Sambo
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Everything posted by Sambo
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I have been using a Pantin for a while now but just got hold of some Clip n Step boots. The Pantin just slips about now! So is there a better Foot ascender available? In the meantime how is the best way to fit the Pantin to the Clip n step boots? High? Low? Many thanks!
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I could have it completely wrong but I was going on some vids I've watched of James Kilpatric's setup. It seems as though in some situations he is using DRT from a floating anchor on a line which itself is base anchored and the floating anchor is an ascender. So once he's back at the ascender he can continue up. I'm with you though on the SRT! Got a rope wrench at the beginning of the year to try it and loved it ever since! I do like my spiderjack and ropeguide for tigher crowns and those sorts of trees where your up,down,in,out,over under etc. If you know what I mean?!
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I'm looking to do a competition in September so I've been watching a few videos. It seems like a popular setup is to go up on an access line but be connected to an ascender by your DRT system. So ascend to a point where you want to go out on a limb. Go out and back on DRT then continue up on the access line.
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You'll get the best out of SRT if you use it in conjunction with DRT as opposed to 'switching over'. I've found, since I started using SRT (and subsequently using throwlines much more) that setting my access system in the centre crown as high as I can gets me into the tree but if there's a big or long limb to visit then setting another DRT system from the ground is really handy! So SRT up into the crown and for the most part but then use the mechanical advantage of the DRT to get you up or out that awkward limb you set up before!
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It was only a matter of time!
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Haha yeah I was looking through for some info about setting the Ropeguide twinline from the ground and got sidetracked! Hey ho!
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If you have the ropeguide in a choker situation then giving the rope a good sideways jerk (try to send quick 'ripples' up the line) can help get the cam loosened when retrieving. Once unlocked, the sling should continue to lengthen until the pulley can come though.
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It's a bit of a misconception to refer to toothed ascenders by how "agressive" they are. The points on the cam of an ascender are there to allow them to part the fibres of the rope without damaging them thereby creating a much greater surface area to spread the load over. When used with a suitable rope such as kernmantle, the teeth help to grip both the inner and outer layers of the rope simultaneously. (I don't mean to call out your post Haironyourchest or criticise in any way. I just hear people talking about ascenders a lot in a way that isnt strictly correct). That said, you're dead right. These devices are only good for one thing - going up! ?
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Getting your rope through some sort of cambium saver as soon as possible in the job saves a lot of shite build up as it stands the rope off the tree. Also bung your textile equipment in the washing machine with some Beal rope wash or Teufelber Scrubba or suchlike - conifer sap comes out fairly well! Also sunflower oil takes it off your hardware a treat! Just wash in soapy water and dry well after!
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Many SRT systems are derived from a DRT system so to me it seems feasible to use the rope doubled over to access and then convert to SRT at the anchor point. It's not as if its "cheating" or anything! ?
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It's a funny feeling tending your rope in tiny increments as you come in off a branch using SRT as opposed to reeling miles of rope for DRT! The weird thing about SRT is you think it's going to be all frantic and complicated but once you get your head around it it's actually a very smooth and uncluttered way to climb. You just have to take a very deliberate, pragmatic attitude up with you!
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Anyone interested in some nearly new bits?
Sambo replied to Sambo's topic in SRT (Single Rope Technique)
Sort of faffing about with all of it right now! -
Or on lower limbs you can go out and then back in then up on your ascending gear to next branch. It actually takes less effort than you think surprisingly - provided you have a high enough anchor point or vertical enough working line. I thought I was going to have redirects all over the place but in reality you can still climb fairly conventionally. The time using ascenders is offset by the speed and ease of actually ascending. For limb walking SRT is quite convenient because of the consistency of friction and simplicity of the system as you head out. Then the direct feel as you bring yourself in is very reassuring - hold the rope for balance and take in slack under the pulley.
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Put simply, why would you knowingly add more force than necessary to any system? - be it climbing or rigging!
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Yup, Same here! Also, in many of the places I've worked, where a job is big and elaborate enough to consider a climber and have a rescue system in place, then why not have two climbers working? If one climber needs assistance the other is already in the canopy. Also two climbers in the tree shorten the duration that risky task!
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I have a double leg stiff tether which covers the top hole so I put the tether/hitch/caribiner in bottom hole and clip chest harness to middle.
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How do you get on with a neck elastic and the HAAS? I found that one worked against the other and my system sort of bungee'd up and down!
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Do you find that clipping the HAAS to the ring on your Chester means that the elastic is coming out of the tube at an awkward angle - potentially accelerating wear at the end of the tube?
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If, like me you're moving on to SRT from years of DRT then getting a throwline onto and isolated around a crotch is a pretty well rehearsed technique. In most cases I'm finding I can get a top tie-in point organised for either SRT or DRT in roughly the same time as it would take me to set up a "belayable" base anchor. The bonus is usually a top tie-in point can be switched from SRT to DRT relatively easily - handy for rescue or switching climbers part through a job!
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Agreed! It's something you should be aware of before you start your saw - "how do I bail from here if this comes back at me" / "If this fucker kicks, will I or my line be in it's way" are always at the forefront of my mind using saws in trees.
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Couple of sites have size options of standard or large but others don't. Used the chester a couple of times now and it's actually ok - it pulls down and goes into the right place when you're using it if that makes sense. I'd guess if I had a bigger one it'd end up too low!
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What Size do you find is best? I have a standard - feels a bit small!
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What's the big ring for and how does it not just slip round? Also why are you calling it Solo and using Chewbacca to advertise it?
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Would this topic be classed as Click-Bait?!
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I guess it's just where something mechanical is in contact with the rope. Look inside a Spiderjack after a busy day and it'll be full of fluff!
