Justme

Yep thats about it. It did take me a long time to find the right department to phone (I will check to see if I still have the details). I did it, but in slightly different circumstances. I had a small holding with multipul parcels of land. Sold some of the land & then sold the farm house & a parcel of land but also kept some. I just told them I had split it up & sold off one part of the business but kept the other part. They then asked which postcode I wanted to use & what the company name was & the building name. Now when I do insurance or get stuff delivered the property comes up on their systems as its registered on the system. It did take a couple of years for virtually every one to have it as I guess they only buy the data base occasionally. Or you can do what my mate did & just start using the right postcode & send yourself a few letters to see what happens. If possible speak to the local posty so he knows what to look out for & which box on a post he needs to put it in. Eventually it will end up on the system.

You can get a postcode for a business address very easily. Just phone up the PO & tell them the company name & the address you want inc the postcode for where it is. To get a residential postcode you need planning as the council need to request an address / postcode from the PO.

I would prefer to buy local but it would be financial suicide. I try to give the local guys a chance first but nearly always end up getting bits online. Two recent examples:- 1, I needed a photo cell kit local price £28 + VAT, online delivered price £6 same item same maker same box. 2, Replacement diesel fuel pump for the digger local price £50 plus VAT online price £20 inc del, again same item same box same maker. So item 1 was 5.6 times more locally & item 2 was 3 times more. In both local cases I would also have lost about an hour picking them up & about £4 in fuel. The local car parts shop is normally just a few quid extra & I can get the bits the same day in most cases so he does do ok.

Doc's often advise that you take them in combination at 2 hour intervals.

Is that a weighed ton as it stands now or weighed when it was felled (IE still green) or is it an estimated tonne or even worse a "tonne builders bag" which will only hold 0.5 m3 or about 250-300kg?

I thought it depended on the drivers licence & the max gross train weight of the tow car?

I dont think they need to prove what & where. It would be up to you to prove your innocence. I am sure that using twin tanks is prohibited in the rebated fuel regs to prevent just this thing.

I built our complete wooden framed house (apart from the floor frame that was done old school with 6" nails & a good hammer) with a 50-90mm air nailer for the framing & a 10-60mm brad gun both from silverline dirt cheap of ebay. 50L 2hp compressor kept up with the framing nailer at full speed. Both are still going strong.

Thats easy, you cant compare apple & oranges. Rounds have a different surface area to squares for the same weight / volume. Different species dry at different rates & start at different moisture levels so using two species in one test has already messed with the results. Just spotted someone say its two tests so in that case each one is valid in its own right but you still cant compare one group with the other.

Using logs all of the same species, size & shape would have made the results of real value.

Whats the rush? You have a whole day yet to get it done lol. Why does everyone leave it so late to file there returns? I tend to do mine & file it on the 6th of April.

I am feeling lucky today. During the first major snow fall we had been away for a couple of days. When we got back our genny was running (thats normal its fully automatic) but there was no power - eek. Again thats not that unusual as I am always fixing it. Tried to fix it in the failing light & thought it was best to give up till the next day & start the tractor & PTO genny. So turned the key & the engine turned over about 1/2 a turn slowly & stopped. Now that could have been due to the cold, or a bad connection & I could have kept on trying to start it but I had an inkling that there was more wrong with it so I left it. Fixed the original genny using a work light. So left the tractor as it was till now as its to cold for that sort of work. So that brings us to today. My suspicion was that the heavy rain had got into the exhaust & then into the engine cylinder. Had that happened & I turned the engine over fast it could have done some serious damage. So I whipped out all 4 injectors & then turned the engine over on the starter. Quite a lot of water was ejected out of the first 2 cylinders. Kept cranking for a bit & then again after a rest. Once I was sure all the water was out I refitted all the bits after a quick clean on the injector nozzles. A long crank & she was away again so no damage. I had fitted a tin can to the top of the exhaust but obviously had done so to late. I will be getting a pair of those flap things now so I can fit them to both tractors.

The 5m3 is the complete tree not just millable or usable timber. You can only sell 2m3 of the 5m3. It is per owner & not per site.

You can always have the right hooks fitted.

Save yourself lots of work & cut them with a better (more suitable) saw.

Oh yeh I forgot they folded recently. I guess that explains the higher costs of the units that are left. We will have a bigger budget for the next one so could be looking at the smallest industrial units.

What about the noise of the lister? We live 10m away from where the genny lives. But also have a neighbour that would complain about the noise, as they did about our first genny (one of the clones) but not the P6000s. I have seen the effort some have had to go to to try to reduce the noise. 2 ton on concrete to bolt it too. Pit of doom for the exhaust to run through deep concrete & block channels under ground Very substantial block building with insulation. Ducted cooling system to allow air flow but leak not noise. Oh & wearing ear defenders when in the room.

So its nearly time for a new Generator for our off grid set up. Requirements:- diesel pref 1500 rpm quiet, very quiet, sub 60dBa. easy to maintain easy to fix stable voltage on large loads coming on & off 5 to 10 kVa single phase low fuel consumption elec start low oil shut down low fuel shut down over heat shut down reliable long expected life So which one?

The often do open days with a guided tour. Dint do one last year but we went the year before. Very interesting. If I hear (I know one of the directors) that they are doing one this year I will post it up.

Good job its cone shaped. Will hurt less once she is fed up of you ringing it.

Just thought. If you have a shuttle gear box then forward & reverse gearing would be the same.

In the correct direction they are self clearing so better on soft ground. On hard ground it make no difference. If the ground is that soft you need self clearing tyres then your already in trouble. As far as I am aware all reverses are lower geared than 1st gear on all vehicles. I know on my two tractors I go much much slower in reverse than in the lowest forward gear.

I was going to ask the same question. Much better to reverse as the rear wheels will stay on the ground, lower gearing & you can see exactly what's going on whilst still in the best driving position. It also reduces the risk of getting hit by the cable if it snaps or the tree if your line is to short.

One of the big problems with off grid sewerage systems is that most set ups also have the rain water drains (roofs & run off) going into the tank. They just don't have the capacity to cope with that.

For some reason on reading this I thought of you lot linky