b101uk

high roof (9.5ft) 40ft container are ~76m3 as are high open roof ones standard height (8.5ft) 40ft container is ~67m3 as are standard open roof ones

its because you haven’t observed getting the tyre pressure right so the tyre SLR across all your tyres match so that all the tyres then work at the same radius. if the SLR don’t mach when you lock the centre diff it is promoting slip due to the different working radius between the front and rear axles, the unlocked centre diff stops this, though matching SLR via altering tyre pressure or by having the same pressure in all the tyres and then matching axel loads by adding some weight above the lightest axel so SLR then is matched by weight rather than pressure difference will alleviate this. SLR is the distance from the hub centre to the ground and stands for Static Laden Radius.

I would check with your insurance company, the implication of your sentence is the vehicle you intend to drive MUST also have insurance on it that is in the name of its owner. Thus a vehicle that has tax and MoT and belong to someone else but has NO insurance valid for it would mean your insurance to drive that other vehicle would be invalid!

the crane winch or the EV300? I have been looking at forestry winch of late Bob, just wating for my mog cab to get hear

true hydraulic HP = flow in L * pressure in Bar / 600 = HP e.g. 35L * 204bar / 600 = 11.9HP BUT most small winch only work on >140bar to <180bar which if on run off the above e.g. then would be >8.16HP to <10.5HP so you would need to spec the right pressure motor to get the best out of a winch for your digger max pressure

1: The force is weak in this one. 2: I knew I should have gone for the Darth Vader look rather than just an imperial stormtrooper!

Hydraulic would be by far the cheapest option as you already have the hydraulic supply and an electric winch with such small alternators and batteries would soon run flat. You would just need to put “Y” pieces into the relevant breaker pipes down near kingpin (only if you have a 3 pipe system) so the arm can still work but you wont be able to slue as there are only a limited number of rotary couplings to the undercarriage, the only other way is to terminate the pipes for the blade ram with a double 3 way rotary valve (or double 3 way solenoid valve) fixed on the blade then send 2 pipes to the ram and 2 pipes to the winch, all you would do then is lower the blade in the normal way, move the rotary valve to isolate the blade and supply the winch, then hay-presto the lever for the blade up and down works the winch in and out, also you maintain full function of the arm and the slue, however the winch would need mounting in such a way that when the blade is up or down it doesn’t foul the counterweight, which is easer on a zero tail swing machine than a normal one.

Apparently before his death he slipped into a Korma

If yours has an om352 you will find they are harder to start in the cold because the inlet manifold routing within the head cools the air quite a lot, also normal gas oil doesn’t help matters. You would do best to take a sample of fuel to see if waxing has started, if its still see threw then you can discount waxing. To make starting much easer when waxing is not a problem and ONLY if you NOT using a start-pilot just lift the bonnet, use a screw driver to undo the hose clamp that connects the large rubber pipe (from air filter) to the end of the metal inlet pipe that goes around the front of the engine, hold the rubber pipe out of the way and then hold a lit blowlamp pointing towards the metal inlet pipe wile someone turns the engine over, if you don’t have a blow lamp then a electric heat gun/paint stripper ot hair dryer or a bit of lit newspaper wafted near the pipe will heat the air up promoting ignition.

the engine should be turning before you start to give in a couple of slow pumps. (however given the placement of the key and the pump it is quite hard! )

Clean up the earths and also make sure your starter motor bolts are tight to the flywheel housing so it earths well. Check there is voltage to the glow plugs and if necessary test them. If you have a heat gun or even the wife/etc hair dryer or some lit newspaper etc and a second person available, disconnect the intake pipe some ware after the air filter (appropriate for the heat type your using) and blow/waft/position heat so on starting warm air gets sucked in which will drastically aid starting in the cold.

Yes I seam to recall them being ~£250 new back in 1985. That said they would be easy enough to knock up for a lot less money including galvanising and with a little extra thought they could double up as bridging ladders, but then if I wanted a set I would make them rather than buy them at that price, but they would be the better longer type which I have a CAD modal of

I second Wolverhampton Tree Service

there is a big difference between the “run-in period” from when full power/rpm/load can be used to when something is bedded in and running fully at its optimum which takes place a significant time later.

Just remember there can be vast differences between “clays” which is a general term Clay can range from something that is quite pervious and expand & contracts dependent an moisture levels to a hard shale which is almost impervious to water/moisture.

So how do you verify a “professional” user and how far back can you check on qualifications

almost all equipment that is currently run on "gas oil" in the UK is tuned from the factory to run on DERV to BS EN590 as that is what most of the EU use, in the UK "gas oil" is CN46 to BS 2869 Class A2 and D which has a higher ignition delay than ULS gas oil (>CN51 exceeding BS 2869 Class A2 and D also to BS EN 590) or DERV (>CN51 to BS EN 590) the higher the CN rating the shorter the ignition delay, if you use longer ignition delay fuel (CN46 gas oil) then cold is worse and power is less and it smokes more because the combustion is not perfectly timed, looking the other way i have NOT come across a single machine that hasn’t run better and put out more power and less smoke on DERV or ULS gas oil than on CN46 gas oil.

So would just supplying the power head without the bar & chain get around the silly Stihl imposed rules, as its NOT a chainsaw without a bar/chain.

Then you would know its always harder to get a smaller digger on or off a lorry like that than a much bigger digger off/on the ~same hight

there is nothing new about "ULS gas oil" which is DERV with red dye in old type "Gas oil" will still be around for use in heating systems, stationery engines, rail loco #, and sea going boat/ship. # Jan 2012 ULS gas oil is ~£0.02p/L more than "gas oil" ANY "gas oil" you have in stock on or after Jan 1st 2011 can be used as normal, when your next reorder ask for "ULS gas oil" which will also make ALL your equipment run cleaner and start easer and have a little more power, some of us were using this >7 years ago. at a later date a low sulphur version of "gas oil" will be made that conforms to the same properties & CN as currant "gas oil" rather than the higher standards of DERV & ULS gas oil.

No company should be forced to keep on staff it can ill afford which if they did have to it would risk ALL the jobs, as for ageism in who’s selected getting shot of the older people its the most obvious thing to do, as they are the people who if they got shot of all the younger people they would be forced to replace sooner and retrain there replacements unlike if the older people go.

When you burn out your master light switch, its cheaper to buy the old type with the bullet type connecters and cut them off and splice in the spade connector of the knackered master switch It’s the same switch unit its just that the later spade connector adds £20 to the older £17 switch!

I owe £0.00p I sleep very well

Weigh up the fact that if you use the extra torque it will use more fuel than before, as it all adds up to g/Kwh & If Nissan ever find it you can kiss goodbuy to your warranty If your ever in an accident and haven’t notified the insurers and its found then they could void your insurance and in turn the police will prosecute you for no insurance etc

night blindness can also be termed as in the time it takes for eyes to adjust and the fading of peripheral vision at night, you can still have night blindness and see in the dark to pick up £50 notes also passing the MoT dose not mean your lights are set correctly, it just means they are both the same level and can be some way beneath what they should be.