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treequip

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Everything posted by treequip

  1. The SS cables are good but beware the brand, I have seen some where the cable is SS which is great to stop stretch, but the jacket isn't so if water gets in they rust and seize up the same as any other.
  2. Unless the aim was to start a collection of obsolete non runners. He could be like the bloke with the collection that carts then to various shows in the summer. He could spend the winter evenings polishing and talking to them :laugh1:
  3. Check the brakes first, there us an inspection hole on the back plate, it should have a bung in it but they are often missing. With the brakes fully off, shine a light in and get someone to operate the hand brake, you should be able to see the brake linings move and how much wear is left on the linings. You can also check the operation by jacking each side in turn, spinning the wheel by hand and applying the handbrake.
  4. The duty cycle refers to the machine as a whole rather than the ram. A motor that size will certainly power a small splitter provided its matched to an appropriately sized pump.
  5. It could be, as others have said that the bearing is on its way out or the brake is binding, it could also be that the brake on other side isn't working and the side that's getting warm is because its taking all the breaking effort.
  6. Not so, the DIY build or modification is still alive and well, there is no requirement to have a "professional". Trailers have always had to conform to the construction and use regulations but some aspects of mods and new builds now come under Single Vehicle approval (SVA) where they don't have type approval.
  7. Bad idea Electric pump tank tipper units are only single acting and don't have the duty cycle needed for that application
  8. Did you know the David Brown tractor club is looking for copy for its magazine. Your tractor exploits would probably be of interest The David Brown Tractor Club :: For All Things DB
  9. What chipper is it and how far? Generally anything you are towing with "large goods" ought to be man enough but some weedy efforts just don't have the "oooomph" and the chip just blocks the thing up Test it by jamming a length if drain tube over it, some wet leylandii will be the acid test
  10. treequip

    Saw spikes

    They are called "dogs" and google is the tool for you https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=husqvarna%20felling%20dogs
  11. Your lender might well insist on a tree report
  12. For a short bar I would use a chainsaw flat file, they are cheap and sacrificial after all. A flap disc is a "fast and nasty" short cut for a longer or heavy damaged bar. The footprint of the "heel" of the drive link is a shade narrower than the bar width (which is why you get the burr in the first place) so leaving a small (tiny) bevel on the outside edge of the bar is OK and will reduce the interval it needs "dressing" No need to get pre occupied over the 90 degree angle
  13. If a file wont do it, judicious application of a 120 grit flap disc is the weapon of choice
  14. Its a business enquiry simple as, if you blow it off you may as well start chucking your advertising budget away
  15. That's fine as long as the business aren't doing the same thing. HMCE take a dim view if they are
  16. Well they have been doing it for quite a while now and they seem to be doing OK If you think this is harm full, how would it be if all the dealers binned stihl off because a few online retailers mopped up the sales and left the others with little more than servicing and warranty work.
  17. That's a well made vid, Spielberg will be getting nervous
  18. If your kit gets wet take it out and dry it, if you leave kit in a bag, you deserve the wet mouldy kit you will get.

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