wills-mill

It's often worth checking for 'hoists' rather than just 'winches'

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/stores/derby/ Tried Machine Mart? https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/jrh2-wire-rope-hoist/

They are both quite variable depending on growth rate and site. Doug ideally needs to be a decent size (12in+) to have some sensible heartwood, Larch is fine when a bit smaller. I prefer Doug to work with for fitting, but Larch probably has the edge on durability. I've seen some Doug recently that I milled 15 years ago and it's still bang on. This was local Doug I machined and supplied :)

[ame=https://www.amazon.co.uk/Motorcycle-Tuning-Two-Stroke-John-Robinson/dp/075061806X/ref=pd_sim_14_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Z11WVRJ58ERMS7T7H4YX]Motorcycle Tuning: Two-Stroke: Amazon.co.uk: John Robinson: 9780750618069: Books[/ame] From John Robinson and others, I'd read that more oil = leaner mix, so that would make sense. I was running on a litre of fully synth Motul 2 stroke oil recently just to use it up. What a fantastic racetrack smell

Third photo down shows the classic signs- very snake like bark (smooth surface with light fissures) and then a massive snotty band of sapwood. If it was a bit fresher you might see the orange colour in the bottom of the bark cracks as well.

Mudderpuckers

I think you need a few in dazzle paint camouflage Pete!

So was the ebay ook your one Bob?

Looks to be mainly (or all) Turkey Oak. Not a favourite for milling and fairly dreadful outside...

Probably keen. Depending on the usuals. How's that for commitment!?

If you can incorporate both jobs into one device you'll find a decent market no doubt. I've built one of each, but now just run Wood Mizer's own gadget that will do both jobs. The beds don't need to rock (rotate around the centre?), just lift at one edge.

That's certainly true. It's good for seasonal prompts for different activities and products. The local targeting is useful too.

This guy's setup is quite interesting- [ame] [/ame]

I know of 3 big Mebors working fairly locally. Big, tough saws with pretty good support from what I hear.

How about "50% of payment is made when the timber hits roadside by head measure, then the remaining 50% goes up by 10% a month until timber is cleared to mutual satisfaction or balance is paid"? The whole game is a pretty closed shop on commodity pricing and timber grading. Any of us can get a copy of Farmer's Weekly and see what peas, carrots, hill sheep are fetching, but there's no chance on timber.

Would a normal (grapple) rotator have the balls to run an auger? http://www.baltrotors.lv/index.php/grapple-rotators-gr-type/grapple-rotators-1ton-3ton-loads/3-ton-loads-gr-type-rotators/18-grapple-rotator-gr30.html

We've been here before I think J. I'm measuring the cube and doing the pricing on the sawn output after all edging and discards of sappy or structurally unsound timber, rather than an initial hoppus measure of the log. £3 to £4 works really well out on site milling customers timber. But that's when I'm not doing the log handling, crosscutting, slab, firewood and dust handling, timber stacking, trimming to length, sticking, banding.

If people want timber that's custom cut and it suits what I've got in log stock and won't cause lots of grief and waste, then I'm happy that it goes out cheap (lot less labour and wastage). If it's custom cut but means I end with loads of 3ft long log ends and a pile of spare boards with no outlet, then the price quoted tends to be higher. About half the time it works out nicely, so that there might be a few orders on the go at once that make use of the logs as they are milled, so I might be able to cut cladding or tree stakes to go along with a beam or post order. On timber that owes me very little (and is being sawn, delivered and paid for straight away) I usually stick on something like a milling cost of £6 per sawn cubic ft to the original timber price. In my current setup, yard space is the premium factor, so I'd rather get shot of stuff quickly at cost price, rather than waiting years for a financial bonanza on air dried timber. I've got some boards that I've dragged between various yard moves for 6 to 12 years now, and I don't want to be doing that as a repeating cycle.

A bit of both, safety film and a funky ole bit of country.... [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-FR3u3AGiY[/ame]

Cool

Multicar- [ame] [/ame] The Muli looks a sturdier beast- [ame] [/ame] There are also Schiltracs, similar things. Great for tinkering about in Alpine villages and hairpin bendy forest tracks, but they'd probably all be a bit horrible in UK commuter traffic.

Duckhams green snot (a 20w50 IIRC and not made any more) was the business for petrol engines that consumed oil. I had a Fiesta that drank normal multigrades and showed a bit of smoke, but was very well behaved on Duckhams green. It needs someone with half a brain and a bit of sympathy when it comes to cold starts and warm ups, it was a bit like having a sump full of golden syrup. Halfords do an equivalent- Halfords Classic Oil 20W50 5L

Teng do a decent ratchet one of those- Produktinformation I've been saved by cheapo forceps many a time, great for starting off small nuts, pulling hoses and fishing out wire ends and dropped screws.

What is so hard to understand? We live in Toytown in shoeboxes There's no space for massive gadgetry It's a waste of money unless you're hunting jobs across 150 miles These 2 are major roads- https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@51.2201622,-0.4644923,3a,75y,180h,90t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sj6R5vYoxYDTELud9UzWslg!2e0!7i13312!8i6656 https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@50.9861202,-0.6090937,3a,75y,270h,80.04t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1s82l2KjOsyoy1BJOp9Rz9gg!2e0!7i13312!8i6656 This is the space you'll get in a normal street- https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Petworth/@51.069067,-0.3670353,3a,60y,270h,90t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sgvIxWGCqUVwX4JkRTVSJTg!2e0!7i13312!8i6656!4m5!3m4!1s0x4875b3c6a146026f:0x68de8f8c84caa1d9!8m2!3d50.9867009!4d-0.6107242

If you want a seriously strong version of that colour, have a go at rubbing Oak down with wire wool and vinegar. It stinks and you'll need gloves!