MattyF

550xp but back in the day the 254xp

Or dual mass fly wheel ...1969 is an old mog !

People make the massive mistake of still trying to thrust and lock like on a prussik , hitch climber arm over arm method is completely different and like pete says allows you to rest arms in that position.

Try not too , it annoys me when you hear a saw running out of fuel and the operator is trying to get that last little bit out of it for the reasons pete says.

Most of the what was on the loads was this though, there's still some to pick out that's not got bad shake but hope fully got some decent saw logs for the mill but that's good to know thanks J .

Just paid £45 a tonne for oak and mixed hard woods amongst them was some decent oak we have separated and won't put through the processor, the seller was debating putting a parcel together of decent timber together but I mentioned it on here and no one seemed interested so like most things it's a buyers market @£45 a tonne its reasonable if your buying the lot ! Not separated I recon ,

No it won't ...The crank case is expensive to buy by itself but you can buy a whole new short block for £170 from your husky dealer for the 560... So that includes bearings seals crank and cases.

Around 10 years ago I changed from a prussik to VT hitch climber set up after a previous 10 or so years on just a prussik , had tried the VT and all the fancy hitches before at shows and dismissed them as fancy stuff for benders , decided one day that on Monday I would stick with the VT and pulley for a week and it was the best decision I've made in my career for speeding up and making it more efficient to saving wear on my body from thrusting arm over arm and not like you do on a prussik , it helped I was climbing the first tree with another climber who had mastered the VT as it gave me some confidence... Since then I've looked at new techniques and kit different.. Or tried too ie like pulley savers are a god send once you have got used to having no friction!! SRT is a strange one but even for access on big trees it's worth getting a pantin and bodging up a home made haas if you don't feel confident working off a single line, for me it took one climb to get used to a VT and about 1 week for SRT. Had to do arial rescue refresher on a prussik the other day and thought I would show the newbies how to body thrust , got to the branch all right although a bit out of breath but the prussik binder and slipped it's really an awful knot and frustrating when you see people struggling with it... It's a shame that there are so many good experienced tree climbers out there who if they just took the chance on changing there game plan and having a serious look at even a hitch climber set up would realise how much an edge shiney stuff can give you but you need to give it more than a rec climb.. Pretty sure that won't change any ones opinions as I know how stubborn vet tree climbers can be.. I still doubt I'll never climb on any thing other than a hitch though.

Yeh and that bit !!

Go in with an open mind bud it was only the opening credits that were dog shite ... Interesting views and techniques , thanks for sharing .... 262'xps on handle bars !!

I thought that may be the case Steve ... It's for the 395 , my last experience of buying a non OEM part for that saw was a clutch that didn't fit! There was an OEM coil on eBay but it was state side.

What are people's experiences with non OEM ignition coils? I've just ordered one for a saw I need by Friday and now slightly worried....

Great work, would love to see a few more pics of it.

Is it dead or alive joe?? It makes a massive difference in weight with this species... If it was alive or dying I would certainly consider the flat bed crane lorry .... Or any crane for that matter.

Ghillie in the highlands.

Box it up and send it too spud.

Totally agree

http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/271976367362 Same company .. I think.

Yeah mate, it's growing on me and I'm manning up a bit with that extra 2g at full arms length on those reductions!

I get that mate , Problem is for saw operators if it's been drummed in not to waste timber and keep stumps low it's hard not to do it in urban work or other environments .

I've seen some of the RC lowering devices with out the Stein logo on eBay as well, not good.

Getting paid by the tonne ,all timber to be removed from site and no high stumps ,it takes about a minute to make those cuts with a 560 on a 15"bar.... Also makes rolling the tree Easy when snedding and like I said it annoys the forwarder driver when his load has big gaps in because of flares... Tbh though a lot of the larger trees on that site we dressed the timber when it was on the deck.

Removed toes also make nice jacking points for those hairy Spruce that need pushing through , also means you can get wedges in further. And keeps the forwarder driver happy so he does not have gaps in his bunk. Leave them for compromised trees definitely though , I learnt that the hard way when I had a big elm collapse on a saw bending the bar and leaving me in a situation you don't really want to be in!

If you just need bearings though I have a spare set.. Went to buy a new crank case as mine was an early 5 bolt one that had leaked and stripped bolts and it was cheaper to buy the whole short block than the crank case.

Pete you can pick up a bottom end short block consisting of new crank and case crank and bearings ready to go for £170. If that's of any use...