Sambo
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Everything posted by Sambo
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You'd be surprised how little force you actually need to sharpen the average saw chain provided the file is good - even if the chain's in pretty bad shape - less force just more strokes! This means you can get away with just perching the saw on your knees or on a flat surface like the tailgate of a truck. Hold the bar steady with one hand and file with the other. It becomes second nature with a bit of practice! A lighter touch will make your files go much further too!
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We'll I wasn't sure if it was just stuck backwards or if it had gone - or even if there was supposed to be one there! Was keen to avoid a dry bar/chain due to oil not being able to get to the pump!
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Cheers for all the help guys! I don't think I've got any issues with oil to the bar and chain but I just didn't seem to be able to fish out the oil hose inside the tank - either because it is trapped back in the rear of the tank or not there! I'll have another go with something hooky! That said, I have rinsed out the oil tank with fuel as advised - that brought out a ton of gunk and old sawdust ect.! So I'd recommend that! One thing I'd add to the discussion it that if the oil pump is really not playing ball then I've found removing it completely from the machine, washing it in warm soapy water and drying it thoroughly before refitting it can work wonders!!
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If you buy about half a dozen of the earth wires and a dozen chain catchers you might make it though the year! 😁
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Alright guys?! Just a quick question if I may? I've been digging around in the oil tank of my old 200t and I can't seem to find an oil pipe or pickup body! I can't remember if they had one or where it is inside the tank! Do I need to hook it with something?! Cheers!
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I've got a 20" lightweight pro bar on my Stihl ms461. So far I haven't used it on a job but made a few cuts. Straight off you notice less effort in the cuts and the finish of the cut seems to be superior - I guess due to the high tolerance of the rail. Has anyone noticed that they seem to make less mechanical noise? Just a low hiss. Perhaps it's just me!
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Looked quite efficient! If you were doing the same with a conventional bar you'd be working right close to the ground.
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You can get a mesh version of the flocked filters on the 201 - bit easier to clean!
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Just watched a video onot youtube about the Stihl MS261 C-M new version in the states (I know I'm a bit of a geek!). But the guy mentioned there might be an M-Tronic version of the MS461 on the horizon! I recon that would be a stonking saw! Can anyone give legs to this rumour?!
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So what's the deal with the 95XTL? Is it narrower cutters but the same guage or smaller guage as well? Does it require is own bar and sprocket? Also does it only come in .325?
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Does anyone else think stihl chains are better finished? Stamped edges all inwards, no square corners (other than the sharp bits obviously!) This must cause less drag in the cut than less well finished chains?
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Stihl chainsaw seem to run smoother on stihl bars. I know that sounds a bit obvious but it just seems like other makes feel like there's more resistance (despite correct oil delivery of course). My theory is that the metals that make the bars and chains are selected to work best with each other.
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Where from dude? I have a 357xp with the bolt for the chain't brake handle broken off! Need at least the flywheel side of the crank case!
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You might find going to the bank for a loan cheaper than pay for later. Then you could buy anywhere!
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They must have started doing it again then! The 560xp I was using a couple of years ago didn't have it which was a pain coz the clutch is outboard!
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Does anybody remember when husky saws had a hollow end to the crankshaft and a hole in the side so you could shoot grease into the bearing without taking it apart!! What happened to that bit of genius?!
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Yeah. There's a little line on the outside surface of the clutch drum to help get it on - handy for shortsighted people like me! In certain positions you can also just view it from the side. Interesting how, even with the clutch drum fitted correctly it seems to side high compared to the casing with the brake ribbon quite close to the bottom. The roller bearing seems to be shorter than the inside surface of the clutch drum - seems a bit strange!
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I used to use both old and new husqvarna and stihl saws where I worked. I think modern design constraints and emissions regulations have a lot to do with the way saws are regardless of manufacturer. They just can't make the big, heavy, smokey, vibratey beasts we all reminiss about. The vast majority of my work is from a rope and harness - I welcome the light weight, power and fast response of modern saws!
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Took the clutch off and had a look at the oil pump. Seems like I've got away with any damage as I noticed the drum wobble early and put a new bearing in. A new clutch drum tightened things right up but it is a rim/spline type so I'll have to keep an eye out!
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Has anyone had the same problem with other stihl saws?
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Thanks for the info guys! I took the cover off and had a look at the mechanism. Was relieved to find it was all tight and in good condition so put a drop of WD40 on the pivoting points to free everything up. Then blew that out with compressed air so I could put a drop of 3 in 1 on the joints. It's worked fantastically well so I'll go with it for now. Will consider disassembling and greasing if the problem returns. Just need to sort the clutch drum/bearing problem and we're back in business! Cheers guys!
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In what way does it damage the oil drive?
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Alright guys! So I've got quite a new Stihl MS261 and after about 4 months operation the chain brake is getting quite stiff. Snaps on (pull back) smooth and easy but takes more effort to trigger it now. Now when I used to operate husqvarna saws this was a sign that a pivot point was damaged or out of position. Could it be something similar in Stihls? Anyone else had this situation? Any info would be greatly welcomed!
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OK in cold weather I take it? Cheers for the Intel!
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If the play in the sprocket and bearing has got noticeably high then both will probably need changing. I went to my local dealer (GDC limited) and they gave me a new bearing which was built with a metal cage. This improved the play but there was clear wear on the inside of the sprocket. A new one of them cleared the problem up! I will say though that I have a relatively new Stihl ms 461 as well and that has a bearing with a plastic cage but that's still solid as a rock. Does this mean the problem is really in the sprocket? Maybe a sprocket from another manufacturer like Oregon could be the definitive solution? By the way does anybody know what grease we should be using? Is it red fluid like on bar noses? Or something stiffer?
