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Brushcutter

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Everything posted by Brushcutter

  1. I like your winching Larch video...with the age old line i may of been a bit ambitious with this one.
  2. That's just editing.......
  3. Nice work.
  4. To be honest i'm not old enough to be a County man. Valmets and the creature comforts that come with them are my thing.
  5. Steering can be a bit of a physical work out. The seat is best a bit of padding on some metal with a back at worst a metal seat with no back. To use the crane the controls of which are normally on the right side means you sit in a awkward way pull some leavers and get rocked around buy the roof mount. The windows are normally gone so you are a mixture of hot cold and deaf. The vibration through the seat isn't that bad but its noticeable. Plus side it will go anywhere and it will always be worth a small fortune even if it looks like it's worked 20 hours a day since it was built.
  6. Although dragging out buy hand might be slightly easier on the body.
  7. You can pimp a County up any way you like it's hard days work using it.
  8. These may be of use. http://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/FCFG004.pdf/$FILE/FCFG004.pdf The orginal and the best http://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/FCFB002.pdf/$FILE/FCFB002.pdf http://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/FCBK032.pdf/$FILE/FCBK032.pdf
  9. Yes and no..... A lot of old tractors lack some items to make them H&S compliant but can be retrofitted. Things like roll bars and PTO guards. I'm not sure a £700 quid tractor would be worth the investment. A good trailer to go behind it would be more money than the tractor. Good points something like a 135 should be able to be towed behind a landy, parts are easy to find and they're fairly simple to fix.
  10. I prefer a pistol style grease gun as its easy to use. I use Draper ones I've also got a side leaver one for harder to grease big things. A locking coupler is a good investment as well.
  11. It's a modified Humbolt; a Humbolt should be half as wide as it is deep. Where as a Swanson should be as deep as it is wide. So Swanson can be anywhere from 20-30% deep and the same proportion wide on the slope. It's used to make sure the butt hits the ground first in steep slope felling, keeps roll to a minimum as well. Works well with big sticks with skinny tops, like in the video.
  12. It's like hens teeth. You don't get that much Sitka in Herts mostly Larch, Norway and Hemlock. That a pines lots of pines Chilterns Conservation Board are always worth a shout. They had some quality Douglas a few years ago. Just be aware that CCB timber is expensive standing. Other than that try Herts Coutryside Management Service. They may be looking to do some work in woodlands they manage.
  13. I'm sure you had some going across the hill with the line below to catch them, which to me is as close to contour felling as you get.
  14. Nice bit of contour felling there. Love all the Swanson face cuts on those big Spruce sticks. I think my favorite bit was what 6am looks like, not something you see in everyday videos. Looked a nice day too, almost makes me want to do it full time again....
  15. If your resting the saw on the trunk to get close then your not building up your muscles.
  16. Not on one of my courses they aren't. I think the biggest problem is that many trainers come from the Arb side rather than forestry.
  17. From memory it's EP90 but it's been a while since i did it. Check your manual or ring Wilsons.
  18. I am. Forestry man myself.
  19. Get a 4 furrow plough. 3 can be a total pain to get set up, its either pulling down at the front or twisting down the axis. 4 sits a little better and once you go to 4 furrows you normally get hydraulic vari-width which makes life a little easier. Personally I'd run the sub soiler over it to break it up then plough it. Then either dyno drive or power harrow it. Drill the grass in and give it a good roll with a set of Cambridge. I'd be thinking of leaving it till spring cultivations now anyway.
  20. I'm currently with them. I asked them to send my policy documents by post but they never arrived. Come renewal time i never got anything through so i rang up, they had sent two letters out apparently. Which said it was auto renewal and it would be taken on day x. Which was two days before i rang up so i got £700 quids worth of insurance with no quote. Didn't have time to argue so learnt a lesson. Next day my new policy documents turned up....day after that the first renewal notice turned up next day the second.. NFU are expensive but they are good.
  21. Unless you buy one yourself not a chance in hell of getting your hands on one. I've been a forwarder driver for many years but when i left the game an i needed one for a job i couldn't get one for love nor money. Well not that i could drive myself. Unless your good its probably cheaper and easier to get someone to do the forwarding for you.
  22. Bigger flails would do 3-4" but once you get to big stems they tend to shatter with the force of the flailing. Maybe a circular saw on a side arm would be a better option.
  23. A 180hp is a big tractor for a side arm for hedges. I've used a 100hp for a 5m 1.2m head with boot flails. Currently have a 5m on a 125hp with a pro trip on comp flails and its brilliant. If you go for big reach flails or big heads then higher horse power and bigger tractor come into into its own. We have a contractor who runs M series John Deeres with come forward Mcconnel flails only around about 135hp though. and they do massive amounts of roadsides, ditches and hedges. I think rates are around about £35 an hour but i'd want more for the tractor wear as well. Considering that a set of new boot flail,shackle and mounting bolt come to about 40 quid each.
  24. Do you have a free flow return valve? If you do put the return on that, goes back to the tank meaning you get no back pressure on the valve restriction.

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