Brushcutter

I generally tend to put the top cut in first at about 70 degrees. Just find it easier to aim at that angle. The exception is when doing big hardwoods or where i need to be very accurate tend to do the bottom cut first. I just prefer the sighting with the saw in the horizontal plane. As for the felling cuts dogs tooth, split level, pie cut, conventional use them all. Face cuts like the humbolt and swanson have their place but leave higher stumps. All the felling cuts form a tool box and knowing what one to use when will make life easier and safer. The more you know the better:001_smile: Oh always make the cut above the or level to make it easier to get off the stump. Also going higher means its harder for it to kick back off the stump.

Had a 9" Kwikchip. Had a turntable which was its best feature, until you have one you don't realise how useful it is. As for what its like. Did what it needed to do quite well, only 9" chipper i've used. Had it on a 390 2wd and Valtra A95 it chipped well didn't like skinny stuff so much and if you clogged it up it was a pain to clear it. It had a nice big feed hopper so you could crane feed it. I could never get the speed control for the rollers to actually slow the rolllers down though. It was turning or not. Having gone to a 12" bandit running on the same Valtra you could see it was a slow chipper in comparison. No stress kicking was the biggest slow down on it. It did the job for many years i think nearly 10 years with very little work on it. It was a solid chipper. Profiline 431 i think.

Keep it. As soon as it goes 5 or 6 narrow access jobs will come along..... its always the way. Why does it need new drum and bearings?

Surely the sports guy is showing you stretches to do at home? I have stretches for my neck,sholders hips knees and ankles shown to me by my ostio to keep me going. My best advice would be take a week off and keep it warm. Avoid anything repetitive, typing computer games etc.

I thought they were a bit on the pricey side. Maybe i'm wrong:confused1:

I took a guess based on the quote of 20k for a good recon keto 51. Although with a computer and measuring module its going to be a lot cheaper. Need a big base unit for it though.

I'd of thought around the 40k region for the 100.

this any good to you? Case 1210 - United Kingdom

The Ketos are good heads. The tracks work quite well on hardwoods too. Only problem is that the valve block is a little tight and if you break a hose in there you have to take off about 4 to do the one you need too.

What head is on it? Looks like a Keto?

Did you contact Haix or the people your got them from?

Had mine 14 months and within the last month they've fallen apart. Both soles split away and the edges tearing away. Not happy as all they've really done is forwarding and milling in them really.

I find that spikes slip around the sole as the heel isn't very pronounced. Anybody know how long the warranty is on them? website says a 2 years various suppliers say 1,

Me too. Looks in very good nick for its age.

Ask Highland Forestry on here. He has one and uses it a fair amount. I've only ever used it in slow gear so i don't know about the gear box. Things to check: Crane - Should have a plate on it somewhere can show conformity ie reach, lift capacity, serial number etc. Even though it doesn't need to be LOLERd get it done. Just proves the pins, bushes etc are all ok and fit for purpose. Base unit. Cracks/wear in the centre joint. Play in the steering cylinders and leaks from. Cracks in the chassis ROPS/FOPS/OPS in the cab somewhere there will be a plate giving details of the safety cab. Window condition make sure all the marguard pannels fit in the windows properly. Leakings from the valve block. If the gearbox has a hydraulic gear shift check the oil isn't leaking from one to the other. Reduction hubs full of oil Really if you have the safety cab data and the crane data you'll be put together a case of it being fit for purpose with LOLER/PUWER bits of paper.

1210s are solid little forwarders, well infarct their quite big. I didn't like the one i had to drive as it was 6 wheeled and i can't be dealing with that, not when there were 8 wheeled machines on site. No problem with the machine really. Like all old forwarders check for wear on the center joint, play in steering cylinders and for any odd noises coming from the work pump. Especially the work pump as its a PITA to do one in the field. Valmet 820 is what you really want if your going into that era of forwarder but they're getting rarer and rarer in good nick.

Tried Trust? You also get a 10% discount as a FCA member.

What sort of money?

Tried Wilsons they might have an old set sitting around.

I expect it should be around 3/4 full.

Nice set up. A Stenner?

Bandit 150 PTO. This one runs off a 90hp Valtra A95 or a 90ish MF 4355. It will take crane feeding i do with another machine. Just got to be careful not to over feed it. Works really well as a hand fed machine as well. Global recycling are great to deal with and the Bandit machines are bomb proof. That chipper is nearly half the weight of the tractor! The do a sliding headstock for it so you can center the hopper up for road transport and fitting through gates and stuff easily. If money is no object then look at the 250xp same set up but with a much bigger hopper.

I had this with a Shell. In the end i sent off a picture of the can all the EN numbers and CE markings to Shell in a letter. Simply stating why such a can could not be filled up at their petrol stations. Got a letter back that said it could which i photocopied and lamenated to show to the little oik each time i went back.

Water ballasted tyres especially on the front will drastically change the handling characteristic of your tractor. As for weights they're expensive if you can find some. Do you have a loader on the tractor. Big log in there will help stability. Just be careful i've nearly upended a tractor winching windblown beech of a slope and my boss has torn the back end of a David Brown doing the same thing. If your a one man band surely spending a few hundred quid to work with a experienced guy for a few days to teach you. It's very handy to have someone on the radio down slope to make sure your not snagging on stump. I've snagged on a stump winching on my own. First few rode over it the last one broke the cable (nylon cored so even though it was 12m out the whole 50m cable needed re doing. Having a helper would of saved a 100 quid on a new cable and a lost day of production.

Might be worth finding someone with experience with windblow and winching to help you out for a day.