Alinicoll
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Everything posted by Alinicoll
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Bleeding Broadleaf Crust | Wild About Britain Stereum rugosum i would say
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fuel tank breather or fuel line.
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Thats looking into a 200t exhaust.
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That looks like a handle with dead man handle on the right. 200t again?
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Sorry, i didn`t see your questions . At the moment it costs £50 ish per month sometimes more, over 3 years its cost me about £900. The cost is very area dependant ie you pay what others are prepaired to pay. About 13% of my traffic is pay per click which is significant for me. I can't remember how long it was before i got vouchers but i still get them now and then. The way to check who is using it is to google keywords and see who turns up.
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I fully agree. I hope the input has been helpful.
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Sure, of course i`ve felled healthy trees if the client wants them removed and i either can`t persuade an alternative or its not appropriate to keep them. You have stated that the client wants to keep the tree. Therefore if there is nothing wrong with it then it seems odd to talk them into felling it and needing work isn`t really a good reason. Obviously if you have genuine concerns then you have to make a call but its difficult to do that without first severing Ivy and seeing. Just because a tree leans a bit doesn`t mean it will fall over. Just my opinion Give him a few options and let him know the implications everything from cut ivy or reduce of fell.
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On Ash its more likely to be Pholiota.
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Isn`t Ash resistant to Honey fungus?
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Can you get away with a crown clean? Are there any major defects other than the fungus and deadwood? Is a reduction over the road going to deal with your misgivings? Its a bit difficult to work out what the fungi is but it may well be nothing so as long as the tree is sound and theres no sign of root shift then a lean isn`t a problem. Sometimes you just have to go with your intuition. Hopefully others may give some input.
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What does the rest of the tree look like?
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Why not just sever the Ivy at the base and do a bit of a climbing inspection to look for any defects? No need to fell a perfectly healthy tree.
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It looks like some knid of "cup fungi" breaking down. Not harmful. I could be wrong.
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Maybe rather than scanned testimonials try typing them out onto the page. It might look a bit neater. Otherwise, looks good to me.
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Get some leaflets out. That usually brings something in. Thats what kept me going to start with. Failing that, get a part time job, phone around for subbie work. Don`t give up! You`ll get there.
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Doesn`t look in great condition does it. If he wants to keep it and there are no targets then let it do its thing. If not monolith. if you can climb it safely. Thats what i`d do.
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My personal opinion is this. If there is major crown dieback then there is generally root dieback, particularly where Meripulus is involved. If you are in doubt get a consultants opinion. The tree may or may not be safe to climb. It may or may not be appropriate to try heavy reduction. Pictures of the crown condition might help. If the tree is old then there is a very high chance that any attempt to pollard it will kill it. However, the tree may have a high habitat value in which case monolithing may be a good option if the customers is up for that. If you monolith it and it comes back from it by some chance then thats fine. If the tree is not posing any hazard whatsoever then just let it fall to pieces.
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They are good but you have to get them right. Mine seem to get harder to get right the longer i`ve had them.
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I`d say old Merripilus too.
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Is it art?
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How different is the published version from the draft?
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Since i got a small nick on my wrist doing an awkward cut and chuck i have thought alot more before using that method. I still do use it but am much more likely to reach for the silky or a webbing strop. When i cut myself the chain was hardly turning. 2 cutters bit into my wrist. I was wearing gloves so the second cutter threw the saw away from my wrist. It was a bit of a mess but no major damage. I emphasise the chain was hardly moving. If it had been going any faster there would have been major damage. if you think you can switch off your saw faster than it can kick you are wrong my friend. I think there are many situations were cut and chuck is a valid approach but alternatives should always be considered. Wrists are soft and its not until you have a near miss that you realize how vunerable you are.
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Just make sure you are covered for everything you do. What height are you covered to? Does it include grinding and if so to what depth? Are you covered for burning etc. If they genuinly cover you properly for a good price then happy days:thumbup:
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I would personally be really careful about vague quotes. Not saying they are no good but arb insurance is a very specific thing.
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Insurance companies may ask that. I`m sure people can pm the man.
