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MattyF

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Everything posted by MattyF

  1. My only advice is don't give up being a sparky.. the money's **** in this game and if your going to do it commercially the working span of a climber is average 5 years and it will take you 2 to know your trade at least , the novelty of being out doors very quickly wears off in bad weather , I'm not saying if your hearts set don't give it a go but I would give it a bit more thought, on the flip side it is a great job, you get to scare your self most weeks usually on a failing ancient relic and vandalise it with a chain saw with other like minded idiots in some times stunning locations and I could not do anything else but it takes a weird sense of Maybe really self hatred to do it at times.
  2. Agree I know some one who brought 4 tickets and won 2 prizes I brought about 75 if I remember that year in batches of 25 and won two prizes as well .. it's just pure chance. Either way you got to be in it to win it.
  3. This is what I use ,it's like a Hobbs but a bit easier to set up and use as you can have more extreme rope angles going in to the drum. It's no gcrs in terms of lifting speed but lifts and lowers whilst not being to over complicated. http://shop.freeworker.com/special-winch.html Also a 3001 for jobs where no pretensioning is necessary and a Portawrap for light rigging.
  4. Nice work Sam , what's the tune ?
  5. If you have a reel of 3/8 chain it covers all your saws .. you don't have to order another £300 reel of chain just for one saw.
  6. You don't cut past the pollard bowl if repollarding ,tell him to read the British standards 3998 for tree work that may throw him a bit... never read them but I pressume pollarding is in there.
  7. Always had singles, amazing what you can fit in a chipper hopper or burry in chip. Even the tool locker on our single cab takes to much space up and barely gets used any way.
  8. The husky technicals are definitely cooler up trees but I think the lack of tick guards means you get a breeze up your strides ! Not a bad trouser though and honeys bros did have them at a good price. I do like the pfanners but the price is getting hard to justify.
  9. Not much help now but I would say the bark necrosis is related to the shocking pruning that tree has had in the past, Rowan really don't tolerate being hat racked.
  10. Cheers Sy 👍🏻
  11. Hi Iana ,Drill bit , rods and the eye bolts all came from tree stuff , unfortunately no one in the uk seems to sell invasive supplies any more !! Cheers ,mat.
  12. Reduced and braced up beech After Crown brace Three rods through the base Drill picked up lots of decay around the bottom brace , not holding my breath it won't shatter in the next storm but it's a better option than completely mutilating with a heavy reduction or felling.
  13. Any one got links to the small sprocket?
  14. After you have sharpened a damaged chain some times it appears to stretch again after sharpening I've often wondered what causes this?
  15. It looked a swift sweet job mate , nice work.👍🏻
  16. Nice vid Jesse how many picks and what do you recon the time scale of the job was ?
  17. Definitely needs milking ... That's really strange though as my new cougar hasn't milked at all on the akimbo but my first did badly on the Bull dog bone, I think it's just the nature of these mechanical devices that they really squeeze the rope so if the rope outer sleeve needs milking it will show up straight away. I left my htp up in a tree last night to see how the akimbo would perform, unfortunately i chose the end that's still slightly milking to climb on so could not really tell if being wet made much difference.. to be honest I felt like taking the rope back to gustharts it's performance feels that frustrating with the lumps all over it but after cutting the ends off I don't think they would have it.
  18. Undo screw and slide it out as stubby says , may help it run cooler. Another thing I find is when you feel it's running out of fuel turn it off.. if it's sucking up vapour that can have an effect on its tuning. Then there is the three -five minute retune of holding the saw flat out not letting off in bar deep timber cutting rings this resets the auto tune and saves you a trip to the dealers. Some of those things may sound a faff but I think the auto tune performance is unreal, I've been final thinning in hard wood stands and was a rack ahead by lunch thinking I though I was just working faster than my colleague ...But we swapped saws for his was a 357 by the end of the day he had virtually caught up with the 560.
  19. Another thing I've found husky UK infinitely better to deal with than Stihl uk , the problem is you have to get past the main desk ! I think they obviously get lots of calls from irate users and won't put you through.. it's quite easy to get through to Stihl and be patronised to the point you will vow never to buy one of there machines again ....get chatting at the next show as they have gone out of the way to help me.
  20. Don't use the auto tunes blunt myself as it does mess up the tuning .. 550 is a strange one I like mine but it can be difficult saw some times but I would not want a Stihl though. Have you ditched the spark arrester and use the primer,Quite regularly I just pull it over with one hand and flat down on the trigger if it does the hot start thing.. then once it's going she behaves fine.!
  21. Just like the reach of the recoil , it's better on a 540 .. you can put the 150 non trigger handle straight on the carry tool but you end up sitting on the bar.i quite like chuckin it up and catching the strop its light enough and it makes you look a tree ninja.
  22. Saw strop with a ring works for me, the recoil with a krab in though is my 150 favourite.
  23. I know a few of the trickiest reductions I've done has been going over my old work ! I think it's once you drop out that anchor it leaves you in a worse position for next time as well ... but of course species dependant.... beech a nightmare , horse-chestnut a breeze ? Springs to mind.

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