Brushcutter

I have the 345fx short shafted clearing saw. Fantastic bit of kit a little under powered for knocking over 6" timber but keep it sharp and and anything below that it goes through nicely. Put the brushknife on it and it mulches up things nicely. Haven't got a chance to use it as a clearing saw recently but i shocked people with the size of wood i'd tackel with it. I too live clearing saws i have the NPTC in it (really hard to find a course on it) also did the LANTRA one who have 2 one for stuff below 2" and one for above 2"

4WD TIMBER FORWARDING TRAILER - Arbtalk Classifieds one for sale in the classifieds

Thats our set up Vatra A95 with 10/11 tonne Botex trailer with 5050 crane. lifts just under 1.5t close in and has about a 5m reach. It came from Jas P wilsons a long time ago. Check out Jas P Wilson for trailers. They have some good stuff S/H and do a full range of Botex and Farma cranes. Thing to ask your self is what you need it to do? Are you going to be pulling an 11 tonne trailer up a wet steep slope if so you may want to invest in a driven trailer and some band tracks. Also think what your going to pull it with our little A95 is way to small for that trailer. Hope to upgrade to a N series Valtra with a 570TL roofmount with a 11tonne trailer.

I'm afraid it comes with the job. One of my guys hit something hard when mowing on a grass cutting contract once. The dammage it caused with astronomical. Bent the blade and dammaged the engine. so much force was involved the petrol cap blew off. it wrote the mower off. It was about 3 months old at the time. It was the 21" Viking 6 series so not a cheap mower by any means. Took it to the dealer saying it should of slipped but it didn't, got nowhere with them so i don't use them or Vikings anymore.

I've currently got 18-55mm on my D50 but i've just ordered myself a Nikon D90 with 18-105mm zoom with VR so i'll post back with what is like. My friend has a 70-300mm Tamron lense for his D60 (yes we're all Nikon people so i don't know that much about Cannon) they do it for the cannon but its only AF not full of image stabalising wizardry. Reasonable at £170 the stabalising one is nearly 500. My next lense to go with my 18-105 will be a 28mm fixed lense then the 70-300 tamron. But those lenses are a while away yet.

I've got one and i've had 3 before it and would get another. The balance and weight is fantastic. The bigger 357 is good too but isn't as nible but will do an 18" bar. I use a 13" bar on mine i've run 15 and 18 on it and 13 works well for me. I've done big sweet chestnuts and oaks with the 15" bar on the 346 and as long as its sharp its great. Worth considering the heated handles as they are fantastic in the winter.

I've gluded them back on seems to work fine. yay.

I have a Giant Talon 1 cost me £650 quid but its been worth every penny. Use it most days after work for a quick 6 mile cycle ride. I use to have a Talon 0 but that was stolen and couldn't bare to spent a grand on another. http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/giant-talon-1-item140463.html

BTCV hand book has a good bit in it on charcoal, the chacrocal burners handbook is good too.

yes. A branch hit the saw that snapped out of another tree while taking down a hung up. I can stick them back on with liquid steel.

Nearly that simple. Cut the bottom off the drum which you then use as the top. Make sure when you cut the top off leaving about an inch lip which the lid will sit on. Cut about 5 holes in the lid about 40-50mm wide in the lid. The bottom of drum site on a few bits of roofing tile so its about half an inch off the ground. you need to prop it un in 4 places so its stable. light a fire and get it going inbetween the 4 bits of tile. place the drum over the top it now will draw the fire up, throw in some stuff to get a good fire going. Then add the stuff you want to turn into charcoal. One the smoke changes from a yellow colour add the lid. As the smoke changes colours seal off the drum by first adding sand on one corner between bits of tile. then do the opposite one so on so forth till the kiln has a clear heat haze comming off the top. Then seal off the top slate over the holes or roof tiles then sand over the top. its now air tight and the wood will cook. Slightly more complex than i made out but trust me it is easy and you will after a few attempts get it right. worst that can happen is you burn it all up. best failure is only a partial conversion but if was just waste its still good. Some people will say use earth but that is mostly air, sand tends to fill in on its self removing air gaps. I wish i had some photos to show you all but it seems i don't have any. Thatching photos i can do just not charcoal. Still crafty though isn''t it.

I use to make charcoal in oil drums. Its no way as good as making it in a kiln but its a place to start. I did it for 4 years and got very good at judging it so good a good yield. Then firewood took off and we got more money for that than we did for charcoal. It was also much more time consuming, of course if we had a better supply of wood and a big drum kiln things may of been different. We sold a lot from our site and had a local butcher who sold our charcoal as well. Obviously its more expensive than supermarket charcoal but if you can find the market to sell it to then its all good. Think ours was 6.50 or so for local lumpwood charcoal bag. The best bit about using a small drum system is that it is just about doable in a day, there is then cooling time but if you light it about 9 you can be shutting it down by around 3 depending on what wood you've got in it. I recommend the charcoal burners handbook it gives a good guide to starting out making charcoal goes through yields how to read the kiln and how to make a good oil drum kiln. think it was about 15 quid when i got it all those years ago. For the sake of drilling some holes in an oil drum poping it up on some tiles and some sand to seal it off its worth a go. Then you'll know wether its for you. I think the real money in charcoal is in running courses.

Hi My 357xpg had a accident yesterday. Long story short the top two fins on the left of the cylinder are broken, their right hand counterparts remain intact. Will it be ok to use or will i need to by a new cylinder , which is most likely as much as a new saw. could i just tack weld them on? Thanks Andy

Silky 330 zubat. Always prefered a curved saw makes getting in akward places easier. 330mm just becuase i can. tried a few other brands and designs always coem back to the zubat

I have some Husky type As tech 20s i think. The back of the knees can unzip about 8" to let some air in. Works well been wearing them all day.

£200 quid a month!!! shocking truely shocking, boardering on criminal. Bet fuel is a killer too.

Nice. I always wanted a landy still do despite driving them every day and banging my head on the thing and being permantly cramped up. Still love em. Is it insured as a classic or otherwise the insurnce bust be a killer

Take a look at Jas P wilsons they have some s/h trailers on there. Also a good finance deal on a new 8 tonne euro trailer with farma crane.

No forester is going to cut down an Oak to make space for a Sycamore especially if its a nice tree. If they're doing a lot then surely they would have a figure in mind per hoppus foot?

My Protector Pros are great too. I seem to get a year out of each pair working on the forest floor. None of the wear in the pictures on here.

Traditionally hardwoods have always been measured in Hoppus Feet. Just a tradition. There is about 27HF to the cubic meter (from memory). However more and more everything is just given in M3.

Ring NPTC! i had a similar problem with CS32 the paper work had got lost between the trainer/college/nptc. Fortunatly i had the bit of white paper.

I'd call that cut a strap release cut. I've used it a few times on really heavy leaners. My logic for using it over a dogs tooth is the angle that the saw goes in. Sometimes when doing a dogs tooth i've had the tree go with the saw still in the final cut which can come back at you. If you do it with a release cut the saw tends to stay in the cut. Not sure i'd fancy cutting such big bits off while on spikes though.

Our kwickchip has a clevis hitch on the frame for towing a trailer. Never used it though always just chip into a grain trailer on a second tractor.

Ran a Ford Transit on a biodiesel that a friend made from recycling chip shop oils. He did all the VAT and Duty on it so we just got in 25litre drums and tipped it in. Worked fine the problem was getting the mix right for summer/winter or your have problems. Oh there was a issue with the fuel filter getting some kind of bacterial infection from the oil. It corroded the seal and it fell off on the A1(M) causing a slight breakdown.