wills-mill

Days tucked in quietly in the trenches, then nights out on work details repairing and rebuilding the wire obstacles. I've seen the cutters before, but that pouch is something else, very elegant and looks like you could open and close it with cold fingers or gloves. This is a humbling book that shows some of the logistics of feeding, fueling, transporting and sheltering the troops. Amazing pictures and some details of the hundreds of thousands of tonnes of woven hurdles, timber slabs, brush faggots and charcoal created to keep lines of communication open- Farming and Forestry on the Western Front - Murray Maclean

Over the water they seem to rate it very highly. Not that it will help perception of it as a timber in the UK, I think it suffers by it's association with leylandii (also a great timber). I'm fairly certain that faster grown timber won't be quite so durable as really tight mountain trees, but that's the same across the board. PORT ORFORD CEDAR : WOOD PRODUCTS AND INFORMATION : BEAR CREEK LUMBER EXTERIOR SIDING : PORT ORFORD CEDAR : TONGUE AND GROOVE " It is a particularly hard and strong cedar, with the same natural durability as other types of cedar when it comes to weather, rot and insects. Port Orford Cedar has earned a reputation for strength and decay-resistance. Historically, as the strongest of all the cedar products it has been the preferred wood for japanese architecture, building boats, railroad ties and fence posts (its heartwood has an in-ground life of 20-25 years by the Oregon State D.O.T.). Strength, durability and natural decay-resistance make POC the ideal wood for timber structures renown for its beauty and structural integrity, useful for both indoor and outdoor uses. POC is a light colored wood, allowing it to stain uniformly. It´s fine texture, straight grain, and pleasant, sweet-spicy scent, makes it an excellent choice for woodwork. Decking made from POC is not only strong, it´s safe for children. Its texture remains smooth with no raised grain or splintering, and it´s durability makes it ideal for use in high-traffic outdoor sites"

They work on the tried and trusted jabby-jabby pokey stick mechanism [ame] [/ame] There was a decent one on ebay a while back, made with the guts of a Manchester Rapidor power hacksaw.

The BAOS is a lovely machine but I wouldn't attack one with too many 6x6 beams, just a personal opinion but I think they are a polite workshop joinery machine rather than a big growler that can take heavy punishment. There are plenty of growlier machines out there for the same sort of money or cheaper. Wilson, Sagar, Cooksley, Dominion, Robinson planer thicknessers all worth a look on ebay. If you don't have 3 phase and are looking to use a variable frequency drive (VFD) to run a planer thicknesser from 240 volts, then the BAOS isn't a great choice as it has 2 electric motors (one for blades, one for feed mechanism), so it can't be run from a single VFD unit. Most other planer thicknessers only have one electric motor. If anyone wants a reasonably fast change planer knife option for a machine they have currently (without the expense of a Tersa head and fitting), then look into Barke turn blade knives. They replace the standard planer knife and are double sided disposable knives that never need alignment once the system has been initially set up. It's cut my knife changes down from 45 minutes on one of my machines down to under 5 minutes, and the knives are evil sharp and very long lasting. I got mine from Doug at Home - Cutting Solutions he's very helpful Barke-Maschinenmesser GmbH

Poor old Lawson's over here doesn't have the fashionable market that WRC has, but it's a nice timber all round. Very highly prized in the States and dearer than WRC over there!

Very tidy. Good luck with it all...

The 'reply direct' email is a basic way that scammers start a trail of communication with potential victims that is not visible to ebay. There will be all sorts of excuses why you can't come and view. If you ask for a phone number to actually talk to someone, there will be some spiel about why they can't talk. They will 'want to deliver' and you will have to pay a deposit or full price through a money wiring service or bank transfer. The scammers will not be in the UK. They do not have the item. Scam. report it and avoid. 100% a scam. EDIT: My mistake, that information was to do with the sale in May. With a sale like this I'd be tempted to keep any money in your pocket up until collection.

Bear in mind that Arbtalk is as public as an open Facebook group, and Arbtalk also carries a lot of weight with search engines... Go and google 'sawdust on car'

Despite the gnarly grain and density, it does mill really nicely and generally has very little internal stress. Yew doesn't seem to give too much grief during drying either. How about some bling level Yew decking? Kitchen floor?

