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18 stoner

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Everything posted by 18 stoner

  1. I was at the local saw shop yesterday and word has it nothing happening before September now! I think on the back of this, a wee 150 has gone onto the shopping list for a couple of weeks time. I think having a wee one in the saw box for pruning jobs will hopefully prolong the life of the 200s. Lets just hope the 540 comes along this decade sometime as I may end up retired before its in production at this rate! Lol!
  2. Are you sure you have not had problems with him before? If not, why call him the "Cupid Stunt"? Hardly shows a mature and easy going relationship from your part when you introduce him to us with a tag like that. I feel there is a little more to this story, or possibly you are just as antagonistic as him:confused1: P.S. On the legal front, you can run a business from home, store kit there etc, but not operate as Treequip pointed out. Only limitations are if there's anything in your deeds/rental agreement stating otherwise about parking commercial trucks etc. I personally would avoid cutting your own wood at home, and keep the revving of saws to an absolute minimum. Doing this will draw attention from any neighbour and get the council on your back.
  3. Got any pics of the hinge and stump Tom? Just so we can pull it to bits of course, as I'm sure you're aware us "arb types" never fell low enough:001_rolleyes:
  4. Here you go, I think this is the type you were thinking of, top of the page on this link; Friction Management Devices | SherrillTree.com http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Friction-Management/Leather-Cambium-Friction-Saver
  5. Dr Steve, the origionals were cambium savers. These were a leather tube that the rope ran through over the anchor point and protected the cambium. With some fiddling these can be installed from the ground. Practical side was they dont reduce friction, but save the tree. I believe years ago Sherrills used to do them, but not sure if they are still stocked. The more modern approach is a friction saver. These are usually fabric with two rings. Many, many other variations have sprung up from this over the years, all having varying designs, costs and obviously differing personal opinions of them. These "friction savers" also protect the cambium and are of greater benefit to the climber(on the friction side of things).
  6. I have a "standard" sequoia, and I must ask, with yours having that rigging plate on it, does it not pendulum straight into your nuts if you stand up on a branch? Guess it will depend on the length of swing (both the plate and your nuts) but it does look like it could catch you unawares:scared1:
  7. Looking very tidy there. Nice finish. Just curious, but did you leave the baffles in as they're still visible in first pic?
  8. I think you are missing the point! I'm not into arguing with you, Im asking why you feel putting skip, or semi on a saw will push it too much. The whole idea of it is to enable a smaller saws to run bigger bars.
  9. Why? They are available here! I actually said a few anyhow, but even a "couple" will keep him going a good while, especially as its "occasional" Have you ever used skip on big bars? The whole idea of using it is to not "push the saw to its limits"!
  10. But he wants it for occasional use on softwood:confused1: Running a 28" bar on skip is actually easier on the saw than running 20" full comp chain, so will not over do that saw.
  11. I actually read the above, and therefore a new saw, yes, the 365 will pull 28" in softwood occasionally. Just make sure your mate buys a few loops of either semi skip, or better still, full skip chain. It will also be an awsome saw for general use too, with a smaller bar say 18".
  12. Is this really worth considering? If it were for a rare saw or unavailable that could only be found overseas, wel maybe. Given the hassle, extra time sorting it, potential issues and simply the comparison of walking into your own dealer and putting a smile on his face, way outway the £80 saving IMO.
  13. Yep, and its gutless in comparison. Only reason I tried one is because the carb on my 192 went west. As a result of the demo, I'll be spending money rebuilding the 192.
  14. I did have a '98 150 Pete. Does "did have" qualify? I'll see if I can dig out some pics anyhow.
  15. A 192t would wipe the floor with ALL the above mentioned If you look really hard, you may still find a few new ones in Europe.
  16. Very true, but a £300 husky aint worth a jot in comarison though:blushing:
  17. At two years for pro then, its still damn good!
  18. Not sure if things have changed, but the reason for a Q plate as a result of structural alterations, used to be run from a points system. A vehicle was given a total of (I think) 15 points. These were made up in differing amounts from major parts, like drivetrain, axles, suspension, chassis etc. If any of these major parts were replaced by none spec ones, i.e, modified, that amount of points was taken from the total. If this total came below (again, going from memory:blushing:) around 10 points, it had to go onto a Q plate. In this case, even if the chassis was classed as none standard, it would likely to have lost 3 or 4 points, therefore would not need the Q.
  19. No worries, let me know. As said you'll get much more tractor for your money if you avoid mf & ford.
  20. If you are seriously interested I can enquire a little more. Some google images here of model 414 but there are other smaller ones in the collection. All are fully working, some in show condition. international 414 - Google Search
  21. I do know of a collection of International McCormicks coming up for sale. These are to be sold individually. 6 in total but possibly not all to be sold but most of them.
  22. Do you definately want a fergy?
  23. Put your rates up. Believe me, it will cure all your problems.

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