Rob D

I reckon you could get someone in they should be able to rough out the sections of the bench by hand - reading your other posts it sounds like really you need someone to come in and just cut away most of the wood roughly so that you can take your time finishing it off. It's prob around 2 to 3 hours work freehand although not pleasant work with the tip of the saw constantly buried but there may be someone on here local to you that would come and do it and £100-00 a fair price.

P.S the oiler went on my MS880 as well (14 months old once a fortnight use) so got the uprated oiler fitted - only £105-00+ :sneaky2:

It sounds to me like: You have the 47" Duromatic bar? It's the solid bar that usually comes with the saw. It has no sprocket nose - and that's the problem. The nose gets hot and the chain goes from feeling very tight to very slack. Why do Stihl not do a 4ft sprocket nose? They do a 59" sprocket nose? It's crazy :confused1: But this bar causes problems all the time on this saw - an older 070,090,075,076 with their slower revs it's no problem. Get a 46" Sugihara instead!

I have just put in an order for the next load of Sugi bars. These will have the 13", 15" for the Huskys and is dedicated Husky mount so will fit the 550 and 560. Also they are the light type bars, and they have the cut outs and resin that maintain all the good points about a solid bar but a lighter weight. Soon I will putting them up on the website as a pre order i.e. Keep meaning to do it but get too tired to work it all out but will be this week

Done - yep that is a bit of an odd one!

I don't know sometimes I've put a vid up and it shows a link then after half an hour or so it then turns into a picture... but I think maybe to do with the code you use... but not sure really!

The 090 doesn't rev as high as an 880 but it just keeps on driving and driving through the wood. It's a nicer saw to use in some ways.

Great stuff - are you going to mill it? Or does the metal work put you off!

Yep will be doing some basics on bars and chains and sharpening... used to write for FBT (Forestry and British Timber) mag for a couple of years but now going to re sharpen the old pencil Most magazines are always looking for regular contributors so if you ever feel like doing something just do it and send it in... if they don't like it do something else and send that in....

Where abouts are you attaching the other end of the winch line? I've had no probs with the back rails lifting - it seems to stay flat on the log all the way down...

Another one!

Yes Bob Slade told me about that - do they have an online version you can download at all?

Neither - he's supposed to charge a proper rate to earn better money for himself! Dear oh dear oh dear

If you read his post he's saying he doesn't make good money

Just to be constructive and please don't take this the wrong way - it was a great pic you posted but what about the rest of the info? More pics? Length of tree? Diameter and how does it taper? Any soft pockets? Access? Rough area of location? When does it need to be cleared by? If milled on site what about sawdust clear up? does the client want money for it or happy to see it gone? If you're going to take the time to put a thread up take the time to give the details and you'll get a better response and better offers.

I had a load of GB bars 3 years ago where the paint melted off very very quickly - but the bars seemed pretty good. I wouldn't worry too much but I know what you mean. Try a sugihara bar - paint lasts a long time before showing any wear (sorry couldn't resist) but on a more serious note I would say the Sugiharas are the better bars in every way - and if you doubt it I will give your money back!

These threads always come back to the same thing IMO. Treework is underpaid = too many uninsured and unqualified undercutting. The public do not recognise any certification or existing body ie. like in gas 'Corgi' registered, that they will insist upon to do the job. We need to pull together under one scheme or one recognised 'body' that the public will then understand and recognise and ask for and pay for. But it all gets so convoluted just discussing it let alone doing it!! Just my opinion - not trying to be defeatist but a realist. Nothing will change in near future IMO in the way the tree working industry is regarded by the public and people in general. :sneaky2:

Yep it's that one - works fine I'm going to get a couple more as well - one for the 56" mill as don't want to have to keep changing it over

Looks good Mike - I like the anchor pulley although if you have a small strop that is anchored to the ground it sort of follows you down as you get lower to the ground and keeps a bit of tension over the long round handle. A winch like this does make milling a whole new experience though!

As from the other thread in case you missed it!

I have some cannon bars I want to move on - so below cost price! Chainsawbars ? chainsaw chains, chainsaw bars and chainsaw accessories 12" Cannon CSB C1 12 50 - for MS200T etc £40-00 16" Cannon CSB S1 16 63 3 - for midsize Stihl saws £50-00 (has 3/8" nose) this bar will fit your MS290. 16" Cannon CSB S1 16 63 2 - for midsize Stihl saws up to 066 £50-00 (has .325 nose) 18" Cannon CSB S1 18 63 3 - for mid size Stihl saws up to 066 £60-00 (has 3/8" nose) 18" Cannon CSB S1 18 63 2 - for mid size Stihl saws up to 066 £60-00 (has .325" nose) 30" Cannon CSB S1 30 63 3 - for 065,MS650 or 066,MS660 etc £80-00 36" Cannon CSB S1 36 63 3 - for 066 or MS660 etc £90-00 30" Cannon CSB H1 30 -058 - 3 - for Husky £80-00 41" Cannon (woodland pro) CSB S2 41 63 4 - for Large Stihl 070, 090, 088, MS880 £100-00 All the above +vat but you do get a further 10% arbtalk disc (sign up here Chainsawbars ? chainsaw chains, chainsaw bars and chainsaw accessories then tell me so I can set discount). Prices should be there on site - just put your chainsaw in. Only have x1 of most of these so first come first served.

Cannon do a full range of bars for all applications. You could use carving bars for tree work - no reason not to but why would you? Carving bars have small nose tips with no sprocket on the end - much more friction and you have to run a slack chain.

Good stuff Mike - see how the cable works but I think having the stretch in the cable is better as it evens the pull more.

Ha ha excellent