Quite a few around Suffolk by the look of it. I talked to some old boys from the East Suffolk Woodturners at Weird and Wonderful Wood, but they are the one club I can't see details of online. Bury St Edmunds Woodturning Club Waveney and District Woodturners|Community Directory Welcome to West Suffolk Woodturning Club SUFFOLK WOODTURNERS,SUFFOLK MID COASTAL WOODTURNERS, COASTAL, WOODBRIDGE

It's difficult to say, but it looks like it's most discoloured around that tall, thin window. I wonder if someone has done some grinding or metal cutting in that area when the window or roof flashing went in, or whether plaster dust or cement has got on the timber. All of these can cause a colour reaction with Western Red (and tannin rich timbers like Oak). It looks to be very slow grown Canadian or American Western Red Cedar. That is pretty much guaranteed to have been shipped over as kiln dried boards. So the fresh 'milling' is likely to mean it's been recently tongue and grooved, rather than sawn green/ wet from the log.

I'll give them a ring about the carriage and rails. They are keen to reuse some of the log deck and conveyors that were with this saw, but I don't think they are ever looking to refurb the carriage. I've not found a comb jointer or similar yet. Still looking half heartedly for a single pin or a big Brookman. Hop your big move is starting to settle down. W

Sion, is that Mr D the Sagar specialist? It's Will here from the Canadian forum... I've seen a 48in Stenner carriage mill that sounds like the one you mentioned (and it came down from the Scottish East Coast) it had originally been set up in Dover and then headed north. There was a plywood shed with all the controls in it, the whole thing had loads of pneumatics, hydraulics and electrics. It's probably still sat in bits in the Sussex brambles. I can find out if it's still there if you're keen.

Have you seen the price of Norwegian hotels? That's why the fence is so dear

Weirdly enough, a rope that's good for 10 to 20 times is pretty much the same as one to be used once or a thousand times..... The suspension point on your rock climbing harness will likely make you dangle in an awkward and uncomfortable way as well. These are the usual suspects for tree gear- Harnesses and Spurs | Richmonds https://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/ https://www.honeybros.com/ The Home of Forestry Equipment & Tree Surgeon Equipment Perhaps it's time for you to create a rescue/ heavy lift quadcopter? Plenty of market around the world for folk who like parking in trees?

Hats off to you. You're a brave soul to take that on!

£30 fresh sawn sounds pretty sensible to get the slabs moving. I've not got experience of decent sized Walnut, but if the price were much higher you could be hanging on to them for a long time.

All good ideas. It'a a bit different here in the SE, not so many smaller mills or people with the farming tackle to take butts to a static mill. And no doubt more income sloshing about and people who want to carry out projects with decorative rather than purely functional timber. Even full-time sawing is not full time- I faced the same sort of problems as skc101fc and now try to make a balance of less mobile milling, and more production and supply of timber. Access, log quality, size, presentation and handling, site layout- can all make a massive difference to output. There is a real challenge to creating a fully workable cutting list from timber that is often limited in quantity, may be marginal quality and tight on sizes. There's a bit of a learning curve. For starters, you need to know about who is going to be handling the timbers that you create. It's often not the customer, so you have to know what a timber framer, landscaper, builder will be expecting to pull out of a stack.

Yew looks amazing with a bit of steel inside, it's almost worth poking nails into them just to get the colours! Controversial

Thanks Andrew. The oracle has spoken There are people tucked away milling to a surprising extent, but I doubt the volume annually would scratch the old county production. I suppose that we've 'exported' all the fencing and pallet production to mills nearer to big softwood areas, as well as losing all the turnery, mining timber, dunnage for good. Have you seen the various setups for mining timber that were engineered together here? Westtec

Does anyone know anything about Doledene saws?- did they make anything other than resaws, did they make very many, is there anyone still around who was involved or any paperwork. I believe they were made fairly locally to me, between Dorking and Guildford possibly? Openspaceman will doubtless know?

Very nice, worked a static one for long enough, will be really interesting to see how the pivot works.

The Husky 395 is a beast, but I think the 576 would also be pretty capable as a beam milling weapon

I think for your sort of timber I'd head to the SCM. When you look at the strength of the spindles, the total power available and the heft of the machine, I think it probably floors a PH360. With the amount you may have to hog off some of your rougher and more random boards to get to square and level I think you need the strength. I use a PH260 a lot (and I'm a big fan), and I know that the 360 is a fair bit tougher, but I think it's still probably a owner/operator machine for tidily sized timber. I use a disposable planer knife conversion in mine, which is fantastic- easy to change and cheap to run without having to change to full-on Tersa heads. The euro/ whitehill cutter adaptability is very useful and they are cheap if you smack into anything, but their life is quite limited when compared to full on hefty moulder heads with corrugated knives. I know there is a big jump in tooling costs, but I think on reclaimed boards (again) you need the strength, if (!) you can guarantee nail free timber going in. Even if you just did PAR work with Tersa blocks, you'd get the opportunity of finding any naughty nails before going near much more expensive knives.

The pitchfork and flaming torch posse are on their way