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Brushcutter

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Everything posted by Brushcutter

  1. I like cutting 2.2 or 2.4 in hardwood if I have to stack by hand. Bends tend to cut out better in 2.2 and even butt ends can be stacked at that size. You also can convert a little further up the tree. Softwoods 3m Is easier or 2.8 if it is heavy stuff. As a forwarder driver I like as long as possible I would rather stack 4.8 on the machine than 2 bays of 2.4. over the years I've cut everything from 2m to 5m. For the lorry 4 bays of 3m is best.
  2. I mostly put hardwood through it. But in a similar way when I have overloaded it with the rollers quick and then you block it. Which is a bit of a pita to unblock when you do it properly and the whole flywheel chamber is full too.
  3. The 165 is a fantastic chipper. It's a solid bit of kit. I prefer it to the timberwolf and the forst but the forst would be a close second. I've spent more time with tracked version that the towed. Either way greenmech has sorted it with this machine. The arborist 150 is a toy compared to the 165d. Feed rollers are really strong. I think I've only blocked the thing once...
  4. Often cheaper under one combined policy. Also most companies won't touch chippers or tools without insuring something else as well.
  5. How was it today? Debating going but not sure if it's worth the 5 hour round trip?
  6. I've used smartlog and merit check. For tool checks merit check works really well. Other things work well in smartlog. Not sure if there is an arb specific one.
  7. Tariff number would be the easiest place to start I would think.
  8. I have a teng one which was about 140 quid it goes up to 350nm I think. It's one where you unlock it and turn it to the correct torque. If you spend more you can get digital read outs and beeps rather than clicks. Cheaper than a blade through the side of the chipper. I've always used one I even get the thing calibrated which is 40 quid.
  9. The DR mowers are quite good. I'm a big fan of BCS flail/rotary setups but they can be a real pain to move around. Depends on what you are.cutting but I use to do a lot of footpath cutting with a wheeled strimmer not a bad finish and it was fairly quick.
  10. Milwaukee do a cordless compressor. Surely the purchase of this will allow the cleaning of saws in fields, workshop and on the tailgates of pickup trucks.
  11. Stihl ms400 the most underrated saw in the Stihl lineup. I'd have one over the 562xp.
  12. Most trees in the UK can be done with a 15" bar. When training beginners and people who know a lot less than they think they struggle to get round a 15" bar in a timely manor achieving an accurate sharpen. There is also a lot to cover on a chainsaw course so spending hours sharpening huge chains on knackered saws the boss sent for some professional maintenance is really a waste of time.
  13. On a side note are house insurance, national insurance, health insurance and vehicle insurance all.part.of the same insurance racket? I know volcano insurance is legit. Asking for a friend.
  14. Up until recently the Stihl one was over 100 quid cheaper. I really wanted the husky one but at nearly 850 with the vat from some suppliers and an unknown delivery date I nearly got the Stihl.
  15. When do you think the really overpriced rear handle one will be available?
  16. Over the years I've had may set ups. Depending on what I am doing. The 50cc saw with a 13" or 15" bar is my go to and has been for many many years. If I'm doing slightly bigger stuff I tend to go for a 60cc saw with an 18" bar. This covers most situations. If I was to pick one id just have a 50cc.saw with bars from 13 15 and 18 inch bars. If I could take two I'd have a 70cc with and 18 and 24 inch bars. I've always had husky saws but if you wanted one saw I'd be tempted by the ms400.
  17. Seems the right sort of money. Use to use one a bit bigger than that. Are you going to run it 3 phase or swap it to 240
  18. Mcconel power trim I think it is called. It has 4 circular saws in a row and the biggest one will do up to 6" You will need a bit tractor to put it on. There are dealerships that have them in their hire fleets. You do need to be a good operator to make it work well.
  19. 4m to 1,8m is quite a reduction. If any of the growth is over about 3" the flail will make a big mess of it so you maybe better off with a saw blade rather than a flail. I normally flail with a baby flail on 100hp tractor and that is a 5m reach flail so you are already looking at quite the tractor flail set up to do it. If you don't have cab glass on the avsnts make sure you have some operator protection because the flails throw stuff everywhere including in the cab.
  20. I think the code 107 limits you to 8.2 ISH tonnes with a trailer on your c1+e. All depends on what the arb tipper is. If it is a 3,5 tonne vehicle everything is easy. If it is a 7.5 tonne then it will be more complicated. Not sure if being for private use will except you from insoections
  21. Tried Alpine Forestry. From memory they are Northampton based
  22. I think there is a lot of truth in that. As cool as a county is it lacks the versatility and comfort of a modern 6 cylinder tractors. Same with harvesters and forwarders.
  23. Hedge cutting is a rewarding yet soul destroying job. When your done it looks great but getting there is very hard work. If you are starting out then get a battery hedge cutter the vibrations are significantly reduced making it more pleasant and will give you some longevity doing the job. Really you need hand held and a long reach one. Normally just a rough cutting one will do but if you get some nice tight yew or layland a fine trimmer does make a difference. The tidy up is the hard bit. A tarp leaf blower rakes and brushes are a must. If your trimmings are leafy a low cut on a good mower can make a big job to easier.

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