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tree_beard

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Everything posted by tree_beard

  1. the ama is pretty much the same saw as the husky t425... a japanese design that has been made by the italian saw factories for years. if i wanted a lightweight 'pruning' chainsaw, i'd get one
  2. damn straight, like having a tug of war between high torque and high rpm... it would not be good for chain, clutches and possibly crankshafts (if the chain and clutches held out long enough). wouldnt end well anyway. even with two identical powerheads you'd need to tune to matching engine rpms.
  3. the cub cadets certainly look like old zenoahs with a bit of itlian flair on the top cover plastics, the blocky starter cover and rear handle sure looks like 80's japanese design to me.
  4. if its italian made in the last 15 years its probably a zenoah design, like the efco/oleo macs, the ama and the newer husky ones... older it could be an alpina? they usually look quite distinctive. not sure if olympic (who then became efco/oleo mac) ever made an in-house designed top handle, but they may well have... pic?
  5. parts diagram maybe of help to you, hope all is well otherwise mate:001_smile: http://www.usadiscountgenerators.com/PT1850%20Web%20Site/MaintenancePictures/Deutz%201011F%20Engine%20Parts%20Diagram.pdf
  6. marlow nelson 3 strand... 18mm+ if you are yanking trees down with a tractor etc hard wearing and cheeeeep
  7. a foreign object would likely cause more damage to the intake side and top of the piston... seeing as how you posted a pic of the exhaust side i'm assuming that is where the worst of the scoring is, so i'd say lean mix did the damage...
  8. a barely broken in 044 is worth every penny of £400... the shiny 440 on the bay recently had a new taiwanese top end on it... a 262xp for £160 is an absolute steal tho:thumbup1:
  9. chris willett (treemachine) is still going strong, dont think he can organise training directly, but can certainly tell you when and where his next course is happening, and get you in touch with the paper pushing folk... lynher are pretty good (the trainers anyway... dave berryman and digga both excellent) but dont do much local to redruth..
  10. oh:001_huh: it was fresh cut, live cordyline i tryed to jam the demo greenmech with... a pickup load of 4-6" stems, fronds and all. a different story with dead stuff perhaps? dead fronds do burn great tho, just put a match to it and its off.
  11. i hate cabbage palms.. hate em, and thats just to look at... disposal isnt too bad tho. the fronds (when dry) burn very well, i know a few people who collect them and tie them in a knot to use as kindling. as for the trunks/stems, it seems greenmech disk chippers chip them very well (i spent quite a while trying to clog a 6" 34hp demo machine with the stuff and it coped admirably). no access to a gm, then habitat pile it is:001_tongue:
  12. not true i'm afraid mate 'cutting the ears' will not have any bearing on the stem splitting, and will in no way prevent a barber-chair. cutting the ears is to prevent fiber-pull from the corners of the hinge, which will affect the value of the butt log, and can to a certain extent steer the tree to one side of the intended lay once the face closes...
  13. deceptive sense scale in the photo, the lines are about 25yds past the kiln chimney seen behind the fire, and that chimney is about 4ft square... thanks for the concern tho:thumbup1: (wouldnt like to say if the kiln is too close to the lines:sneaky2:, but it certainly produces £££££'s worth of pottery every year for the land-owner)
  14. i always thought farmers had a point.... why break a sweat hauling a tirfor into the woods, making 3 cuts and easing a tree down to the ground? when you can just chop lumps off the bottom until it crashes down around you... proper job why not incorperate a bore-cut, make it nice and professional looking:biggrin: i'm not convinced(but i know that sure as hell wont discourage you) but please do keep sharing your experiences with us daniel, it is interesting to see a different perspective on things:thumbup1:
  15. both come recommended... depends who you ask:001_tongue: preference is personal... try before you buy if you can, at least have a feel of both of them.
  16. nowt like a good fire:001_smile:
  17. tree_beard

    Husky 346xp

    silver clutch-covered 50cc 346xp... best 50cc saw on the market since sept 2007:thumbup1:
  18. 576 will pull a 30" bar, but it wont be quick, and will bog easily... 390 will pull 30inches with authority (and still be a darn sight lighter than your 181)
  19. the current jonsered range of saws (and all the 21 and 22 series saws) have the exact same engine internals as the husky range... the only difference is plastics and handle bar angle. 2153=346xp, 2165=365, 2171=372xp etc...
  20. very unlikely to work i'm afraid mate. in the u.k husky saws are sold with 0.058" gauge bars and chain, and stihl saws are sold with 0.063" gauge bars and chain (40-90cc saws anyhoo)... easiest option would probably be to get 0.063" gauge oregon bars for your huskys and use stihl chain on all your saws.
  21. agreed with all the sentiments on this thread. thank you mr bullman, and all the mods, sponsors and everyone else that makes it possible. just remember, your not overseeing a forum, its a life-changing force for good.... no pressure:biggrin:
  22. all rope has its uses, but if youre gonna hang your life off it... buy new! and being a big lad, i'd stick with 12mm rope, a skinny rope is likely to cut into your fingers
  23. yep... the t540xp (as pictured earlier in the thread by mesterh).... it does look more like the t435 than 338xpt though...
  24. it does look very sturdy, and probably the most professional looking pickup-tipper conversion i've seen. very smart
  25. ooooh shiny... whats the truck payload with the new butt? and how much did it set you back?

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