Brushcutter

I've got one and i've had 3 before it and would get another. The balance and weight is fantastic. The bigger 357 is good too but isn't as nible but will do an 18" bar. I use a 13" bar on mine i've run 15 and 18 on it and 13 works well for me. I've done big sweet chestnuts and oaks with the 15" bar on the 346 and as long as its sharp its great. Worth considering the heated handles as they are fantastic in the winter.

I've gluded them back on seems to work fine. yay.

I have a Giant Talon 1 cost me £650 quid but its been worth every penny. Use it most days after work for a quick 6 mile cycle ride. I use to have a Talon 0 but that was stolen and couldn't bare to spent a grand on another. http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/giant-talon-1-item140463.html

BTCV hand book has a good bit in it on charcoal, the chacrocal burners handbook is good too.

yes. A branch hit the saw that snapped out of another tree while taking down a hung up. I can stick them back on with liquid steel.

Nearly that simple. Cut the bottom off the drum which you then use as the top. Make sure when you cut the top off leaving about an inch lip which the lid will sit on. Cut about 5 holes in the lid about 40-50mm wide in the lid. The bottom of drum site on a few bits of roofing tile so its about half an inch off the ground. you need to prop it un in 4 places so its stable. light a fire and get it going inbetween the 4 bits of tile. place the drum over the top it now will draw the fire up, throw in some stuff to get a good fire going. Then add the stuff you want to turn into charcoal. One the smoke changes from a yellow colour add the lid. As the smoke changes colours seal off the drum by first adding sand on one corner between bits of tile. then do the opposite one so on so forth till the kiln has a clear heat haze comming off the top. Then seal off the top slate over the holes or roof tiles then sand over the top. its now air tight and the wood will cook. Slightly more complex than i made out but trust me it is easy and you will after a few attempts get it right. worst that can happen is you burn it all up. best failure is only a partial conversion but if was just waste its still good. Some people will say use earth but that is mostly air, sand tends to fill in on its self removing air gaps. I wish i had some photos to show you all but it seems i don't have any. Thatching photos i can do just not charcoal. Still crafty though isn''t it.

I use to make charcoal in oil drums. Its no way as good as making it in a kiln but its a place to start. I did it for 4 years and got very good at judging it so good a good yield. Then firewood took off and we got more money for that than we did for charcoal. It was also much more time consuming, of course if we had a better supply of wood and a big drum kiln things may of been different. We sold a lot from our site and had a local butcher who sold our charcoal as well. Obviously its more expensive than supermarket charcoal but if you can find the market to sell it to then its all good. Think ours was 6.50 or so for local lumpwood charcoal bag. The best bit about using a small drum system is that it is just about doable in a day, there is then cooling time but if you light it about 9 you can be shutting it down by around 3 depending on what wood you've got in it. I recommend the charcoal burners handbook it gives a good guide to starting out making charcoal goes through yields how to read the kiln and how to make a good oil drum kiln. think it was about 15 quid when i got it all those years ago. For the sake of drilling some holes in an oil drum poping it up on some tiles and some sand to seal it off its worth a go. Then you'll know wether its for you. I think the real money in charcoal is in running courses.

Hi My 357xpg had a accident yesterday. Long story short the top two fins on the left of the cylinder are broken, their right hand counterparts remain intact. Will it be ok to use or will i need to by a new cylinder , which is most likely as much as a new saw. could i just tack weld them on? Thanks Andy

Silky 330 zubat. Always prefered a curved saw makes getting in akward places easier. 330mm just becuase i can. tried a few other brands and designs always coem back to the zubat

I have some Husky type As tech 20s i think. The back of the knees can unzip about 8" to let some air in. Works well been wearing them all day.

£200 quid a month!!! shocking truely shocking, boardering on criminal. Bet fuel is a killer too.

Nice. I always wanted a landy still do despite driving them every day and banging my head on the thing and being permantly cramped up. Still love em. Is it insured as a classic or otherwise the insurnce bust be a killer

Take a look at Jas P wilsons they have some s/h trailers on there. Also a good finance deal on a new 8 tonne euro trailer with farma crane.

No forester is going to cut down an Oak to make space for a Sycamore especially if its a nice tree. If they're doing a lot then surely they would have a figure in mind per hoppus foot?

My Protector Pros are great too. I seem to get a year out of each pair working on the forest floor. None of the wear in the pictures on here.

Traditionally hardwoods have always been measured in Hoppus Feet. Just a tradition. There is about 27HF to the cubic meter (from memory). However more and more everything is just given in M3.

Ring NPTC! i had a similar problem with CS32 the paper work had got lost between the trainer/college/nptc. Fortunatly i had the bit of white paper.

I'd call that cut a strap release cut. I've used it a few times on really heavy leaners. My logic for using it over a dogs tooth is the angle that the saw goes in. Sometimes when doing a dogs tooth i've had the tree go with the saw still in the final cut which can come back at you. If you do it with a release cut the saw tends to stay in the cut. Not sure i'd fancy cutting such big bits off while on spikes though.

Our kwickchip has a clevis hitch on the frame for towing a trailer. Never used it though always just chip into a grain trailer on a second tractor.

Ran a Ford Transit on a biodiesel that a friend made from recycling chip shop oils. He did all the VAT and Duty on it so we just got in 25litre drums and tipped it in. Worked fine the problem was getting the mix right for summer/winter or your have problems. Oh there was a issue with the fuel filter getting some kind of bacterial infection from the oil. It corroded the seal and it fell off on the A1(M) causing a slight breakdown.

on ours there is a little plate that comes out to put a hitch in it. Maybe Stephens has the same thing?

There is a valmet down here for about 8.5k would need guarding up but it looks ok, bet it has a lot of hours.

We got a brand new Valtra A series with full forest guarding and fore end loader for 35k from George Browns. The trailer came from Wilsons for about 6k several years ago. Thats the timber trailer on a the other valtra. Thats the new A with the front end loader. The winch is ancient Wilsons had a good reconditioned double drum for 2k plus the vat a little while ago.

I did my test when i was 22 and at 23 got my pick (D22 Navara). It was 1200 quid to insure for the first year now at 26 insurance is still 800 quid with NFU. I wanted a Landy 110 CSW but the insurance for that was over 2000 quid for a 5000 quid Landy.

Thanks guys it was the tree boat thing i was after. I thought Proclimber did them but they don't seem to anymore. I'll drop a line to Nod and see how much one would cost if he can get one.