treequip
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Everything posted by treequip
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Anything over 3500kg MAM needs an "O" licence
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Pershore College Arboriculture - Images
treequip replied to John Hancock's topic in Training & education
I don't think that's negative at all. Its constructive criticism that identifies a problem and suggests a solution, which is the very definition of learning. Appreciating that high stumps cause problems for others is an entirely valid learning outcome. As you rightly say, they are students, they are in a learning environment, if they aren't going to develop best practice in a place of education, they are going to learn it the hard way when the forwarder driver complains to the boss about the new bloke leaving a mess and wrecking the sidewalls on expensive tyres. Edit............ I need to type faster -
Pershore College Arboriculture - Images
treequip replied to John Hancock's topic in Training & education
Or the man on the forwarder will give them a slap round the back of the head :laugh1: -
first job with tpo's???!!! any help appreciated.
treequip replied to joshhsoj111's topic in General chat
Get a copy of the map and schedule from the LA -
I did tell him that a few posts back.....................Ho hum
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The number should be on the edge of the bearing, you should be able to see it without too much dismantling. Most common sizes stock items, if you have to wait more than next day you need a better supplier
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Not uncommon in north America either but not legal for use on UK roads
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I think the problem is in the ram, its air in the ram. There isn't much to go wrong in the ram itself, its a rod and a seal inside a tube, there might just be a check valve in case a hose bursts but its hard to see how that could cause the symptoms you described
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Ditch it and start from scratch Rather than the flimsy clamp system drill the bar along its centre line and bolt the uprights through the guide bar. Stay away from the nose of the guide bar unless you have a duromatic type bar, it means an inch or two less width of cut but at the advantage of a more secure fixing. You will need to weld a small plate to the end of the upright and drill and tap it. Make the plate the same width as the post so as not to reduce your maximum cut width and a shade under the width of the guide bar. Take care to get the end of the upright square to the guide bar
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OK first things first ,before doing anything to this secure the body before working on it getting squashed by a tipper body is likely to result in serious sense of humour failure Is the system "bled up", air moves quicker than oil which can give the symptoms you describe particularly on a single acting ram. send the body up and see if you can bounce it, if its full of oil (uncompressible) it wont move, if its got air in it, it will be "squishy" and probably goes up a bit jerky In pic 3 the round thing with the battery lead is the solenoid power for the pump. The black rectangular thing is the solenoid for the down, the restriction usually lives between that and the tank so that it only works on the "back to tank" side and not the "up" side
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When you send it down the oil is supposed to go back to tank trough a small hole controlling the speed of flow and thus decent Sounds like its missing the flow restriction. It depends on the make but its usually in the aluminium housing under the solenoid switch. (its the bit with 2 small wires) Send some pictures Keep your bits safe if you do anything with it:thumbup1:
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Consider any scope for unbolting the pillow block or even spiting the pillow block. Leaving the gearbox in situ on the shaft?
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Professional Memberships
treequip replied to TreeProfessional's topic in International Arborist Forum
How's that going to work then??? It costs money to administer any organisation no matter what the industry. -
You wouldn't even need a grinder, a junior hacksaw would do the trick:laugh1:
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The most significant factor was that you can repair a split rim tyre with nothing more than a spanner and a Dunlop kit. Commercial tyres were also high ply and getting them on a bead with levers was "difficult"
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Before you decide its worth bearing in mind that the audience you are asking consists of people that are in the trade (the made its) and the wannabe's. You should weight the almost overwhelming "go for it" with the fact that this audience is unlikely to contain anyone who tried and failed.
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It looks like an old commercial vehicle axle. The split rims are the giveaway there. My guess is the it got where it is as part of a trailer and the test is rotted away Classic tractor or some such would be a better place to ask about rusty mettal
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Or its all that remains of a Jap, after the tinwork has rotted away
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Its a simple thing, you just put a URL redirect (a bit of code) on the first site and the browser automatically loads the target URL, most people don't even notice the browser didn't end up where they pointed it. You can even direct traffic to a specific page within the target domain. You just need access to the code on the first site and its free. You can also set the sites to mirror each other, you have to have both sites hosted anyway so no cost implication and having them separate will help you with traffic monitoring.
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I believe the proper term is "promoted into incompetence"
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:confused1: As long as its functional and washed its fine, especially for a newbie A hygiene kit is all you need for anything that wont go in the washer
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Don't worry about that, the strimmer gang will have it done in within a couple of years
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Cebora make mig good welders for a lot of big names as well as their own brand, the snap on 130 is a cebora. Have a look at the wire feed assembly, some are plastic which flex and give no end of trouble, like the SIP I used to own
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The Romans had concrete
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I got these, they fit bashlin or buckingham . Your legs will thank you
