundabout in Poole yesterday, which caused traffic chaos.

It must seem harsh, and possibly a warning would have been more appropriate, but forgetting the breakaway cable really isn't acceptable. In May 2007 at Bere Regis in Dorset a 37yo women was killed when a trailer became detached from a Landrover an mowed her down. The driver was charged with causing death by dangerous driving, although the case was later dropped on an evidenciary technicality. So whilst three points and a £100 fine (or whatever the penalty is) may well be something you could do without, you could potentially be facing years in jail if you hadn't been pulled and something worse had happened.

That would be my bet too.

You're comparing chalk and cheese! One's a £300 winch, the other's a £1000 winch. How do you think they'll compare?

Two RB44s plus an ex-mil trailer on Ebay as a single lot, in the Exeter area. Nothing to do with me, but might be of interest to someone. Link

Very nice indeed!

I reckon you're right, that is very sound reasoning. I've been scything on and off for about 40 years (gulp!) and didn't know what it was called nor, it seems, what it was really for, though I was aware of course that it kept grass from getting caught between the heel of the blade and the snath. I've just bought a new snath for a rather nice old blade I have been given and wanted to fit a grass nail. Thank you all for your advice and help, much appreciated! (Although not fashionable I am a big fan of scything and reckon it's quicker (and quieter) than a brushcutter. Also it is much safer if you have to work near animals since you can hear, and can put the blade on the ground instantly to make it safe.)

Fantastic, thanks! Arbtalk comes up trumps again! I always thought it was there just to brace the joint - you never stop learning!

Does anyone know if the iron bracing bar usually found on an English scythe that runs from the blade to the snath to reinforce the joint has a technical name? More importantly does anyone know where I can get one (the brace thingy, not the scythe, that is)? If not a vist to a blacksmith will be required. Thanks.

Behind the rear offside wheel under the wheel arch, effectively below the rear lights.

Guess who has owned Bahco since 1999...... Snap On.

Just type the first line of the song into google, and you'll find this: albums details

You're sure it's not a left hand thread? I am not familiar with the LM162 but many commercial vehicles have LH threads on the NS wheelnuts. Fooled me completely when (as a 17yo) I bought a twin wheel Transit! If the nuts really are that tight you're going to need to replace the studs (at least) anyway so shearing them off really isn't such a problem. I'd go for a 3/4" or 1" drive socket and breaker bar and just go for it.

These are what you need, the original and best. They come up on Ebay from time to time. They are fairly heavy, and if you run anything wider than a 245 it won't fit.

It does sound unlikely but it's true. Imagine two identical cars travelling towards each other and hitting head on. Both cars will crush identically and equally and each will absorb exactly half the energy of the accident. In fact the result will be exactly the same as if the two cars hit opposite sides of an indestructable wall at exactly the same time.