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Everything posted by Sambo

  1. Recently gotten hold of a BR800 blower for my work and I'm delighted with it! Just wondered if anyone else has noticed on dry days that it seems to built up a lot of static meaning loads of dust sticks to the casing and fan housing (in some quite interesting patterns!). Also is there a chance of shock or discharge from this build up? None of this concerns me - I'm just interested to hear other people's thoughts on this machine and it's particular querks!
  2. 1: Sit down and draw up a specific set of terms and conditions which you can add to your correspondence with your contractors. Make sure you contact your contractor in writing (emails do count!) With your terms and conditions clearly included and they respond/accept in writing. 2: If you believe you have been underpaid, contact the client, in writing stating what you are owed and why. 3: USE THE SMALL CLAIMS COURT! people like us are why it exists! I was given this advice by a lady from trading standards and the police who were pulling commercial vehicles over to tell them this a couple of years ago on the way out of Colchester. The emphasis was on doing our business in writing!
  3. Partial vindication for having to use 2 rope systems. That said, if that can happen to one rope going to base then it could happen to both. Choose your climbing systems wisely!
  4. Biolubricant should be topped up to the brim to eliminate oxygen in the tank which would cause it to decay and turn to resin.
  5. Another approach is to actually try not to winterise it at all. Find a little job to do with your machines once every couple of weeks to keep things moving through. The added bonus is that you continue your usuall habits of checking and monitoring the machine for problems. Really, no machine likes being idle.
  6. Be very wary about trying to tune a 2-stroke machine before you have had a leak-down test performed on it. Even a pinhole leak or a worn crankcase seal can cause issues. The danger is that any extra air ingress will cause a lean mixture and danger of cylinder damage. In reality, there are so many other things that cause poor performance in a saw before blame can be levied on the Carburettor. If everything else is working, the carb shouldn't need to be tuned outside of the limited settings. All that said, a common cause of bogging down or loss of power can be damage to the impulse tube (between the crankcase and the carburettor) which leads to the carburettor not being able to pump fuel. It's usually an easy/inexpensive fix.
  7. There's a plethora of avenues you could take with this subject - don't forget the more subtle things like HAVS, dehydration, working in extremes of temperature or weather conditions etc. Many of these circumstances can be the subtle cause of a greater incident. One issue I've had regarding equipment is the harnesses we use and the correct adjustment to distribute the load evenly over our back and legs. I have never had the correct instruction or training to correctly fit my harnesses. I wonder how much muscular strain or skeleto-muscular injury could be relieved by better fitting or better information on the consequences of ppe no fitting correctly?
  8. I recently got this setup! the trick is to use an 8-10oz bag. sounds counter intuitive but it goes like a rocket! also plumb straight so a massive advantage when getting a line through to a small target!
  9. Washing machine every time! I've never had problems with spinning it either - gets gear dry really quick!
  10. Hi All! I was wondering if people knew any information on climbing competitions next year? regional events and suchlike? Many thanks From Sam!
  11. I often use a helmet without visor or earmuffs if I'm not using a petrol chainsaw which means I wear safety specs and (when necessary) ear plugs. My experiance with safety specs is varied - some ok, some awful! What are people's favourite safety glasses so wear with a climbing helmet? Cheers from Sam!
  12. Sambo

    E5 fuel

    Simple answer: Buy Stihl chainsaws, use Motomix. If it goes wrong: Stihl's problem!
  13. Ha! bit of delving finds that Harken make both!
  14. Yeah my next question would've been which is the knockoff?!
  15. Thanks for the replies guys! Has anyone tried the Notch Jet Step or Harken Ninja?
  16. I have been using a Pantin for a while now but just got hold of some Clip n Step boots. The Pantin just slips about now! So is there a better Foot ascender available? In the meantime how is the best way to fit the Pantin to the Clip n step boots? High? Low? Many thanks!
  17. I could have it completely wrong but I was going on some vids I've watched of James Kilpatric's setup. It seems as though in some situations he is using DRT from a floating anchor on a line which itself is base anchored and the floating anchor is an ascender. So once he's back at the ascender he can continue up. I'm with you though on the SRT! Got a rope wrench at the beginning of the year to try it and loved it ever since! I do like my spiderjack and ropeguide for tigher crowns and those sorts of trees where your up,down,in,out,over under etc. If you know what I mean?!
  18. I'm looking to do a competition in September so I've been watching a few videos. It seems like a popular setup is to go up on an access line but be connected to an ascender by your DRT system. So ascend to a point where you want to go out on a limb. Go out and back on DRT then continue up on the access line.
  19. You'll get the best out of SRT if you use it in conjunction with DRT as opposed to 'switching over'. I've found, since I started using SRT (and subsequently using throwlines much more) that setting my access system in the centre crown as high as I can gets me into the tree but if there's a big or long limb to visit then setting another DRT system from the ground is really handy! So SRT up into the crown and for the most part but then use the mechanical advantage of the DRT to get you up or out that awkward limb you set up before!
  20. Haha yeah I was looking through for some info about setting the Ropeguide twinline from the ground and got sidetracked! Hey ho!
  21. If you have the ropeguide in a choker situation then giving the rope a good sideways jerk (try to send quick 'ripples' up the line) can help get the cam loosened when retrieving. Once unlocked, the sling should continue to lengthen until the pulley can come though.
  22. It's a bit of a misconception to refer to toothed ascenders by how "agressive" they are. The points on the cam of an ascender are there to allow them to part the fibres of the rope without damaging them thereby creating a much greater surface area to spread the load over. When used with a suitable rope such as kernmantle, the teeth help to grip both the inner and outer layers of the rope simultaneously. (I don't mean to call out your post Haironyourchest or criticise in any way. I just hear people talking about ascenders a lot in a way that isnt strictly correct). That said, you're dead right. These devices are only good for one thing - going up! 😀
  23. Getting your rope through some sort of cambium saver as soon as possible in the job saves a lot of shite build up as it stands the rope off the tree. Also bung your textile equipment in the washing machine with some Beal rope wash or Teufelber Scrubba or suchlike - conifer sap comes out fairly well! Also sunflower oil takes it off your hardware a treat! Just wash in soapy water and dry well after!
  24. Many SRT systems are derived from a DRT system so to me it seems feasible to use the rope doubled over to access and then convert to SRT at the anchor point. It's not as if its "cheating" or anything! 😂


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